I did some practicing soldering, not as easy as it sounds but I'll keep practicing until I've got it down. (maybe I need a better iron?) Now I need to know how to and where to tap into the wires. (I'm color blind but I can count) Do I cut them and do a 3 way connection or strip the wires without cutting and solder the new wire in? How close to the plug? Is there an easier way? Do you need to power up the O2 sensor before screwing it into the down pipe? As you can tell I'm nervous about doing this myself ...... but I want to do it myself. I found some info with the search, but if someone is willing to tell me how to do it in the most elementary way .... I'll give you my peanut and jelly sandwich! JK, but any advice ..... better yet, first hand success would really calm me down.

Les

 

Down boy....pm Rudy or Rob...the masters....promise them some beach time....lol....and pretty girls for Rudy, Rob already has one of those...lol...so that won't work on him...but beach time might...

 

I happen to know both of these men can be swayed by booze as well

You guys have some amazing rum down there

 

Set up a day when you can call me and I will walk you through it. It's actually very simple just a matter of getting yourself comfortable with the components and wires your connecting. If you don't want to solder you can use various butt connectors. Get a good wire splicer and quality crimping tool. Radio Shack sells a battery operated soldering iron for like 15 bucks that works very well. Also buy a variety pack of heat shrink tubing. This will make everything look good. PM me

 

Guess what I did today? Yup, after soldering everything that needed it in the house in the name of practice, I felt competent to do the zeitronix instal. And after bugging Rob for a few days, sending photos of wires and other foolish stuff. First I ran the data wire into the interior. I thought that would be easy. Wasn't easy, if I had to do it again it would be. I had to take out the ECU to be able to thread it into the cabin. Next I took the plug for the O2 sensor out of the downpipe. I tried to do it from underneath the car but it was impossible. I had to do it from the top. I loosened the heat shield and ran the cable behind the shield, zip tied the extra and ran it into the fuse box. The last thing I did was the soldering. I put a small piece of wood under the victim wires to avoid burning adjacent innocents. It was a piece of cake but took me a long time. Thank goodness it's over and done and working. Now I'm looking into custom skins for the Dashdaq. Presently I have the AFR's showing in nice big numbers. I never did figure out how to disconnect the wires from the BCM. So no shrink wrap, just electrical tape.

On a side note, I believe the Crossfire front A arm bushings are the same as the R170 chassis which are the same for 34 different Mercedes models. Mine are shot and I need some asap. Anyone know for sure?

Les

 

good for you Les....and found your handling problem as well.....that's my next big purchase after the LSD's are installed...I'd PM 32Krazy...he's up on that stuff...

 

I feel your pain ! I was really leery of soldering wires into the existing harness, but Rob from needswings went over and above, and replied to my constant **** e-mails, so I was able to get it done. When adding the needswings/waldig fueling fix, installing the zeitronix is about half of the job, but now it's done, no more lean issues !

 

your right on the money les. the bcm is a pain to get the wires out. per rudy strip the coating and solder it in then tape it up. the ecu pins can be removed and heat shrink used.

a arm bushings the same. r170 i actually have a set from my old 32 that i never installed. guess ill save them for the new 32 when it needs them.
did you drill the y pipe for a sensor for boost? woody has an interesting post about false boost readings due to perssure and the difference from the manis to the y pipe. same can be said for the fuel pressure reading at the end of the rail. glad to see your able to data log now!

 

I purchased the A-arm bushings today at the local Mercedes stealership. Ouch! The instal will be satur..... I'd better call the shop. I've been data logging for a while but without the AFR's. I wish I had logged the AFR's pre tune to know what's was normal. What I'm seeing has me -------- in my pants! I'm breaking out the depends! I emailed Jerry today and he recommended a change. I'm waiting to see when we can schedule a retune.

I only soldered the wires necessary for the AFR's. The EGT's and boost are a future project. I read boost with the dashdaq from the OBDII port. (17 lbs. max with a Code3)

All you owners out there that think you want a tune in the future. Get a wide bank installed now! That way you have experience and knowledge pre tune. You'll sleep better.

Les

 

that's my biggest fear Les...got to get the rearend done first...then off to see Rob...for a Zeitronics...

 

"I only soldered the wires necessary for the AFR's. The EGT's and boost are a future project. I read boost with the dashdaq from the OBDII port. (17 lbs. max with a Code3)"

what?!?!?!?!?
get back in there and connect boost, egt, rpm and tps, you will get MUCH better sample rates (and have an accurate boost gauge) and it will open up more peramters for the dashdaq to get with a decent sample rate. watch speed, timing, iat and ect on the dashdaq.

you can record perameters that are not displayed so you have use a skin with nice big numbers for the perameters you want to see at a glance while racing. if ya havent figured that out let me know and ill pull up the instructions.

 

The booming voice from the north .... back to soldering wires. Uhh, Rob, I don't have an egt sensor or boost sensor. I have the egt bung! So much for my propensity for taking baby steps. I guess if your getting on the horse you may as well ride it.

Les

 

ok, well at least get rpm and tps wired in

 

les you can tap and thread a sensor into the mani or the y pipe under the s/c. thats were i tapped mine. used a drill bit to make the hole then pipe tap for the sensor. nice fit out of the way and close to the ecu box for wiring in

 

I found the egt probe on the zietronix website and plan to get one. Question, why do I need a boost sensor? I have what I have and don't plan on looking for more. After reading Rob's disbelief that I left a few wires without connecting them, I'm going to finish the job before the week is out. The motivation for all this is my Eurocharged tune. I'm hoping for another reflash before my next race, or I'm skipping it. My first tune was richer than stock and I lost power and was slower. The current one is way too lean, at least to me. I'm hoping to go back to the rich tune, or stock, data logging at the track so they can construct a tune for me that is safe and makes more power than the factory tune. If it takes some time to get it right, I'm fine with it and so far they've been willing to work with me. Unfortunately they seem to be out of town again.

Les

 

boost loggs in relation to the lean conditions les. also i found i was pushing more boost than thought. i was told c3 peaked at 17 psi but have logged 19 psi. it was also inc. when i bought the setup from 240srtm3. same with my fuel pressure sensor. more parameters you can log the more info the tuners have

 

If it will help them get my tune better I'll do it asap. My dashdaq logs 17 PSI at redline. The most I've ever seen is 17.9. The current tune is richer at redline than 4500, 5000 or 5500 rpm so it's not boost related. You point is well taken. More info, easier and quicker to nail the tune.

Les