I have read all posts for this problem. I followed the instructions on the PDF. Did the procedure 4 times with same results. Key turns fine and I have electrical power, steering wheel turns put engine won't turn on. Please help me, I feel like I'm so close to fixing, just can't figure out what I'm missing. I'm putting key in at position 1.

 

By "engine won't turn on", do you mean the dash lights up, but when you turn the key to start nothing happens ?
If so, search "Mystery no start" here on the forum, may just need to re-solder the RCM module.

 

Correct. Engine does not turn over. I have already read the post your referring to. Car ran just fine before key got stuck. I'm guessing it's the switch assembly. I read that if you connect the bottom half of switch assembly to main switch assembly you can start your car without key. (Keep in mind this is with key/ignition assembly removed from car). Is this true? If so, how is it done? If I could try this out first it would save time before going under hood.

 

Ok,NO. The SKREEM has to read the RFID chip in the key in order for the car to start. You can't start one of these cars without the key, period.


NOW, you say "engine wont turn over" - unfortunately, with how people communicate these days, that tells us nothing. Le'ts put this is SIMPLE TERMS. You say the car was fine before the key got stuck and now it is not fine. Le'ts make sense of this. Choose your problem and answer below:

• You put the key in the ignition, turn the key to "START" and the dash lights up but the starter will not engage. ---- Ready the "Mystery No Start" thread and get the RCM fixed. Now, it makes little sense that fixing the stick key would cause this but whatever....

• You put the key in the ignition, turn the key to "START" and the starter engages and turns the engine over. It 'tries' to start, but dies. It does this three times and then it won't engage the starter at all. ----- THIS ONE MAKES SENSE. This is a sign the SKREEM can't read the chip in the key, so the SKREEM does the "Three cranks and nothing" thing to signal you that the SKREEM is having a problem. The MOST OFTEN way this is caused is that the wires to that black ring around the ignition switch have come unplugged from the SKREEM, so the SKREEM can't "READ" the RFID chip in the key. This CAN happen, it has happened a few times. Take hte bottom of the dash apart again and try to determine that the wires to that ring have not come unplugged from the SKREEM. Sadly, the SKREEM is up behind the damn speedometer.

 

No three turnovers, so the SKREEM is out I would I would say.
So how about the interlock on the ignition switch?

 

To make a long, long story short, I screwed up. Don't even ask me why. You'll figure it out soon enough. My question is; Ignition switch... need to replace because I permanently locked it.Now... will a new switch work with old lock assembly? Or more likely do I need to replace whole lock cylinder housing as well as getting a new key and tumbler? Can you mix old and new parts dealing with the lock cylinder and ignition switch? Everything works fine until I get to ignition switch.

 

I believe I have permanently locked the ignition switch. Screwed up big time. Question: Can a new ignition switch work with existing lock cylinder? Or do I need to get whole new lock cylinder housing plus new key and tumbler? Everything works fine until I try to turn key from position "1" to position "2" (start).

 

Are you saying you cannot turn the key to all positions?

You think you messed something up with the tumblers?

If this is an automatic is the interlock cable plugged into the switch assy. properly and is the shift lever in park? If the key is in the run position see if you can shift to neutral.

 

Sit back and take a deep breath. Go through the PDF and see that you have attached everything as it should be attached. If necessary do the taking apart and reassembly process again.
I cannot see how you could fail in this.
Just make sure that the Halo around the ignition keyhole does not get pulled on, this could unplug it at the other end by mistake. This is not your problem right now, I go with my earlier comment about the interlock cable.

 

I have done the procedure at least five times, same results. I messed with the ignition switch in the beginning of this project ( which was a huge no-no!!). Please don't scold. So, can anyone answer my questions from my last post? Would be extremely grateful.

 

we are trying to, I posted about the shift lever and what positions the key can be turned to. Knowing those will help us help you.

 

Car is manual. As I said before, I can turn key to position "1", dash lights come on, lights come on, security ding comes on, power windows work, door locks work, electrical is fine. Can put car in "D", "R", "P". Steering wheel turns. When turning key from position "1" to position "2" nothing happens. Turn key back to position "1" and then to position "2" it feels like it freezes up. Put my foot on brake to start car same as above, turn steering wheel, same as above.

 

First sentence says car is manual then you reference P, R, D, which is it?

 

Oops, apologize. Automatic.

 

He puts foot on brake? If it's a manual the clutch pedal should be pressed.

 

I meant automatic. Apologize.

 

I may have a different car in mind here, but if you go to start position and then back to run without turning key off, it will not go to start again. You must turn key off to allow it to go to start again. If my car wasn't in a cold garage with a cover over it, I would go and try it.


James

 

OK, this tells us the tumblers ARE fine AND the gearshift interlock is connected properly so we can eliminate that.

Did we establish you did put the antenna ring around the tumblers and that the wire didn't pull out of the SKREEM module on the other end?

Could you have blown a fuse to something while working on the car? Did you check them or was the battery disconnected during the disassembly reassembly process?

^^^^^ James could be onto something, I cannot test mine either.

 

Had a friend come by today to help. At the conclusion we established the ignition switch- o.k., lock cylinder housing- o.k. Ignition harness- o.k., SKREEM- o.k., antenna ring- o.k. Fuses- o.k. How do I know?, connected everything EXCEPT the key/ tumbler. Set antennae ring in ashtray then rested key inside of ring, took screw driver and turned the cylinder housing. Car started right up! No problem. BUT... WHEN PUTTING THE TUMBLER BACK IN CYLINDER ( CORRECTLY ) as well as black locking cap and antenna ring ( sits at 12 o' clock ) no pinched wires,turn key to position "1" everything fine, turn to "2", start, nothing, same as before. Can't figure out what's wrong with tumbler. At least I did process of elimination and narrowed it down. I guess I just figured out how to hot wire a car!! It sure was nice to hear car start up I love the sound, sure did miss it! Will go to dealership this week with tumbler/key and see about new one. Do you guys recommend Mercedes dealer or Chrysler? By the sounds of a lot of posts I have read lately it seems Mercedes came up on top. Anyone agree??

 

I have found corresponding parts from Mercedes where cheaper. If you go to Chrysler 1st, be ready for sticker shock, well really parts shock. If you know part you need go look on Ebay, I had a sticky ignition and after much trial and tribulation saved at least $700 on a whole new ignition system. Brand new from Mercedes Benz. But if you go that route save the old key cylinder, so you can use your old key and fob. If you use new key, just more head aches.