Update! The wheels fit fine. They just needed shorter bolts.

Thanks!

 

Check your inner tire and wheel weight clearance, likely on the left side.

 

Ok Great! Thank you for the help!

 

The "clicking/ticking" sound you are hearing is from the rear bolts being too long and catching the e-brake mechanism inside the hat of the rear wheel. Remove your rear bolts and grind the tips down a few mm's.

Also, pull your fronts off and look at the inside edge of each tire. The most critical clearance locations are where the top of the A frame bolts to the chassis. the bolt can dig into the edge of the tire and slice it... There are also quite a few body work screws inside each wheel well that will do some serious "slice & dice".

Once you do that, re-install all the wheels, fill the car with gas completely and put the heaviest person you can find in the front passenger seat, then take it for a drive, corners at good speed...

Most of your tire rub, if occurring, will happen on the fronts... Remove the front tires again and look for rub spots under the wheel well...

Good luck.

 

Great advice!

 

Like I said, the most critical clearance point is the bolt at the top of the A frame... If you are not clearing this, you will need spacers to move the wheel outboard. Use the smallest wheel spacer possible, because you might cause rubbing on the outboard edge of the tire that wasn't previously there... Especially important are the tips of the body panel screws that protrude into the wheel well, they are all over the place... Just to be safe, I would take a hand grinder and knock all of these down to short stubs. Also, as you move the tire outboard with spacers, you run the risk when turning and compressing the front suspension, of the tire rubbing along the knife edge of the fender lip... If this is happening, have the fender lips rolled under with a machine... All of these things I recommended are common practice for a shop who specializes in aftermarket wheels and tires...

There are built-in rub spots (flat spots) designed into the front wheel well where even the OEM tires/wheels rubbed slightly on the car. There are photos of these spots in previous posts from a few years ago... These spots are nothing to worry about if you see slight rubbing there...

Good luck...

 

yea, the bolts are too long, i had the same clicking noise trouble with my giovannas, just cut the bolt down 1/4 inch, or order some a little shorter. that will definitely fix you up. i also went with the 19x8.5 on the fronts, i have a very minor, friendly rub when i cut the wheel totally one way or another, mostly when parking. no extra wear on the tire though and the contact spot is right on a smooth plastic wheel well area, i frequently inspect them to make sure there's no safety issues.

 

CCW just sent me some shorter bolts to fix the problem.

 

Check out the pics of the wheels!!!!

Here are the pics...

 

Grind down the rear bolts only... That's where the e-brake mechanism is...

As far as your front tires, if you are feeling the "A FRAME" bolt touching the inside edge of the tire, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR ! It will chew through the inner side wall and destroy your front tires... Remember that when you turn, the tires flex inwards and outwards... So if it's touching at a stand still, it's digging in when you're turning...

You should have a 5-7 mm gap between that "A FRAME" bolt and the inside edge of your tire unless you drive in a straight line all the time ... Just take the car to a professional tire shop that specializes in aftermarket wheels & tires...

 

I really like the way those look. I always like the double spoke star, and they are not overly chrome. Nice choice!

 

Thanks! The wheels are not chrome but polished. BTW the guys from CCW said this is the first crossfire they have done the wheels for. They usually do corvettes and porches.

 

Actually, any tire flex that occurs is going to be at/near the contact patch, not up at the top. I think it's possible you'd be fine if you had a 1mm gap at that bolt when parked. I autocrossed stock front wheels with 245/35's...no spacers...the gap was tiny (not 1mm, but less than 5), but that bolt never touched the inboard shoulder of the tire.

 

get rid of the stubby leaving as much of it in tact as possible, do not grind it to the point where all that is left is the nut as you need a few threads remaining at the end for safety reasons and to make it possible to reinstall this ball joint at a later time if it ever needs to be taken apart.

the part that has no threads is just the guide for the ball joint and can be removed. do not use a grinder if you are going to go at it full speed and allow the ball joint to heat up excessively ... use a hand file if you do not feel confident. this is just basic tech safety to never heat suspension components...

 

But did you do it on 19x8.5" wheels in the front ? I think not !!! Before you start telling this guy what you did on your set-up and what worked for you, I would suggest that you read the information that is relevant, before you post your inane comments... Of course, we can all run 245/35 on a 17" wheel, or an offset that is 10mm more than the OEM 18" wheel...

Some people **** ME OFF !!!

This member is having problems with tire rub and ticking from too long of rear bolts and your only comment is that you ran 245/35's... no spacers... on OEM wheels... WHOOPTI SH*T... He has custom wheels that are an inch taller and an inch wider than your OEM wheels and he is having problems with them... Most of us are here to try to help other members, not give them BS information...

SOME PEOPLE REALLY **** ME OFF !!!

 

And some people take themselves a bit too seriously.

You said that 5-7mm of clearance was needed because of the way the tire moves when turning. I disagree. I don't believe there will be that much tire deflection at the top of the tire where that bolt is. It's that simple. My only point was that he might not need a full 5-7mm. I ran a setup with a gap less than that, was worried about rubbing, and didn't get any (despite doing the furthest thing from driving in a straight line). I was not trying to tell him he didn't have a problem now, I was trying to point out that he might not have to get as big a gap as you were suggesting. If you'd like to disagree with that, feel free, but do it like a man, not a whining 3 year old who is not getting his way.

 

Thanks for all the info guys and please do not fight...everyone has been more then helpful!

 

i only needed to shorten the rear bolts, i'm using the H&R 25 mm spacer and aftermarket bolts.

 

Same here. Did I miss something? What the hell happened to this thread?