Overview
I wanted to lower the Crossfire on a budget, and what better way to do it than to cut the stock springs! Now, this is not the same for all vehicles. (And indeed should not be done to any other car without first finding out some specs). SO, it turns out that the Eibach springs have the same lbs rate than the stock ones, just that it has one less coil. This mean that if we cut the stock springs one coil, they will be the same as if we had Eibach springs.

Installation
Installation took about 3 hours for both rear sides by myself. It is straightforward, and it could be completed in about 1 1/2 hrs if you have someone to help you.
- Raise the car (take off wheels).
- Take off the two bolts near the center of the car that hold the lower a-arm plastic cover (they are 10mm) - and take the cover off.
- There are three bolts near the disc brake (two are silver and the middle one bronze/gold) which you need to take off. If you lower/raise the a-arm by placing a jack under it it will be really easy to take tension off the bolts to take them off - they all have different positions at which tension is off of them so you need to play with the jack.
- After that simply pull the lower a-arm down and pry the spring out.
- To cut from the bottom I had to take it to a mechanic with a table saw so he could cut it (my dremel didn't work, the blade totally broke off)... THESE SPRINGS ARE MADE OF TITANIUM OR SOMETHING! THEY ARE HARD TO BRAKE!
- Reinstall everything in the reverse order.

Review
I have had this mod for about 5 days and it is awesome! It lowered the car enough to give it a good look and stiffened the suspension just enough. Body roll is reduced about 80% and the looks are just awesome.
Now, I will get to lowering the front the same way, BUT if you just want to lower the rear don't cut a full coil, maybe 3/4ths and that will be more than enough to level it (<- If I did this again, I would do it like this and not even touch the fronts = less work).
If you have a spare weekend, some jacks, and beer I would definitely recommend doing this as it is free (or $10 for someone having to cut the springs like in my case) and it gives the car a MUCH sportier feeling as well as looks.
RECOMMENDED! IT HANDLES A LOT BETTER! (And remember, this is just the rear done. when the front gets done I will post a new thread with observations on it).

Notes
- The rear is a tad bit lower than the front, like I said if i weren't lowering the front I would only cut the rear 3/4th of a spring to level it.
- The suspension IS stiffer, but a good stiffer. I used to have a Honda S2000 with full coilovers so to me this is nothing. I actually love having no body roll now.
- It doesn't rub with stock wheels and tires (not even close to rubbing).
- PLEASE align the spring pad on top of it when putting the spring back in, other wise bad things could happen. Also, cut the spring from the bottom, not the top!

Level of Difficulty - *** out of ***
Time to Complete- 3 hours (by myself)

Next - Lowering the Front through the same process... I will keep you guys posted.


Tito @ TR-Performance
www.tr-performance.com

 

Looks nice!

Any idea if the SRT vs SRT Eibachs are the same spring rate?

I'm not really sure if I want to cut the stockers (in case I ever decide to go back to stock), but it would be good info to know.

SQ

 

One thing you might want to consider...Most springs have a factory coating to prevent corrosion of the spring...even on the ends.

You might want to coat the bare metal with a rust preventer (like POR15) and then paint it.

 

I like the look and it is nice to hear from someone who jumps in and does his own.

John

 

That's what I plan on doing to my SRT this weekend.

I plan on cutting 1/2 coil on all four and installing the 5MM pads that I purchased from MB. I am not sure of the thickness of factory pads so I figure if a 1/2 coil too much, I can raise it back up using the old pads or purchase some thicker ones.

I don't want to go too low. I love the ride but not the look so I hope to find middle ground.My understanding from past posts, The SRT has a stiffer spring rate then Eibach and Eibach's are stiffer then the Base/Limited touring springs.

 

This is exactly how I lowered mine a couple of weeks ago. I cut one coil off each spring. I found the rears to be very easy and I never want to see the front suspension again as long as I live. The car rides great and handles better. Before bumps seemed to unsettle the car, now it just feels very planted at all times.

 

please let us know how this goes as I am in the same situation as you...

 

sounds easy and i would like to do it to mine but the 3/4 not a whole coil... but i'm a little scared i might do something wrong and have a wheel pop off or something...
anything i should keep in mind as i do this (when i get the courage)...

 

I can't imagine cutting the spring with a Dremel. I used a Dewalt hand held grinder with a 4 inch cutting blade. This looks like a giant dremel but cut the spring like butter. No matter how much you cut make sure you take out the upper spring pad and get the coil seated properly. If you are cutting less than one coil you will have to rotate the upper spring pad to match the top of the spring.

 

Awesome! I'm very interested in seeing pictures of your SRT6 after lowering the back. I'd about what kind of change to expect in handling and tire wear (camber).

 

so if i want to get an even height all around i need to cut 3/4 but what do you mean by take out upper spring pad and get the coil seated properly? or rotate spring pad?

 

The spring seats in the bottom and the top. In the bottom there is a curve in the steel for the spring to seat into. There is also the same tapered seat in the upper rubber pad. If you remove 3/4 of a coil the location where everything seats properly will be rotated a little out of sync with the other end. One you have the bottom in the seat you will have to rotate the rubber spring pad to line up with the spring. Am I making any sense? Someone help me here. If this doesn't make sense it will be very obvious when you do the work. It is not hard at all.

 

Because a coil spring is tapered, it has to mate up with something else that is tapered in the opposite direction. This keeps the weight of the car in contact with the entire top and bottom coil of the spring instead of just one point on the top and one point on the bottom. Typically springs fit into a tapered piece (spring stop) that has a surface tapered the same way as the spring, and a flat edge for the spring to fit against, this keeps the spring from rotating and distorting.

It really is a hard thing to describe, but if you do decide to alter your springs just be sure to take really good pictures before you do anything. This will help in re-assembly!

As soon as you have the spring out you'll see exactly what it mounts into...Then it'll hit you like a ton of bricks and you'll go "THAT is what they were talking about!"

 

^^^ Haha yes it will ^^^

 

Here are some pictures of the Spring Pads - I purchased a set of 5mm for the front and back springs so I can shave a little less off the springs.

 

Brian...I know you're just waiting to see who's the first to ask...so I'm game!

What is with the .22 rounds?

 

he wants to show where the spring fits if you notice one bullet is high than the other.

 

I understand intimately how springs fit into mounts and perches.

I was curious as to why the .22 rounds? No pencil, dime, normal things that people put in pictures to show perspective and or point things out?

 

You're Right - Sorry - here is a better perspective.

 

Nice revolver!