I want to replace my front rotors. I have warped the OEM at the track. I see the price on the Disc Italia at Brakeworld are $300.00.
Ebay has two listings. One is Rotorworks at $140.00 and one is Suzuki rotors at $109.00. Has anyone tried either of these?
Have forum members had bad experience with drilled and or slotted rotors cracking?

 

if your going to purchase drilled rotors you want the holes to be cast in the rotor not drilled, this will prevent cracking.

If you get the slotted rotors they have a tendancy to make an annoying buzzing sound while driving.



stick with the smooth surface rotors, and run cooling hoses to the brakes and use only ceramic pads. for another $80 you can get the oem rotor cryoed for more heat resitance. should make them last a little longer

 

I had brembo xdrilled on my '04 for almost 70,000 miles loved them. Get the disc italia better metal I'm sure!

 

Can anybody tell me, would just changing to a different brake pad, ceramic or otherwise, make them run cooler. I had a buddy use one of those digital laser thermomiter after a track run. I dont remember the temp but it was around 500 degrees hotter than his. He has drilled and sloted rotors on his car (not a corssfire).
I noticed that all the Porche's had drilled rotors, the corvettes had drilled rotors.
If a new brake pad would run cooler, which pad compound is best?

 

I would guess that it would be very hard to have a long lasting abrasive brake pad that brings a car to a stop, and still not build up any heat. as far as i know there would be no brake pad designed to help with heat build up, it's all in the rotors.

if you really need rotor cooling that bad pop out the fog lights and remove the access panel in the fender wells and you'll get a lot of air to help cool them down.

 

One of the best things about drilled/slotted rotors is the fact they will not warp like stock rotors. I ran drilled/slotted rotors on my last car for almost 80,000 miles with zero warpage and I raced, daily drove it and where I live in the mountains and brake a lot that proves how well they disipate heat.

Hawk brake pads are about the best out there, I would suggest those to go with the rotors.

 

If you are racing and have brake fade, part of your problem is with the brake fluid. Brake Fluid also takes away heat. Brake fade can happen when your old fluid heats up to it's boiling point. If it is old/original fluid...it is time to purge the stuff and get new. If your fliud is recent, then you may need to go to a higher temp (brake fluid boiling point) fluid designed for high heat racing applications. Best fluid is from Castrol but it costs around $60 per liter and needs to be replaced after a year of use.

parillaguy

 

My brake fluid is new and I have never had any problem with brake fade on the OEM rotors or pads. I did warp both front rotors at Blackhawk in Wisconson. I had OEM's put back on. I am getting lots of peer pressure to replace with drilled and slotted for the track. I do not want to pay for OEM agian.
OEM pads cost around $199.00 Centric. After market rotors are cheap as compared to OEM. I thought I could save the OEM and place the drilled rotors for the track time.
I only take it the the track about 4 times a year and do not want to spend alot of money.

 

drilled/slotted rotors will solve your problems, you will not have to worry about them warping.

 

you have to watch out for puddles when you've just got off the brakes too because the cold water will warp the **** out of your rotors

 

Like manisusmc says - water will warp them.
Also, I don't know whether you have an auto or stick tranny - autos are tougher on brakes than sticks. If you've driven the car hard and done some hard braking, don't sit there with the brake pedal pressed, use the e-brake or chocks if you can. The brake pads will retain heat in that part of the disc where they contact, causing uneven cooling of the rotors - helping them warp.

 

it would take one hell of a lot of water to warp drilled/slotted rotors, I ran mine for over 4 years through winters and at the dragstrip and on road courses.

He will have no problems with them unless they are of poor quality.

I have no idea why people on this site have to bash every single mod and be so paranoid and act like a persons car will explode of they do so much as change their floor mats.

 

it's simple physics, I'm not bashing any mods(in fact I plan on getting cross-drilled rotors myself) but when very hot metal comes into contact with water it tends to slightly warp maybe not on the first time but it'll happen.

 

usually it's not the water that warps the rotors, as not many people drive through 5-10" deep pudles slow enough to envelope the rotor.

The warping comes from heating the rotors to a high temp, and then you come to a stop at a light for more than a minute, this causes a temp diference form where the caliper is clamping the pads to the rotor, and the rotors exposed surface area.

is usually wise to leave a good space between you and the guy in front, so you can slowly roll forward and not come to a complete stop until the rotors are cooled down, usually you shouldn't come to a complete stop after hard canyon driving, or durring brake in of the rotors. gotta give them time to cool.

If you must come to a complete stop use the Emergency brake to hold the car!

 

lol, if rotors were that sensitive then everyone would be buying new ones after every rain storm.

oh no, i just looked out the window and my car burst into flames because I tinted my windows today I need to go get the fire extinguisher!