With the number of guys lowering their cars and wanting/needing adjustable rear camber arms, I am looking at making them.

I have the parts and am making 2 sets as pilot runs. 1 set using 7/8" round 304L stainless steel for the arms and 1 set using 7/8" 6061 aluminum hex. I am using the QA1 alloy steel rod ends and making spacers to fit so you can use the 12mm factory bolts.

I know there are at least two other vendors. I would just be another option if there is interest. I can make them on order or if there is enough interest, I can make some kits up and have them available.

I should be able to have pics by this weekend.

edit: I am only making the stainless steel version.

 

Manufacturing....that will help with bills Mike...and you will be precise...I am not lowering though, so maybe I can think of something else you can build for me. I still need sights put on my new "New Agent" Colt .45...lOl

 

if you make the engine brace you had a pic of i would be interested in that. maybe e some adj toe links?

 

I already have the rear camber arms so ...... but if you want to invent something for the front, you know, that could go to -3º I'd be in like flint.

Les

Edit: Oh oh oh .... adjustable swaybar links! DO IT.

 

Mike, You should concider chromemolly all of the race car companies provide the stock in Aluminum, SS and chromemolly. There is no reason for the weight of stainless.
I have a Modified Driver across the road from us and he makes a lot of them. Dirt track racers go through lots of them.
MIKE

 

I bought a set from a vendor here, he's gone now. They were made of aluminim and work great. What I want is adjustable caster arms. He had them but he went out of business before I could get a set.

TVT Design Rear Camber Arms ( 1 2 3 ... Last Page)

TVT Design Adjustable Rear Toe Arms!!!

 

If you were to have a Chromoly part in one hand and a stainless steel part in the other you could not tell the difference in weight. Both are steel and the difference in weight is negligible.
Any part like this should be forged or cast if it is aluminum. Machined aluminum is risky as it may contain flaws in the structure rendering it prone to breaking. The aluminum would have to be treated to prevent corrosion. Salt will eat the part away slowly.
Taking the strains that this part does I would not trust my neck to an aluminum part that has been machined, the weakest part would be the thread which would fail first.
Aluminum is light but not too strong in tension and compression, steel nuts tightened too much could strip the aluminum thread easily. As the aluminum is softer the locking nut will be hard to keep tight as the aluminum will mushroom slightly and loosen the nut. Corrosion between the steel and aluminum is another possibility.
Depending on the stainless alloy used it is less strong than chromoly to a lesser or greater degree.
If you have aluminum parts I would remove them unless you are sure they can take the load and not suffer fatigue and fail suddenly as aluminum work hardens and then snaps. The person you kill may not be yourself. An insurance company would hold you and the manufacturer liable.
No aircraft would be allowed of the ground with a part like this made using aluminum.
Aluminum is not a good idea. I would be hesitant supplying a part like this for legal reasons.
Aluminum is used by some as it is cheap and easy to machine but not safe in use over the long haul.
The 300 series of stainless steels are not for use as structural members, threads in it are weak and tear. It is also hard to machine a decent internal thread in as it does not cut well.
Hex aluminum is cold rolled and may have flaws in it unless it has been x-rayed and certified.

 

Dave is correct on all points made. But, in my extremely humble opinion, internal threads made in 300 series SST will be easily sufficient for this application. Many parts made for MB SLK's (MBWorld type) are swaged into tubing. Cold-formed. Worse possible scenario. Most tie-rod ends are made the same way. And they loosen and fail.

I'm making a pair of adjustable camber arms for mine. 316 SST hex stock, turned down in the center 2/3 to 9/16" for clearance and I believe I can tap the threads in such a fashion as to make them safe.

At least safer than aluminum.

 

I think I should have been a bit more specific; 304 st/stl is really stringy to cut and the threads are liable to strip and look like a Slinky. It is quite a soft material as purchased.
I presume you will be using left and right hand threads.
Personally I would rough out the internal threads on the lathe with a boring bar and finish with a good sharp tap that matched the class of the thread on the rod ends to give a nice fit.
My OP was more about the unsuitability of aluminum, a decent st/stl. would be adequate but 304 is not it.

 

Given, agreed and you are right again!

 

Here are pics of the set I have made from stainless steel. Based on the discussion I will only make SS. That is all I would use on my car anyway....

 

They look good to me, and should do the trick really well.
If I may be so bold as to suggest a flat on them might be a good thing if they are not planned already. Tightening will be OK but loosening both nuts would be a problem and a pipe wrench would mark them up bad.
Good job.

 

how much for a set without the heim joints mike?

 

I may be interested as well. But as suggested, somethning needs to be done to prevent using a pipe wrench on them one day.

James

 

Yes, I was thinking a 1/2" flat spot about 2" from one end. That will keep it clear of the spring, either inside or outside. If I cut .065" off each side that will make a 3/4" or 19mm wrench fit nicely....

 

i am very interested

 

I'm interested as well!

 

same here. ive been in need of a set for a while now

 

I'll jump on board. New wheels ordered, koni and eibachs coming next.

 

Excellent job with these adjustable arms Mike. If I continue with Autocrossing and get more serious(competitive)with it; I will want a set for sure.