Forum,
1. 2005 N/A Limited Roadster. In rear: Eibach Pro Kit springs w/ MB 4 dot pads and Koni Sport shocks. Front: same hardware except 3 dot MB spring pads. All shocks set approximately 1 full turn below firmest setting. TVT Design adjustable camber arms previously installed, no noises, no issues.

2. Ordered adjustable rear stabilizer bar end links from Ground Control. Mechanic installed after speaking with Donovan @ Ground Control (instructions although requested, not included). Donovan's recommendation start 1/2 inch shorter than OEM links. Mechanic followed recommended install.

3. Result: a) Clunking noise from rear, both sides going over seams, joints, small bumps straight or cornering (NO NOISE WITH STOCK END LINKS INSTALLED b). Top of TVT Design adjustable camber arms are making contact with bottom of stabilizer bar. Doesn't appear to be any contact between stab bar and body.

4. Back to mechanic (SCV German Car Care, Santa Clarita, CA. - EXCELLENT !). Mechanic has adjusted links "about as far out as they'll go". Better, but still have slight rattle. Mechanic says very little clearance between camber arm and stab bar. Stab bar bushing/bracket appeared to be in decent shape. Mike R.'s install suggested adjustable link set to 6 7/8" (approx. 1.02 " shorter than stock link).

5. Do I need to get these links yanked, measured and reinstall ? Ideas, questions, suggestions ??

Many thanks
Tim
2005 Ragtop

 

Here is an old post. Don't know if this may help or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dinasrt
Well, I received my swaybar links from GC a couple of days ago and tonight had a chance to check them out and pre-adjust to length. I used the 7-1/8" center to center measurement that I read from MikeR's old thread. Will try to find time to install this weekend, but here are a few observations. 1.) The links fully shortened are 5-3/4"center to center. Adjusted to my starting length of 7-1/8"center to center, there is 3/4" of thread on each end showing, and only 3/8" of thread inside both ends of the rod. Seems to me that they could have, should have, used a 5" rod instead of a 4" rod. Perhaps 3/8" of thread is adequate for the task(given that the O.E.M. link is some kind of plastic), but I would rather have seen 3/8" of thread showing, and 3/4" of thread into the rod, instead of the other way around. 2.) I had to clean out all the shavings out of one end of a rod and chase the threads. Other than that, they look good, and I look forward to improved ride performance.

Just wanted to update some info. on the sway bar links. After talking w/ Donovan @ G.C., he sent me a pair of 5" rods right away, which are a better fit IMO for those that are mildly lowered. The 5" rod creates a 6 3/4"(center to center) link at the shortest adjustment and can adjust all the way to stock length if anyone was purchasing these to replace the OEM links for any reason. The 4" rods that they originally supplied are necessary for getting down and finding the low limits. I've decided to keep the shorter rods for future lowering with their coil over conversion kit that's on my wish list.

 

Dinasrt,
1. Thanks so much for your experience/insight. You may be onto something here.
2. I'll have to limbo under the car and measure the adjustment rod/bar but probably have the 4" length you mention.
3. "After talking w/ Donovan @ G.C., he sent me a pair of 5" rods right away". Did this require an additional payment ? Not really critical, I'd just be annoyed that what was sent isn't going to work. Donovan was VERY easy to work with.

Tim

 

Dinasrt,
Some "oh by the way's". a) Have you had a chance to install the 5" adjustable links ? b) If "Yes" any post install issues ? Your impressions ? c) What hardware (springs, spring pads, shocks) are you running and how much lower than stock does your configuration leave you ?

 

Dinasrt,
This from Mike R's thread "I set the links for 6 7/8" which is 1" shorter than the factory links". I believe the nylon OEM links were measured at 7.8 inches in length
And then this from your response..."I used the 7-1/8" center to center measurement that I read from MikeR's old thread".
So naturally I 'm baffled and confused (a naturally occurring state) as to which initial adjustment length is correct/works ??/

 

It's been awhile since I did all that. I'm pretty sure that I ended up with 7" or 7-1/8". All our cars are slightly different from one another with all the variables, and we'll all have a different adjustment. It all depends how much you're lowered. The goal is to be static; with no load on the bar(or just a very slight bit) when car is sitting level. To answer your questions; IIRC MikeR started at 6-7/8" and ended up at 7-1/8". I have dot3 pads, cut SRT6 springs(1/2 coil), Koni sport shocks, K-Mac camber kit front and rear, and Ground Control stab.bar end links. Sorry, but I never measured before and after ride height. I went only 1/2 coil because I was wanting to avoid any possible rubbing issues; but I may cut another 1/4 someday when I have nothing but time on my hands.

 

Dinasrt,
Yes I can see that the goal is to relieve as much stabilizer bar pre load as possible while leaving sufficient clearance between the camber arm and stab bar. Will order 5" link, start over with an initial length of 7-1/8" and see where that leaves me. Again thanks so much for your input/feedback.

Tim

 

I put my stock links back in. I bought Name Brand Manufactured links specifically for my car so I wouldn't have to build them by trial and error.

Stock links work fine for car lowered 1.2 inches