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The question is does yours have ball joints? Mine doesn't. I looked again with a flashlight and magnifying glass. I can't find any more numbers on the arms.
Les
Les, do I have to physically remove the control arm to get a clear view of the numbers of the spot where I could find the MB symbol and numbers, or do you think I could lift the car and get in there and see it?
Here are the options that I have found for my Front Lower Control Arms. I am only showing the info for the Right one for now, but I will be replacing both the left and the right (and possibly uppers if it is recommended as well.)
Anyone familiar with these manufacturers? Are they reputable? Can I safely go with the cheapest? Any success stories or horror stories with these parts?
I am at 145K miles and the rubber bushings are all busted up.
I'm not trying to say you are wrong, but how do you know they are all busted up? Have you pulled the lower control arm bolts off and actually looked at the bushings? If those two bushings are bad then your steering is effected and your tires will be wearing very poorly, but you have not mentioned either of the two most observable results of bad lower control arm bushings.
Do your tires usually wear out on the inner side yet still have good tread on the outer? If so then get a set of eccentric bolts, install then in place of the original bolts that are installed from the factory. Using the eccentric bolts will change the camber so your tires will wear evenly on the front.
If your back tires are wearing well then leave that alone. If it isn't broke, do not fix it.
I'm not trying to say you are wrong, but how do you know they are all busted up? Have you pulled the lower control arm bolts off and actually looked at the bushings? If those two bushings are bad then your steering is effected and your tires will be wearing very poorly, but you have not mentioned either of the two most observable results of bad lower control arm bushings.
Do your tires usually wear out on the inner side yet still have good tread on the outer? If so then get a set of eccentric bolts, install then in place of the original bolts that are installed from the factory. Using the eccentric bolts will change the camber so your tires will wear evenly on the front.
If your back tires are wearing well then leave that alone. If it isn't broke, do not fix it.
Thanks for all of the info @zip439. I have been under the car several times trying to figure out what is causing my highway vibration and I have had 2 mechanics and a crossfire owner who rebuilds cars take a look at it. The bushings are most definitely busted and flaking apart.
The main reason that I am replacing things on the car is that it does not handle like it used to. I just don't feel like I am in control of it most of the time and I cannot drive it the way that I used to. I am in the process of changing out everything that could be bad on the car in an effort to get it back to the way it was and to get rid of the vibration.
Done:
New Tires
New Rims
New Shocks
New Motor Mounts
New Tranny Mount
Alignment (sort of, since you can't really align these things when they are stock)
Still to do:
Control Arms and/or Bushings
Driveshaft Flex Discs
Driveshaft Bearing
Springs
I see you have posted in some other threads as well, so you are well versed in the options and the prices. If you’re replacing the lower control arm with the Lamforder then The most cost effective way to go is to install it with the factory bolts that are on the car now. After that is complete get an alignment, if they can’t get it to specs then go back with the eccentric bolts. Search: DIY eccentric bolt install. You will find all the info there you need. Putting the adjustable bushings into a new A-Frame lower control arm is a lot of money just to adjust for camber and unnecessary for anyone other than hard core racing.
I replaced my flex disc at about 80,000 miles. Good Luck !
Re: Front Lower Control Arm
