Originally Posted by
pizzaguy
Here is your "Find my battery drain" procedure:
1) Open hood.
2) Take key out of ignition.
3) Close glove box door, trunk lid and both doors.
4) Take battery ground cable off.
5) Insert meter between battery post and ground cable, set to 10amp scale.
6) Observe current reading (it will be .1 to .3 amps, if it is zero, you don't have the meter connected or configured properly).
Do not continue until you get a reading on the meter.
7) WAIT THREE MINUTES - the current reading will go down, as modules hibernate.
8) AFTER THREE MINUTES - any current reading over 55mA (.055 amp) is a problem.
If you have too much current, start pulling fuses until the current drops below .055 amp - Pulling some fuses will cause the current to go UP, this is due to 'waking' a module somewhere, wait three minutes and it should go back down, only then believe the reading on the meter.
If NO fuse causes the current to go down enough, in the little black box next to battery (size of a pack of cigarettes):
9) --- Remove one 50 amp fuse that goes to engine fan - it is labeled.
If that does not do it:
10) --- Remove other 50 amp fuse, that goes to brake controller - it is labeled.
If that does not do it:
11) --- Remove 200 amp fuse that feeds entire car. (If that does it, we need to talk!)
If that does not do it:
12) --- Remove BIG red cable from back of alternator - if that does it, you need a new alternator (or get the one you have rebuilt, but make sure the guy knows it has a bad diode(s) ).
If that does not do it:
You need real help. My rate is $100 per hour plus $1600 travel expenses. (You should report the car stolen at this point.)
Alright so I got lucky and my buddy is helping me out back home. This is what we found. With the multimeter connected and the car in hibernation it's pulling .538 DC (forgive me if we **** this up were aircraft hydraulic mechanic we don't deal with readying wires much) so we stared pulling fuses no big drops till I get to fuse 35. Radio frequency remote control, hazards, interment cluster and climate control. We pull that fuse and big drop to .007 DC. With fuse removed the car will not start and as expected no instrument cluster or hazards.
Uppon reconnecting and disconnecting he said he found a click that sounds like a circuit open or closing and started the car wahla A/C. Turn it off back to issues repeat disconnecting and reconnecting the battery untill the click is heard and A/C works and no issues starting. The click is not the RCM as the sound
rather is coming from passenger side of engine around the 3 coil packs I'm told but can't pin point exactly cause almost sounds internal I guess. So that's are findings let me know if you can think of anything or more to try and I'm going to try and find what fuse 35 exactly powers..