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The project " Battery vent out" is done. See the pictures of my project step by step.
1. Found the closest rubber plug.
While this looks like a clean location to allow drainage of any condensed battery vapor, which is a corrosive, I don't know that I would have selected this location. Since I can see the tire tread below the hole, any condensed vapor will drain onto the tire and/or possibly the rim. With the car moving, this vapor could be thrown off the tire/rim and come in contact with the underside of the front fender, RF wheel, and/or any suspension components. While any corrosive wear could take a long time (it's not like battery vapor gets generated at a high rate), I think over time you will see signs of corrosive wear in & around the RF area of the car. Just my $0.02.
Like what is shown in the Amazon Link (and posted earlier by onehundred80), the hose will need to be long enough to find a route thru the engine bay to allow any condensed vapor (corrosive) to drain on the ground and not on any surface/accessory/etc of the car.
Originally Posted by monaderio
In my project, all go to the atmosphere.
In my suggestion above, the battery vapor would also drain to atmosphere. But with a drain that exited beneath the car in the engine bay, I believe less likely to have any of this corrosive media make contact with anything on the car.
While this looks like a clean location to allow drainage of any condensed battery vapor, which is a corrosive, I don't know that I would have selected this location. Since I can see the tire tread below the hole, any condensed vapor will drain onto the tire and/or possibly the rim. With the car moving, this vapor could be thrown off the tire/rim and come in contact with the underside of the front fender, RF wheel, and/or any suspension components. While any corrosive wear could take a long time (it's not like battery vapor gets generated at a high rate), I think over time you will see signs of corrosive wear in & around the RF area of the car. Just my $0.02.
I bought the car with 27K mileage and the battery vent was opened. I have no idea how long it was open but I did not find any signs of corrosion or any other damages around.
This project has been done in 15 minutes so to reroute the hose will take another 15 min. I don't worry about it.
BTW, the one side of the hose barb fitting is still open. I could add an extension hose and send it to the ground.
Last edited by monaderio; Aug 3, 2020 at 08:42 AM.
Many cars these days have the battery in the trunk which is cooler than the engine bay, the result is tharp the battery lasts longer.
To prevent the accumulation of explosive hydrogen in the trunk the battery is sealed at one end a
with a solid plug that is pushed in the hole near the top of the battery. The hole at the other end has a fitting pressed in and a hose attached to which is a hose leading to the exterior of the car.
You can buy these kits quite cheaply and use one of these in the forward hole of the battery and tie it down neatly with it safely out of the way of any metal.
Hardly any fluid comes out of the vent, it would be mostly gases containing some vapour. Too much liquid would indicate that you had battery trouble and it was overheating and the battery would soon be dead.
Corrosion around a terminal indicates a small gap between the battery post and the battery case, this is rare these days days but it was common when cases where made of pitch and not polypropylene like today. If you have this corrosion get rid of the battery or it will spill battery acid or acidic gases on the terminal clamp, battery tray or bodywork causing damage.
Last time i tharped a battery it was painful.
BTW, I have one of those hose kits installed on my battery.
As to thawwrapping a battery (pronounced thaw-wrap-ping), which happens in the cold cold artic (and other places like the Antarctic)! Thawwrapping (wrapping to thaw), new lingo for the extreme cold which every battery needs where it is extremely cold.....
I fixed the TPMS light on the instrument panel that shows low tire pressure or battery failure.
I used the instructions of RCompart (Rudy) which can be found on this forum. I found some clarification was necessary, and to this end I have edited his words and added photos.
Last edited by onehundred80; Aug 4, 2020 at 10:23 PM.
Playing with the spare shift **** and OEM leather boot. Stick them with epoxy and waiting for the glue cure.
I think you mean OE leather boot. OE means "original equipment." It refers to either the parts the car was delivered with or to replacement parts which EXACTLY REPLACE (are 100% the same as) the original part.
OEM means "original equipment manufacturer" and refers to parts made by the SAME MANUFACTURER as the OE part which usually differ by not have the legal brand/logo markings which the OE part had, but functionally are the same.
I think you mean OE leather boot. OE means "original equipment." It refers to either the parts the car was delivered with or to replacement parts which EXACTLY REPLACE (are 100% the same as) the original part.
OEM means "original equipment manufacturer" and refers to parts made by the SAME MANUFACTURER as the OE part which usually differ by not have the legal brand/logo markings which the OE part had, but functionally are the same.
I finally got some time to work on my crossfire again and continued my journey to add more wires than the manufacturer. This time I am adding a 360 birds eye camera system that also doubles as a dash cam. It will have a camera under each side mirror, one under the rear hatch by the handle and one in the front grill. The controller stitches the video from the four cameras together to create a birds eye view of the car while you are parking. It also records the full fisheye view of each camera onto a USB for playback if needed. I have this system on my S4 as well and I am a big fan of it. I plan to have the the car display the 360 view and backup view on the main screen in the center console and view the side views when I use the turn signals on the gauge cluster. I'll post a video when its all wrapped up together The wire hole in the mirror was just big enough to run the camera wire through. I really lucked out on this one The camera sticks down just far enough to get an image from the back side making it not visible from the drivers seat