I read a post on Facebook on the Northwest Crossfire Owners Page on May 7th

It read Quote:
"Any of you who are planning to clay bar your car you might want to consider this.
I bought one and it is a lot easier to do than using standard claybars and it is a lot faster.
Just claybared my car tonight and it is smooth as glass"

I bought one of these and claybared my Roadster today with ease and the results were excellent !!
I highly recommend one of these for all of you who want the very best for your Crossfire detailing kit.
Get one here today on

Amazon.Com

Amazon.Com

 

I took the time this morning to remove the DS Wiper Arm and remove the rubber grommet I installed last fall. Due to the misalignment between the cowl opening and the DS wiper arm spindle, I wanted to open up the hole more than I did last fall (didn't want to remove the cowling) to allow the grommet to fit & look better. I used a small linoleum knife (had to sharpen it up some to cut thru the cowling) to open up the hole. I followed onehunder80's lead and used a fender washer positioned over the wiper arm drive spindle to draw an outline of the required opening (or something relatively close). I then slowly worked my way around the outline slicing out small sections to produce the required opening. Had to check fitment & appearance as I got close to finishing up the hole enlargement to make sure I didn't remove too much cowling material. Final hole wasn't the most round-looking result, but once the grommet was installed, one would never know that fact. Re-installed the DS wiper arm and re-torqued nut to 19 N-m per Shop Manual.

Piece of advice, when removing the wiper arm using a small puller, make sure the hood is in the extended vertical position so you have ample room to raise the wiper arm. With the wiper arm raised, the fastening point is aligned perpendicular to the spindle shaft (no side load from the wiper arm pressing down against the windshield). That way when you apply pressure with the puller, the wiper arm will lift straight up and comes off really easy. Reverse this when re-installing the wiper arm. After making sure the wiper arm will rest in the location you want, and installing the nut just enough to keep the wiper arm from coming off the spindle, slowly raise the wiper while holding the mounting point to prevent it from moving. Tighten up the nut and torque to spec. That way when applying the required torque, the wiper arm will be perpendicular to the spindle shaft, avoiding any side load as you tighten down. Lower the wiper arm first & then lower the hood (imperative to do this in this sequence!- don't ask how I know!! ). Check the wipers for proper operation. I always recommend lowering the hood before checking wiper operation & place something over the hood's back edge on the DS (I use a small drying towel to provide protection not only along the edge but also covers the rear section of the hood on the DS). If the wiper arm isn't secured properly, it gets "real ugly" quick when the wiper arm tries to come off the spindle!

Final check - With the hood lowered & secured, raise the DS wiper arm and make sure there is clearance in the raised position between the wiper arm & the hood.

 

Nice write up. 'Thinking on doing this. Are there any pics?

 

There is a PDF showing how to do this, click on the Index of .... shown in red in my signature you.
Go to the BODY section and look for the PDF on how to add the missing Isolator.
You can do it with the cowl still in place or take the cowl off and do it. I suggest taking the cowl off and clean the area underneath it to remove debris that can plug the drains and cause you serious problems later when the drains become plugged and water overflows into the heating air vent.
You can run thin wires down the drains to make sure they are free of debris now.

 

Added new Zunsport Grille and Rhino Lip. I also added fender slash stripes that came out awesome and wrapped the windshield trim and side grilles, and door handles with the same silver metallic material as the stripes. The silver is awesome and has just a hint of blue to accentuate the Aero Blue paint. I will get pictures of this upgrade posted very soon. Also ordered a full 6 way adjustable seat base for the passenger side. (The wife is tired of sitting below the dash). Should be installing that this weekend.

 

changed the diff again,,307 to 346

 

I manage to hit an all time best 26.9 MPG over the 293 miles I drove today!

 

Pulled the cowl to access the alarm that doesn't work. Cleaned out quite a mess, vacuumed the blower motor from above. Removed the bad alarm before it could cause any problems. No problems after removing the alarm. Had to purchase a wiper arm puller from local auto parts. Re assembled with anti seize just in case I have to do it again. Fan blowing better now. Lights still flash when alarm would have sounded.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/hans8112/, on Flickr

 

Bought new (to me) Crossfire, 2007 Roadster Limited 67000 KM. Repaired power seat relay, seats now move with door closed. Refreshed solder joints on RCM.

 

If anybody interested in doing this, DO IT! Gave it a quick wash and then used this little gem to clay bar the entire car in about 90 minutes. Then a nice wax job and she looks like she rolled off the showroom (except for a few paint chips, clay barring won't fix that). If you are not sure your car needs this, try this little trick I learned.
I always keep my cars well waxed and the finish feels smooth so I am in a false sense of security that it doesn't need clay barred. Now after you have felt the finish with your bare hand, place a plastic bag over your hand (a plastic grocery bag works great, or a sandwich bag). Then feel the finish thru the plastic. You will be amazed at how rough it feels. Then proceed to clay bar until it is smooth and silky.


Also go to PepBoys.com and get one right now. I ordered online and with their current promotion, they are 25% off. I paid $18.07 with tax. That's less than I could find one on eBay or Amazon and did not have to wait for it to ship. Picked it up on the way home from work!

 

I took a ride up to Michigan today to pick up my Adamesh Windscreen.
I bought this from a friend and previous Crossfire owner
This was the last one of these sold to him by a company named Adamesh several years ago and now it's on my Roadster
These mesh windscreens work very well to

 

Changed the idler arm bushing and repacked front bearings

Alignment tomorrow

 

Bought a Back up Camera, and started the install. Camera 1.

 

The write-up onehunder80 refers to is a good one. I have a copy in my XFire library of files on the PC in my home office.

 

I always thought this wind screen was the best looking one out there for the XFire Roadster. You see a similar version still listed on eBay every once in awhile: Aperta Windscreen


And a mesh-like windscreen that's close to the Adamesh is still available from CHROM DESIGN

 

I replaced an old backup camera that came with the car with a new Coolwoo camera. Woohoo, it's a Coolwoo!

I still had a little static on the camera view with the engine running so I inserted a passive noise filter (PAC CSS12) in the power line to the camera. I've got a great view now.

 

Decided to see what I could do with the soft brake pedal I had, and finally fixed it! I and a friend did a complete brake bleed starting right rear, left rear, right front then left front. The old brake fluid was dirty AND it had some kind of black silt in it. Once I flushed new fluid into the calipers, I took another 3 or so ounces of clean fluid out. After doing each caliper, I tested the feel of the pedal. That's when I found out the first caliper (right rear) fluid change resulted in a full firm pedal. When the job was complete (including a rotation side to side of the tires) I took it for a test drive and it was 100% firm and solid. Put about 200 miles on her coming back home from Hickory NC, with no leaks and super firm brake pedal.


Used CARQUEST DOT 4 brake fluid, it was on sale for 3 bucks a 32oz bottle. Best 3 bucks spent in a while!

.

 

That’s $1.50 a pint, I pay over $20 for a pint of Motul 600.
When was the last time you changed the fluid, not often?

 

Used the 3M headlight restoration kit on both lights. Took longer than anticipated but turned out great.

 

As I stated in another thread, my soft pedal was resolved with bleeding the rear brakes. I didn't break it down to which side since I did them both then checked. I am thinking that the air is getting in the caliper past the seal when temps get cold sitting in the garage all winter. The fluid is cold, contracting, the seal is cold and contracted, allowing air to be sucked in past the seal. It won't leak fluid because when pressure is applied, it reseals it self. Just an idea because I have nothing else.