Just got the car back from my install. 1 JL12W6, 1 JLHD750/1, in a ported box. I am definately happy with my decision! I guess the subs need break in time, so everything in the head unit, is set lower than normal. I had the remote level control **** installed just under the dash, which is handy. From the settings in the equalizer, being half way, especially on the low side, this combo is going to be painfull, with it all turned up. Yes the 1300 bucks part sucked, but it was worth it. Pushing 600W rms, I feel that a capacitor, could help. chris

 

You think you could get some pics?

 

Lets see those pics buddy~

 

there really isn't much to look at. The amp is behind the drivers seat, and unfortunately the box was bigger, than the one I looked at a month ago. When do you have to worry about breaking glass? I have never had something this loud, and it isn't even turned up with the eq. How do I post pics? I have a digital camera, but I don't know all of the html stuff. chris

 

From what I understand, a capacitor won't make a difference with a JL Audio amp b/c they have highly regulated power supplies.

Look forward to seeing pics.

 

put it on something such as photobucket.com or a hosting service then there is a button that is 7 pictures from the right when you are making a post that looks like a mountain with a sun. you will click that then it will ask for the html and photobucket will tell you which one to use to put there. i say photobucket just because its free and i am used to it there are hundreds of them. but yeah i had a friend crack his window in his truck with a 12 inch kicker. he was pushing around 1200watts and put on a hard hitting song and it spidered webbed. made it worse that he had the sub in the drivers seat so it was the front window that webbed

 

In the driver's seat? You can do that? More info please or a link. I have the Infinity Nav system, it sounds like an early transistor radio. At freeway speeds with the top down it sounds like an old crystal set, or Rudy Valee through a megaphone. Yeh! that bad! (and no, I never went to any of his concerts)

 

He's actually lucky, had it have been the rear window, it would have cost more because of the defroster stuff. for example a rear window with defroster for a 94 t-bird was 1100 bucks, same time windshield was somewhere around 230. I'll check out photobucket. I still haven't taken any pictures, since I took pictures of my totaled cobra 9/14/08.

 

well i mean hes the big truck redneck type and still has not really dealt with fixing it haha. but yeah he is extremely lucky. he sold the entire system after the incident. but i am working on getting a system together. do you really like your system? does it sound good

 

FWIW, it costs exactly $493.12 to replace the backglass on a crossfire.

 

Glass breaking is urban legend. As an old IASCA / USAC enthusiast, I never saw it, even with vehicles hitting 172db.

A broken mount may cause it. MAYBE. But it is no more likely than it breaking over a speedbump. Pressure won't do it. Don't worry.

 

Don't bother with the capacitor either, they won't help with real voltage drops (this is why you see the big systems with multiple batteries, not caps). More than likely you won't see any real voltage drop with that amp. If you do, upgrade your battery grounds and battery-alt wires and make sure you have sufficiently sized wire running to the amp itself.

 

other than the loss of 80% of the trunk, hell yeah! I wouldn't really see a need to go bigger, unless you like wearing earplugs. It is very clear, and I have yet to turn up the eq settings. I would be interested in hearing a 12w7, or two 12w6 10's. But if you can cough up the cash, you won't be dissapointed. I would recommend the remote level control. Much easier than going through the cd player to turn down the bass. And if I didn't mention it it will make street lights dance. If you have any questions, feel free to ask! chris

I think it even opened my gas fill cover. While the doors were unlocked. it was open when I got in the car after work, and I know it was locked, so somewhere on the way to work, it popped open. And your spoiler will definately dance.

 

I have seen headlights dim, when the bass hits, at idle. I just noticed mine do it all of the time. What do I need? Battery, capacitor?? brands, and or sizes would help. I didn't realize I would be drawing that kind of amperage, above idle. Thanks,chris
they used a 4 gauge kit I believe. All stinger stuff.

 

What gauge power and ground did you run? did you upgrade your stock battery to ground or battery to alternator?

For a battery basically you want the biggest you can afford and can fit safely. Before I replaced the battery I would triple check all my connections and upgrade the stock battery/alternator wiring.

 

I had it installed at a local shop. they used a stinger 4 gauge kit. What do I need to do to upgrade the wires? what gauge do I need to go with? Should the shop have taken it in to consideration, with the install? thanks for the response, chris

 

4gauge is fine for the amp wiring. I'm not really sure how to explain how to upgrade the stock wiring, so i'll let this other person's website do the explaining.

note: i didn't write this page, barely even looked at it actually, just searched the "big 3 audio upgrade" as it's usually referred to as the big 3

http://www.isyougeekedup.com/the-big...iring-upgrade/

 

Mine did that until I changed out the stock Mopar Battery for an Optima Yellow top.

 

that was kinda what I was thinking. I just wasn't sure since the crossfire is mercedes, vs. ford which is what I'm used to. Do you know what your battery specs are? Just drop it in and go, or is there anything I should know, or do at the same time? thanks, chris

 

I don't know the model number, but its got 750 CCA and I bought it at Auto Zone~