no throttle response
This has happened to me twice that the throttle basically quits working if you get on it hard and even taking off it takes 5-10 seconds to start taking off and slowly at that. I know it's throttle by wire and I will probably take it to the dealer to get it fixed, but I was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem?
Originally Posted by XFIRENAZ
This has happened to me twice that the throttle basically quits working if you get on it hard and even taking off it takes 5-10 seconds to start taking off and slowly at that. I know it's throttle by wire and I will probably take it to the dealer to get it fixed, but I was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem?
Thanks for your quick reply. Is the throttle reset listed in the owner's manual? We have only owned our Crossfire since June 09' and this is my wife's DD, but I love to drive it when I get the opportunity. I will do a google search on the throttle reset.
throttle body reset
Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over.
Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.
Drive the car as you always do.
Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over.
Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.
Drive the car as you always do.
For the throttle reset, do you have to leave the key in the ignition when you do the "2 minute wait" or can you just do the first few steps, then exit the car and it'd be ready next time you drive?
Does this happen when traction control is on? Remember, when the traction light is on, the traction control is off. When the traction control is the light is off, if the tires get loose it will start blinking and the throttle will cut back to maintain control. When you have it switched to off, "light on" the control is cut back to 20%. On the ice or or water if the car looses enough traction the throttle control will will drop the throttle off and the light will start blinking. Forgive me for considering this might be an issue. It has been with others and it turned out the didn't understand the traction/ stability control. So I thought I would drop this in there, cause you never know...
Originally Posted by billvp
For the throttle reset, do you have to leave the key in the ignition when you do the "2 minute wait" or can you just do the first few steps, then exit the car and it'd be ready next time you drive?
Key must remain in the ignition after turning to "off" for at least 2 more minutes.
throttle by wire means voltage is sent to the throttle body...so where there's an electrical connection, there can be a short, loose wire, loose connection...but since it doesn't do this all the time, the throttle reset may work...if it doesn't, then move the peddle around, making sure it hasn't come loose or out of alignment in some way...the car has a natural hesitation, but not 5 or 10 seconds....good luck
Thanks for all the responses, I will try the throttle reset, sounds like a likely solution. The Crossfire is parked right now because my wife is laid up and I haven't had the time to attend to this, but will check back after I've done the throttle reset and test drove it. Everybody has probably saved me a trip to the dealer.
UPDATE: I did the throttle reset twice, but it was only a temporary fix. The throttle response is affected everytime I get on the throttle hard. If I drive it normal(easy), there is no problem with the throttle response acting up. If I punch the throttle, it goes into limp mode(check engine light comes on) and I will have to do the throttle reset. I took it to the Dodge/Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed it as the module in the throttle pedal( approx. $500 fix), but prefaced by saying their scanner was not a complete scanning tool for the Crossfire and could not guarantee that was the problem. There was no charge for their diagnosis and they recommended another Chrysler dealer that had the proper equipment. Being as how this only happens when I drive it, we are going to wait till my wife is able to drive and see if it acts up under her driving habits. Thanks for the input.
Sorry I'm in on this late, you get on it and it derates and you have very little throttle response until you cycle the key? That is the limp mode because of information the computer doesn't like. I have had that problem before and it was the TPS sensor. I am pretty sure that is your problem.
Paul
Paul
Again Again, been there and done that........
I was autocrossing and had this issue when going hard, not spinning, just hard like 6000 in first for 40 - 50 seconds on the course. Drove me nuts and it was before I got the data logger, Zeitronix which would have shown the real issue.
I opened my throttle pedal and throttle body looking for issues and it was high inlet air temps due to poor cooling of the innercooler. This what spun me into the cooling mods for the car, super cooler, hood vents, insulation blanket and engine lower pan deletes, separated I/C c/c Brian Brave and lower tstat mod (180F).
You need to go hard in second from a roll so that spin is eliminated, and see if the error occures. IF it does it may be poor cooling of the I/C which may need a radiator flush and new coolant. My I/C had a waxy gunk in it which I flushed and got rid of to assist in my problem.
Heating can give you the errors noted and they may take only 15-20 seconds of WOT to occure. If its wheel spin, you should see the TC flash and NOT set fault codes.
Like I said, I went nuts and started opening all the modules to see how they worked and clean them which turned out to be unnecessary. Fault codes are a starting point and not always correct per se.
My GPS actually send me in circles at times and has me loop - so dont trust electronics too much or all the time. Pacemakers are the one exception . . . . . .hopefully
Woody
I was autocrossing and had this issue when going hard, not spinning, just hard like 6000 in first for 40 - 50 seconds on the course. Drove me nuts and it was before I got the data logger, Zeitronix which would have shown the real issue.
I opened my throttle pedal and throttle body looking for issues and it was high inlet air temps due to poor cooling of the innercooler. This what spun me into the cooling mods for the car, super cooler, hood vents, insulation blanket and engine lower pan deletes, separated I/C c/c Brian Brave and lower tstat mod (180F).
You need to go hard in second from a roll so that spin is eliminated, and see if the error occures. IF it does it may be poor cooling of the I/C which may need a radiator flush and new coolant. My I/C had a waxy gunk in it which I flushed and got rid of to assist in my problem.
Heating can give you the errors noted and they may take only 15-20 seconds of WOT to occure. If its wheel spin, you should see the TC flash and NOT set fault codes.
Like I said, I went nuts and started opening all the modules to see how they worked and clean them which turned out to be unnecessary. Fault codes are a starting point and not always correct per se.
My GPS actually send me in circles at times and has me loop - so dont trust electronics too much or all the time. Pacemakers are the one exception . . . . . .hopefully
Woody
Originally Posted by XFIRENAZ
This has happened to me twice that the throttle basically quits working if you get on it hard and even taking off it takes 5-10 seconds to start taking off and slowly at that. I know it's throttle by wire and I will probably take it to the dealer to get it fixed, but I was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem?




