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sub replacement update -------just did mine one thing I learned that I didnt see in my research ,, if u want to use al oem stuff ? take out oem sub there will b a plastic 1/2 inch spacer on top of sub remove it carefully stuck down use aplpw6d 6 sub woofer place spacer underneath speaker replace stock screws with 1/14 inch self tappers put in waaalaaa no cutting no modifying,,,remember the magnet is whats gona give u problems usually the better the speaker the bigger the magnet,,,this worked for me fyi I did drill out the 3 souround nut holes a little bigger on plastic case just to make it a little easier on my self for fitment
sub replacement update -------just did mine one thing I learned that I didnt see in my research ,, if u want to use al oem stuff ? take out oem sub there will b a plastic 1/2 inch spacer on top of sub remove it carefully stuck down use aplpw6d 6 sub woofer place spacer underneath speaker replace stock screws with 1/14 inch self tappers put in waaalaaa no cutting no modifying,,,remember the magnet is whats gona give u problems usually the better the speaker the bigger the magnet,,,this worked for me fyi I did drill out the 3 souround nut holes a little bigger on plastic case just to make it a little easier on my self for fitment ,,,,,,,,,,,,,;]
Installed the -Earthquake Sound SWS-6.5X - No modification - direct fit and they SUCK! barely any bass due to the single voice coil. Also they did require some modding to the factory housing being it was a tad bit to small in the overall diameter. Dremel took care of that though.. Definitely recommend dual coils to take advantage of the stock amp..
-Boss BP6.8 - No modification - direct fit
-Lanzar VW64 - No modification - direct fit
-Pyramid WX65X - No modification - direct fit
-MTX Audio RTX658 - No modification - direct fit
-Boss Audio NP6.4 - No modification - direct fit
-Earthquake Sound SWS-6.5X - No modification - direct fit
-Crossfire XS M6 6" XS - No modification - direct fit
-Kicker CVT654 - No modification - direct fit
-Tang Band W6 - modification and cutting required
-Ultra series LV 6 - modification and cutting required
-JL Audio 6W3v3-4 - - modification and cutting required
-DD Audio SW6.5 - modification and cutting required
-RE Audio XXX6.5C - modification and cutting required
-Peerless SLS 6.5 - modification and cutting required
-CDT Audio CL-6MSUB - modification and cutting required
-CDT Audio M6+ - modification and cutting required
Best overall sounding in no particular order & requires modification and cutting.
Wow, Great List. I had to replace most of my sound system last summer as the factory amp was dead. An old friend of mine owns a shop that does all sorts of add on electronics and he did a great job. His company used to compete and win many of the car show for sound systems so I trust him with all my stuff. He did not replace my subs because the factory ones were very good and as floating subs would be hard to match.
One has ~ 1.875" of clearance, Clarence. My amp is 2.000" and I placed a pair of spacers under the seat tracks to make room. There are a number of really thin amps available. I would have chosen more wisely if I had known.
What type of spacers am I looking for?? Pics or link? Thank you in advance
Can we actually replace these 'subs' with normal speakers without having to modify anything? As long as the bass is good or decent and the audio quality is clear I don't care about subs. I don't mind replacing an amp either but I would prefer to keep the basket or carpet intact. Anybody can help me out with that? My car is rattling like crazy right now it's really bad.
Just a note on the Kicker 40cwrt672, it has been discontinued by kicker and replaced by 43cwrt672, if you do a google search "40cwrt672 vs 43cwrt672" you'll find a link to see the dynamic difference between the two...in short the 43cwrt672 is an improved version.
i like Max's idea to cut the oval holes to fit these 6.75" and face them forward (firing at the back of the seat). the price is about $100 ea, however i just got a pair (2subs) off ebay for under $150. hope this info helps
Definitely the Pyle PLPW6D. I am using the OEM amp with a Kenwood KVT-516 and Infinity Kappa component fronts. Sounds GREAT and is very loud, even a freeway speeds with the top down. Amazon has these now for $9.99. I just ordered two spares in case I need them so, now that I have mine, have at it!
Hey Jobiggs,
It's been a while since your install. Are they still going strong? My subs need replacing since I believe my driver's side sub is beyond the repair kit's capability.
Amazon has the SWS6.5x at $89.99 right now.
Just checking in to see if you're still happy with them.
Thank you!
I did the rebuild kits on the sub woofers and one fixed and the other didn't, blown coil. I went to my local audio place with the XF parts and he tells me the current sub woofers are Dual Voice Coil, DVC, 2 ohm speakers, and it would be difficult if not impossible to replace. I have reviewed most of the threads on this issue and have googled the recommended speakers that are a "no modifications required" variety. Some speakers are no longer available. I cannot tell if any of the recommended, "this is what I used with no modifications" list, was adherred to in the 2 ohms and DVC my audio guy said I should use. I will not modify the housings with the exception of enlarging a mounting hole. Thanks for the help.
Stop wasting time and energy (which, it seems, you are done with).
Do the easy thing - take one of the speaker 'cages' out and find a conventional speaker you like that you can fit in there. Then buy two and install them.
THEN, buy a new, modern four channel amp that does not expect dual coils. Install it, and add four more wires from the head unit* to the new amp - and have REAL four channel sound.
*Yes, buy a new head unit as well. You will be amazed at how your car can sound.
It can be as cheap as:
New JVC head: $85
New Amp: $99
New Rear Speakers: $60
Wires and connectores: $20
OR, you can review posts 113 to 115, order PLPW6D subwoofers from Amazon and have them delivered for free within 18 hours (in Canada). These are 4 ohm (will work) and dual voice coil to be compatible with all other OEM equipment. I spent about 4 hours carefully modifying the plastic mount baskets for the speakers with my dremel Had to take about 1/8th off around the ring and remove some of the back to accommodate the larger magnet, still a glove fit.. Great Sound, Great fix, about $60. Pink Floyd hasn't sounded this good since we got the car! Not NUTS enough to do anything else.
Replaced my stock subs with Earthquake SWS6.5x hooked to Alpine Mrp-M500 under passenger seat
MAN!!! What a difference...sounds better than when I had my Alpine amp running a 10" sub in the trunk AND got ALL my trunk space back
Very little modification needed to baskets.(Less than 5 minutes of Dremel work)
I'm looking to replace the 2 subs behind the seats. If I choose these will I have to upgrade the amp as well? Thanks in advance, I know this is an old post.
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
