60K miles. Car wasn't driven much over the winter. Any ideas? I can only think that the brakes need bleeding or master cylinder replaced. Thoughts?

 

If you pump the pedal a couple times, then keep pressure on it, does it slowly sink to the floor? If so, it's most likely the master cylinder. If you pump it several times, and the pedal gets higher and higher, it's most likely air.

Side question: Do you work on all those cars? lol

 

I don't work on them as much as I should...

Pressure builds after I pump it a couple of times.

 

Guess you better start bleeding. I have one of these, worth every penny

Mityvac Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

 

Much better than having to buy a master cylinder.....

I'm thinking the order I should bleed them is: 1. pass rear, 2. driver rear, 3. pass front, and 4. driver front.

Probably need to remove the wheels...thoughts?

 

The service manual does not mention a proper sequence.
And yes, removing the wheel makes it much easier.

 

Thanks. Just ordered the bleeder kit, also. Looks like I'll have a nice task for the weekend. Wish it would warm up though, been unseasonably cool here in Oklahoma.

 

Give it two weeks.. then we'll be having hi temps of 95.. LOL.

 

A little tip when using this kit. Remove the bleeder screw, wrap the threads with Teflon tape. Don't block the hole. This will prevent a leak around the threads while you pull a vacuum. Also, watch the level in the reservoir. If it gets too low, you'll suck air into the system. This is also a good tool for flushing old fluid from the system.

 

If your car is a 2005, the rubber brake lines are about 8 years old, if I were you, when you are bleeding, make sure they are good, or be safe and replace them, then bleed...

 

Have any of you tried the Motive 0100 European Power Bleeder Kit? It's a little more expensive but hands off once the pressure is built up in the tank. As long as one doesn't go overboard pumping up the pressure they work great. I've used it for years on imports and domestics (different cap) with no issues.

 

[QUOTE=BoilerUpXFire;731429]If your car is a 2005, the rubber brake lines are about 8 years old, if I were you, when you are bleeding, make sure they are good, or be safe and replace them, then bleed...[/QUOTE

Good point. My 67 Mini Cooper had a problem with those when it was22 years old. The rubber brake lines were acting like check valves. They were so swollen on the inside, pressure could be forced through them to the wheel cylinders , but would not return, locking my brakes up.

 

Or just upgrade to a set of stainless steel lines

Goodridge G-Stop Brake Line Kit

 

I know this thread is somewhat dated, but before I left for China business trip a week ago, I took the coupe on a few errands. It had been sitting quite a bit over the winter season. Then when it warmed up a bit, I took the headliner out to have it recovered. Right after I re-installed the headliner, I cleaned up the car (prep for CAA8 trip) and took it for a spin.

I noticed I had a "spongy" brake pedal and never had this before. I've got Goodridge SS brake hoses all around (installed last fall), installed "brake bleeder" screws on all wheel cylinders, & filled the system with Pentosin brake fluid. Master Cylinder still shows full with clear brake fluid. Right after the brake line swap & brake system bleed/flush, the brake pedal was rock solid. Will leave for CAA8 on Saturday, 06/24, & wondering whether I need to change out a Master Cylinder. Irritating that this flared up with car just sitting there. I didn't run any codes before I left, and can do that easily when I return on 06/22. I'll have a full day to do some work before leaving, just wanted to hear folks suggestions on most likely cause of condition. But based on the searches I've conducted, looks like an internal leak in the Master Cylinder is most likely cause.

Any & all feedback is appreciated.

 

You have the bleeding order correct "1. pass rear, 2. driver rear, 3. pass front, and 4. driver front.
This applies to any car, you want to bleed the caliper that's furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the caliper closest to the master cylinder.

 

I'm having the same issue, if I don't drive the car for an an extended period the brakes get really spongy. It did it before so I flushed the original fluid and filled with Pentosin and that restored the firm pedal. Now it's back to to being spongy after not driving it for a month. Seems to be a common problem.