Hello and Thank you
I have a 2005 roadster. it is presenting a few electrical issues
1- The top doesnt go down. I follow the next table and found it to be a top control module DTC due to one beep and slow blinks
QUICK CHECK TABLE:

Symptom

Possible Cause

Solution

Convertible top switch lamp flashes slowly and a slow audible beep is heardDecklid openClose decklidCargo compartment divider not secured in vertical positionSecure dividerTop latched at windshield header before top cycle is started or completedUnlatch top from header, push top up, and depress the switch until a single audible tone soundsTop unlatched but not pushed up from windshield headerPut top in over center positionVehicle speed greater than 9 mph when initiating top operationStop the vehicleBattery voltage less than 10.6 VStart the engineRear spoiler is inoperativeFix the rear spoilerMaximum run time of hydraulic pump is exceededCheck for DTC in PTCM. Wait 30 minutes for the hydraulic pump to coolConvertible top switch lamp flashes quickly and a quick audible beep is heardVehicle speed is greater than 14 Km/h (9 mph) during top operationStop the vehicleTop operation suspended longer than 10 minutesPress convertible top switchWindows do not go down with D-ring releasedPower windows are inoperative or latch retainer switch stuck or faultyRepair/replace power windows or the latch retainer switch as necessaryConvertible top switch lamp flashes rapidlyGeneral top control module faultCheck power top control module DTC's and repair as indicated below




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2. Cooling fan works with direct 12v but not by cars self initiative. I read the next text and looks like the Fan Module or the power train control module are bad. (I tryed to directly connect the wires comming from the PTCM with the ones going to the fan. Nothing happened

FCM = Fan Control Module
PTCM = Power Train Control Module

On the FCM, there are two HEAVY wires that supply power to it, one is, of course, 12 volts, and one is ground. There are two HEAVY output wires, too - they go to the fan motor and are power and ground.

There is one single, small wire, it is GY (Gray) and is the two-way data link from the PTCM to the FCM.
There is another small wire, it is PK/RD (pink - red) and is the ignition switch input to the module.

Ok......

There is a single wire running from the PTCM to the FCM. This wire has 12 volts on it, the PTCM pulls this wire to ground in a series of pulses, the WIDER the pulses, the faster the FCM makes the fan run. (It does this by sending pulses of 12 volts to the fan motor, your meter will show 4 to 12 volts, but that's because your meter is averaging the pulses - DC motors are not usually run on low voltage for low speed, they are run on NORMAL voltage that is pulsed to get the right speed). Periodically, the FCM also pulls the line to ground - this tells the PTCM that the FCM is still working.

The PTCM turns the light on if it does not see the pulses coming back from the FCM.

Also, if the FCM does not see the pulses from the PTCM, it assumes something is wrong (which is the case) and that the engine's temperature is unknown (which is also true) so the FCM turns the fan on all the way. If the light is on and the fan is running full speed, there is a communication breakdown between the modules.

If the light is on and the fan is not working, then the big fuse to the FCM isprobably blown OR the FCM is bad. (I do not think the FCM can sense a bad fan motor.)

You can always unplug the fan motor from the FCM, the connector is clipped to the radiator support on the driver's side - use wires with the end stripped off and see if you can jumper the fan motor directly to the battery. If the motor turns, the FCM is bad. If the motor does NOT turn, the motor is bad.


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3. Radio and 4. Fuel Gauge dont have energy at all.

The rest of the car works like a charm. All this issues came almost at the same time after 6 month of unused and drained battery. On monday I'll take it to the shop but first I would like to know if these issues are interconnected or not.

Thank you.

 

Sounds like a bad battery to me.

Also, check the condition of the battery posts and cable terminals. Take the terminals off the posts and use a wire brush if they are corroded. Follow the battery ground cable down to where it fastens to the chassis. Mine was so bad at 5 years of age I replaced it with a new one from Autozone.

I sure hope you don't have water intrusion somewhere in a module, or rodent damage (chewed wires - happens a lot with cars that are stored).

If it is chewed wires, try to get insurance to help - cause you are in for it. Fixing the chewed wires is easy, FINDING the wires that are chewed may not be easy.

 

Excellent, Ty. I'll look for ground wire corroded or battery problems. I'll keep you updated

 

At no point in time have You mentioned that You have replaced the battery. You did mention that 6 months ago the battery fully discharged. ALL Your issues have been reported as signs of a bad/ old Battery. I knew my battery was going bad when My top light started flashing while I was driving down the road, and then the next day my car locks didn't want to work for a minute.

If Your Battery has not been replaced then You should do so. Walmart generally has the best price on these batteries.

 

I had forgot about this thread... but Roadsterguy is right - the FIRST thing I said in my post was that this sounds like a bad battery.

Do not overlook this - you can waste a LOT of time working on these cars when the only thing wrong is a bad battery. That is not a 100% guarantee it IS the battery, but experience shows that is where you should start.

In the OLD days, if the battery turned the engine over, that was all you needed from it. But today, it just isnt' the case any more.

 

Hello and thank u Again.
I tested the battery and found it was bad. Changed it2 days ago but problem persists. Should I reset the codes at my ECU or there is something else going on?

I was looking into the ECU box and found some peeled wires and one that looked like a wire bridge. I've hear that people do this to trick the top sensors. I forgot to say that the BES light, cooling system light and tire air pressure light of the dash were all on also.

Lee

 

Fan module was a recall item on our cars. If yours was never changed it should be done for free.

 

I just now saw this. Peeled wires? I have heard of mice getting in there and chewing wires when the car is allowed to sit for periods of time. Is there any chance this is what has happened?

I am not home right now, so I can't check, but I THINK all the top sensor wires go directly to the Top Control Module, not the BCM or PTCM/ECM. If someone wanted to bypass the divider or top open sensors, they could easily do that right at the sensors, they are out on plain sight!

The headliner sensor IS hidden in the windshield frame, and I think that one DOES go to the box where you are - but if you left it showing open, the console would beep as you drove down the road (and the light in the top switch would be on all the time). So, what you have heard does not quite add up.

 

Hello, I found fuse a fuse box with a 50A fuse in front of the ECM. this fuse control electric flow to the fan also. I changed it and voala... the fan is working and the coolant light went off.I Also dig behind the radio to see if that fuse was blown and voala... radio is working now. then went to the fuse box thinking the roof module fuse might be blown and NOT voala... it looked good. I am going to switch it any way but it might not be the problem. when I unlatch the roof windows go down and roof switch goes red, when I activate the roof switch and the light blinks rapidly without beeping. Battery is new, spoiler is in place, divider is also in place. besides the fuse what else could it be? the actual module?

Ahhh I forget, when I activate the convertible switch, there is a sound on the trunk besides the trunk lock. Is like a pump or something, it sounds for about 5 secs but nothing happen and then the light start blinking.

 

This sounds like the pump IS running, but either the valve assembly is not working right to sequence the flow to the right cylinders, or the fluid is low - due to a leak.

I suggest you go to the thread I posted here in this sub-forum called "Manual Top operation" and use the procedure to open the top - and stop when you get the cover up, you can then stand on the driver's side and look back in the fender well for leaking fluid - and check to see if there is fluid in the tank. The Hydralic tank is made of clear plastic, you should be able to see the fluid in the tank.

If there is no or very little fluid, I will bet you will find fluid down in the fender well. With age, the cylinder can develop bad seals. I think we all are eventually going to have problems with the hydraulic system.

 

Hello,
Where is the fuel gauge fuse?
I can't find it on the manual.

 

It does not have it's own fuse. It is part of the Body Module (I THINK, could be PTCM).


You really should click this link and download the SERVICE manual:
http://www.jodykrivohlavek.com/_docu...ice_Manual.pdf

 

My You are experiencing all the little issues. Hey the TPMS light is always an issue on these cars. Instead of replacing modules or batteries in the tires, I just did the mod to disconnect the light. I check My tires every time I gas up anyways.

The top issue sounds just like pizza said. Look around the vendors here. recently I saw a new member saying they were manufacturing replacement parts for the Hydraulics for our tops.

 

Yea, see post 7 in this thread:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...operation.html

 

I just left a detailed issue im having seems like same as this person with my cooling fan.. but where is the PTCM I have taken the FCM apart it didn't look fried someone who had car b4 me mucked up near FCM on this car I bought . . will the light go out once issue is fixed or do you need a dealer to reset it ? my A/C doesn't work either

 

wow really then the car I have may never had it done, how would you know ? would you caller dealer to see if the FCM was switched out ? I just bought my car with issues thats why I got it cheap

 

Who are you asking and what are you responding to?

Go back to the post you are reading, and hit' "QUOTE" and then reply, that way, we know what you are referring to.
That is how I got your quote in my post.

Then, we can go from there.

 

So, in reading all these post's, what is the cure for a engine fan not running? Is it the 50 amp fuse? Is it the battery? Or is in the control module? Can someone make this a little more clear for me? I'm not being sarcastic, just want to know what works.

Jim

 

The system is rather basic, but not simple.

The 50 amp fuse powers the Fan control module.
When you turn the key on, a small "IGN" wire powers the 'brain' of the FCM.
As soon as the ECM powers up, it starts sending very short pulses to the FCM, the FCM repsonds with it's own pulse.
If the ECM wants the fan to run, it widens the pulses it sends to the FCM.

If the FCM does not get pulses from the ECM, it spins the fan up to "warp speed" to protect the engine from overheating.
If the ECM does not get the return pulses from the FCM, it lights the "general cooling alarm system alarm" light. (Referred to as the "Low Coolant light")

if the Fan wont run but the warning light isnt on, then the FCM is responding to the ECM but the FCM is not running the fan OR the fan motor is bad.
Usually, if the FCM sees that the fan motor is not running right (current is too high or low), it will stop sending pulses to the ECM so the warning light will come on.
But the FCM CAN fail in such a way that the pulses go out, and the ECM thinks things are OK.

One way to test the motor, unplug it and make jumper wires up and power hte fan motor right from the battery. If it runs fast, it's good -replace the FCM.
If the motor wont run, replace the motor.