I just worry about those times at stoplights, where you lean on the console to grab something out of the glove box and accidentally hit the button...............


I do stuff like that.

 

To clarify what I posted before, the switch in the yellow circle is available. If that is what is defective, you can get them.

The ENTIRE assembly is another matter.

 

The switch in the yellow circle is what I need. My spring goes up/down great. If you can post please any link or photo of the model, I will say thank you 20 times.

 

This should work :
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...%252B54g%3D%3D

 

I KNEW it was George that would come up with a source.

 

Thanks for the Omron item. I will look it and try to buy 2-3 to test them. I hope all my problem was that.

 

what i find extends the life of the switch is to cut the dust boot off. it seems like it gets stiff over time and doesn't allow the switch to fully depress.

 

I was thinking the same, to cutt the dust boot off, because Mine works but sometimes it stays pushed so the roof doesnt open. I put some wd40 oil and work better but maybe best option is cut that and if doesnt work, cut the wires and put them together.

 

It'll most likely work. If it doesn't make sure your front bow detent tensor cords are in good shape and holding the front bow in the proper position and high enough to keep the switch released. I personally have never had issues after the dust boot has been removed.

 

Red Green would have used duct tape, but I do not know how, sorry.

 

If anyone discovers the that their "roof open" microswitch located on the passenger side roof rail is defective, I would recommend bypassing it by splicing the wires together. (I did because I couldn't find the replacement switch anywhere) For those who are worried that there is risk of hitting and or holding the button down might engage the hydraulics and potentially damage the pumps should know that the roof has to go through several other procedures (Cycles) before the roof has to go down into the well. IE rear window lifts up, trunk panel raises up, rear window goes back down, THEN the roof starts retracting into the trunk. That's when the risk occurs. That is a loooong time to realize that your roof is still attached to your windshield frame.

Another roof Pro tip. I had window that would not go down and it ended up being the BCM. I ordered a replacement BCM on ebay and it solved the window problem but then the ROOF would not go down Problem solved: If you order a replacement BCM for your roadster MAKE SURE it came off of a convertible!