Fellow members,
My SRT-6 roadster has been at an AMG/Mercedes service shop for over a month because they can't figure out how to set/adjust the sensors on the Convertible top. It was originally in there to replace a leaky hydraulic cylinder and was initially working but now It apparently starts to go up and then stops and they don't know why. They have the SRT-6 service manual and the wiring information from a post on this site, but it hasn't helped. The only solution I see is to try and get the Chrysler diagnostic tool to try and troubleshoot but they don't have one and that would require me taking the car to the Chrysler dealership (I fret just the thought). The shop has been very cooperative and is now asking for our help. Any links, or recommendations/advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

 

My first thought is, how is the fluid level?

 

Which cylinders did you replace?

 

The shop replaced one or two of the cylinders but I don't have the details. I was under the impression talking to them that they inspected all of the cylinders and only replaced the one or two that seemed to have leaks and then refilled with fluid, but I can check with them. He mentioned that the sensors are potentiometers and he was unsure what to set them at. I assume this means what voltage equals what current.

 

The sensors are NOT potentiometers, they are Hall effect switches ( on or off ).
From the manual :

 

 

Each cylinder operates a differant phase of moving the top up or down so if the top was operating okay before the cylinders were replaced it might help to figure outif we knew which ones were changed.

 

No, it has been there because no one has sat down to read the description of how the system operates. First, there is no adjustment that I know of for the sensors, (maybe Klaus will correct me), they are LIMIT SWITCHES, they change state (from 'open' to 'closed' or 'closed' to 'open') when the cylinder reaches the ends of it's travel (that is, either "all in" or "all out"). As the sequence progresses, if the TCM fails to see the change of state when it expects it, it will eventually stop the motor OR the pressure in the line will get so high that the motor lags due to the overload of trying to move a cylinder that can't move anymore.

Given what LITTLE I have to go on, my guess is the sensor(s) on the cylinder(s) they worked on are the issue - this has been seen before. What happened the last time (and I was not there, just helped the guy on here) was that they didn't actually have the wire connected/secure on the terminal at the cylinder. The owner, after I told him to LOOK CAREFULLY, found it with the 'tech' standing there red-faced.

Here is what I understand has gone on:

• The top was fine, but there was a leak - nothing else was wrong.
• You had a leaking cylinder - so you took it to a shop to get that fixed.
• They replaced/repaired the cylinder.
• The top worked a few times but you had to take it back when it quit working.
• In the process of putting the cylinder back, they did not connect the wires to one or more sensors correctly or completely.
• In the process of putting the top up or down, there is a point where it quits moving. This is your big clue: WHEN does it stop moving? THAT tells you what sensor is not reporting correctly.
• If you want my help, find out:
  • EXACTLY at what point the top stops moving ( a short video would help a lot)
  • Will the top work in reverse at that point and go back down correctly? (a continuation of the video would help a lot as well)

This should not be this hard, but because our entire country has abandoned learning and teaching how to troubleshoot electronics, while embracing electronics in every aspect of life - it IS this hard. It's gonna get a lot worse when dinosaurs like me die off.

 

Not a bad question to ask.

 

Get the details.... And don't skip over the "how's the fluid level" question.

 

+1 on that remark!
Gene Kranz, Apollo 13 flight director: "Let's not make things worse by guessing..."

 

Thanks guys for the assistance. Regarding the answers to your questions on Fluid Levels and cylinders that were replaced, I will forward this thread onto the shop. I believe they are truly grateful for the assistance and may have some questions of their own. They told me they've replaced and fixed dozens of SLK tops, but this one has them scratching their heads..

 

Spoke with matt (miamimatt) he has read this thd and was just too busy to answer. another reason he has not answered is because the car is in their shop, most likely they would not let him work on it,, (so for him to work on it you would have to take it out of their shop.. In about ten days he is going to California to fix a top, . he said to me he could leave south fl early , stop and fix yours. he has the computer to do so,, you can call his shop at 786 877 5959 . this is the only way i can help you as i know nothing about the top myself. good luck jim

 

I wonder if they could have reversed the limit switches on 1 or both of the cylinders. If you left the wires/sensors kind of in the same position when they were removed probably not but if they stretched the wire out as they removed them then they could've reversed them. Just a thought since I had 2 cylinders rebuilt and when I reinstalled them I could see this happening.

 

Could be. Like I said, it went in to the shop working - and during the work, something was not put back right - it has happened COUNTLESS times before, not just with our tops.
I'd bet tomorro'ws lunch at Outback that they either have a sensor(s) connected incorrectly, or not at all.

IT COULD be something else, but not very likely, if the top moves then stops in the cycle, you have a sensor not reporting, or not reporting correctly - or you have low fluid.

 

All,
Thank you again for all of your help. MiamiMatt has been in contact with the shop and helped them out with some of their issues and given some recommendations but nothing has worked. According to the shop the problem is the light is continuing to blink on the top raise/lower button; When pressed nothing happened. Fluid levels are all good and two main cylinders were rebuilt by Top Hydraulics and the sensors were snapped in where they were removed. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot the blinking light? The shop has disconnected the battery for a night and reconnected in the morning to no avail. These guys do hundreds of SL and SLK tops all the time, but the error codes they are getting from their aftermarket reader with the SLK32 software give nonsense feedback like 'back windows are down'. They don't have a reader for our car and neither does any Chrysler shop in Town!

Thanks for all of the advice in advance.

-Greg

 

If the light is blinking ALL the time, it may just need re-syncing.

Start engine.
Put top COMPLETELY up and down manually three times.
Try button again, if it works, it had just lost sync.

I can't believe I didn't mention this before. I THOUGHT I did, but I don't see it in the thread.

The procedure is NOT in the manual, but I show you how here:

 

Really a well done DIY video on manually opening & lowering the roadster's top. Saved the link under my Crossfire folder in Google.

 

i'm not sure if you have it fixed yet but i live a few hours south and could help if you can get the car to me. i have the scan tool and know the convertible top system.

 

Update:
Well unfortunately, the Raise/lower 3 times advice didn't work and blinking light remains on. The shop has run out of ideas, so I have decided to pull the plug and take the car back unfixed. :-(

DualSportDad - I have family in Ft. Myers and can bring the car your way. Please Message me your information
MiamiMatt - I will text you about your upcoming trip out west

Thanks to everyone again!
-Greg