Ok thank you for checking for me. I'm not sure how best to go from here without raising too much suspicion. I may go by there and get some things out of the car and see if I can take a pic of the pulley and what exactly failed.

Thanks again!

 

Great idea. email the pic to attn: Lee at asp@aspracing.com He'll be waiting for it.

 

Ok, just sent the pics and talked to the Chrysler mechanic a little.

Apparently what happened is the bearings inside the pulley failed. This created a bad wobble that in turn damaged the water pump and belt.

The dealer is still waiting on parts. I don't know what's going to happen when they try to install the OEM pulley. I also wonder how much that water pump and install is going to cost me if they deny the warranty work because of the different pulley.

I sent the pic to ASP and look forward to their response.

 

The WP pulley doesn't have a bearing. The idler pulley does but that's not part of the ASP pulley kit. The WP pulley just fit's over the water pump and bolt in with 4 little bolts. Is that the part you took the picture of. If you don't mine email me the pic as well. You may of had a factory pulley fail. Or the possibility the bearings inside the water pump failed and caused the pulley to get off center and possibly fail.

 

the h2o pulley does nto have a bearing from asp, sounds like it was the oem bearing that failed, was the asp pulley damaged? the water pump pulley is held on with 4 bolts.

 

You are right, ASP just told me the same thing. Now i'm confused. I sent the pics of the pulley and the apparently the stripped or damaged part on the car that the pulley was connected to. It's confirmed to be the idler pulley. If that's stock then why did ASP say send it in for an exchange?

 

Just seen your pics and it's the idler pulley, and it is from ASP pulley kit.

 

good thing the stock one will fit, but the belt will be just a bit tighter. It's about 3/4" bigger in diameter. Tell them to overnight you one and you overnight yours. The dealer won't get a new one by then anyway. It really looks like rust was a factor in that bearing failing. Mine looks nothing like that.

 

So did the guys goof this all up? What does the water pump and pulley have to do with this? Should I call them up?

 

They should know it's the idler pulley, but talk to the mechanic and make sure he knows that's it. Let them put a factory one on so you have a back up. I don't see that pulley failing very often. If you can get one from ASP before then, have them install that one. Most dealerships don't see an SRT6 often enough to know what's stock or not.

 

Looking at that picture it looks like the housing at the top is broken. See below where arrow is pointing. It looks hollow to me. If that is part of the water pump housing then they would have to replace it. That might be their logic. Ask lots of questions if in doubt. Good luck.


MikeR

 

That bearing looks like its been sitting at the bottom of the sea! Why so much Rust?

 

I really have no idea why. Nothing around it looks like that. Maybe an early version.

 

maybe its aftermarket, not original or ASP...does someone have contact with the previous owner...when I put on my code 3 pulley, someone mentioned I should go to bigger idler pulley since I reduced the size of the SC pulley in order to prevent slippage...I didn't do it...but others may have tried this mod...you just neve know when you aren't original owner...I can't see me ever selling my car, but if I did, I quess I should leave a note somewhere on the car with a list of mods...

 

If ya look up Abe old threads he was pissed about that happening!

 

Yep good call.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...highlight=rust

 

This thing rusted itself to death and thus caused some other damage apparently.

Now I'm in a pickle because the dealer wants the rusted pulley to return to MB for the warranty repair; and ASP want's it as well to exhange for a replacement.

If I say nothing and let them install the stock Idler I think it may go unnoticed if it fit's ok. Problem is, I then won't have the pulley to exchange for the ASP replacement. Wish they would just do it with the pics I sent. Does ASP really need more proof?

 

Anyone have a link or diagram of the pulley system that labels what each pulley is on the car?

 

Lotus,
Look at the third post in this link. Robbie posted a diagram of the belt system as my wp pulley just broke a few weeks ago. I put on the longer belt to take some of the tension off the pulleys. So far I'm not seeing or "feeling" any slippage. The factory belt is about 114.8 inches and the one I put on is 115.3. I think these are the correct numbers. It was about $35 from NAPA and was much easier to put on that I thought the job would be. If your water pump doesn't need replacing, I'd replace the pulley and belt yourself. If you don't have any real idea of what you're doing, you should be able to change this pulley and belt in about an hour.
I went with the bigger belt because my tensioner was about maxed out after the crank pulley upgrade. Now it's about centered like it was stock. Hope this helps.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=28401

Get that belt changed and come down to the Tail of the Dragon next weekend. You'll have a chance to meet about 40 other Crossfire members.

Toy

 

Toy you have a 185mm pulley though. The 178mm really feels about the same as the stock set up. With the crank being slightly bigger and the others being smaller. I believe the stock belt is 114.5 I just bought a mercedes one and it fit great. I can still grab the belt and give it a little tug. Does the Napa belt have the same amount of ribs as the factory? I think they are 8 rib. If so do you have a part number. I'd like to see if they have a 114.5 ribbed one for that kind of money.