doc, alaxfire, and rfourt - thank you all for the input. I am going to inspect the pedal assembly and throttle wiring when I have an opportunity. I also am going to do a hard reset by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Doing a hard reset (disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes) with my Jeep Wrangler seems to do wonders for how smooth the engine runs.

JHM2K - You still have me scared enough that I am replacing the IC Pump with the Bosch.

Will probably have a used Johnson up for sale in a month or so.

 

Didn't mean to scare you... FWIW, I'm keeping my Johnson

I'll simply split the system (the increased flow is a good thing), and the only detriment is the high-pressure OEM setup. You can split the system and retain the high-flow pump, get cooler IATs, and relieve the pressure on the IC. Win-win-win.

Some folks in the warm climates (AKA Florida) can get away with running a distilled water/water-wetter mix in the segregated IC system, but if you experience freezing temps where you live, then I'd stick with the 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled water just to be on the safe side.

Once I obtain the new intercooler, I'll be doing the same thing.

 

Thanks again for all of the input. To make sure I understand when you are referring to splitting the system, you are talking about the NeedsWings Intercooler Fluid Isolation Kit that sells for around $70 right? NeedsWings Intercooler Fluid Isolation Kit

 

You are correct sir!

 

Just wanted to post another update on this for the records. Yesterday drove the car to work and during the day ran out to fill up the tank - car worked great. On my way home from work car running great and then all of a sudden the "dead" pedal came back - as if the throttle response just evaporated so that I would have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to move the car forward. No CEL this time. Later that night, I did a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and also pulled off the driver footwell paneling to check the Sprint Booster connection to the throttle body wiring. The wiring seemed fine, and after doing the hard reset the car drove great as usual to work.

Will post updates if the symptom recurs.

 

mrobinso - just in case you need it, the latest version of the I/C pump by Bosch is part number 0392022010. I put one on mine and it is a direct fit, size and wiring. Although, you already have a Johnson installed, so your wiring and mounting bracket will need to be put back to OEM if you use the Bosch. Just something to think about.

Good luck - hope you get it figured out.

RL

 

Appreciate that! I actually ordered that Bosch part yesterday and hope to have it by next week.

 

Let's hope that solved it for now. I would say it is giving you warning though....good luck

 

Agreed. I kind of am wondering if the N/A (auto) sprint booster is messing up the throttle inputs as they go into the computer and it needed a reset.

 

Was doing a little Googling on my hunch that the Sprint Booster may be scrambling my throttle linkage and found this random post over on CorvetteForum.com. The limp throttle sounded familiar..

I was curious so I decided to buy one and try it out on my truck before adding one to my vette...well, my experience was negative;
it damaged the throttle switch, and put the truck into limp mode, I removed it, but the damage was done. I took the truck back to the dealer ( fingers crossed ); they eneded up replacing the throttle switch and later the ecm as a result. I played stupid and asked "what happened ?!?" & they told me the pedal switch had a short in it which had damaged the ecm. So, buyer be ware!!
On the upside, Sprint Booster was gracious enough to refund my money ,very quickly, no questions asked,(I have to wonder why), but they would not admit it was their gizmo that damaged my trucks electronics. So, if I had been out of warranty, I would have also been out of luck, and with a large repair bill to boot.
I'm happy that you gents have had good experiences with the thing, but I wouldn't risk it on my prize pocession,From Experience...
just a suggestion, If you're thinking about buying one,phone them up first and ask them what they would do for you if this happened to you after using their product on your vehicle, and have them put it in writting, in laymans terms , not lawyer speak...

BTW, I've since bought a ported LS7 TB for my truck and am enjoying very noticeable throttle response & torque improvements all accross the rpm range, a custom is recommended but not required if the porter knows what he's doing, so I'll be doing the same with my vette.

regards,

Joe

 

This thread is even more relevant to the issue because it is from MBWorld regarding the C32...

http://m.mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=188570

"So there is an A2 version . . . hmmm. My sprintbooster throws me into limp mode under certain conditions, and it's just the A version. The A2 might cure this problem. Who are you speaking to regarding this? Can you PM me their contact info? Thanks"

"The problem seems to happen on heavily modded C32s with sprintboosters, especially in cold weather. I know of a handful of people that have the issue. It really is the booster that pushes it into limp. I first thought it was the plugs/wires too, but it isn't. Put the booster on = limp mode, remove it = no limp."

Interesting... anyone else on here heard of this with their Sprint Booster? I have the Non-AMG Sprint Booster for models 2000-2009...

 

http://forums.5series.net/topic/7983...oster-problem/

Another thread on the topic, one individual mentioned it happened on rainy/humid days, which is the same type of weather that we were experiencing when I ran into this problem.

my engine had the cut out problem at start up occasionally, usually in very humid/raining days.

 

Once, I thought my Johnson was failing......then I realized that she was just really ugly.

 

That's because you sobered up too soon ......

 

This thread has gone nowhere quick.
1, I would remove the Sprint Booster at once, it is for an NA and maybe they do not match up to the SRT. Get rid of one possible cause for a problem.

2, I would get the code read, just because the light is not on does not mean that a fault has not been recorded.

3, My 300 had off on and off limp modes, no acceleration, one gear. It was the electrical plate in the tranny and one rebuilt solenoid later it was back to normal. If you are not aware of the one gear situation you may not realize you only have one gear. It has the same NAG1 tranny basically.

As a safety feature I doubt the SC would engage if the car was in a tranny induced limp mode. After all it is called limp mode not sprint mode. LOL

 

I didn't realize... will try to go to AutoZone soon to get it read. Thanks for the input.