Originally Posted by bruco1 (Post 706738)

standard MB practice for a blown fuse was to replace the pump until they found out surge current was tripping it lol

Originally Posted by robby363 (Post 706739)

Maybe that's why they used a 10 amp fuse for the SRT6.

Originally Posted by latemodel21 (Post 706746)

My SRT6 documentation shows F13 as a 5amp ... if that was changed to a 10amp ... well, that supports my theory : )

Chris

Originally Posted by robby363 (Post 706750)

This is from the SRT6 service manual.

Originally Posted by latemodel21 (Post 706694)

here is the part of the schematic that shows the entire IC pump circuit. It is designated as "M44".

The relay that you seek is part of the "N65" Pulse Module. it is located in the same box as the fuse (drivers side on real cars ... passenger side on yours : )

However, I have NEVER ever heard of this (relay) being the failure. with rare exception, the pump fails (fuse blows) by 20,000 to 30,000 miles AND replacing the pump and fuse solves the problem.

Worth noting on my 1st SLK32 (which I bought at 30,000 miles) the pump was not running when I bought it. the fuse was blown and I replaced it (fuse only) ... and it worked (until 50,000 ?) when the fuse blew agian ... once more I replaced it (fuse only) and it lasted for more than 10,000 or 20,000 additional miles until it blew one more time (and this time the pump actually had failed) So. I finally replaced the pump for the FIRST time near 80,000 miles. NOW, on my 3rd SLK32, I bought it with 17,000 miles AND ITS FUSE WAS BLOWN ALSO when I bought it. I replaced the fuse and have put 1,000 miles on it since and it is still working fine. MY POINT... while this part does NOT last the life of the car, I Suspect it is slightly under-fused and often prematurely replaced. (I seem to recall a mention somewhere that a higher value fuse is used in other models, but never looked into it.

Hope the schematic helps,
Chris

Originally Posted by scottevil (Post 912719)

Well, you can write it down, you have NOW heard of the relay going bad: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post912718

Originally Posted by latemodel21 (Post 912721)

I will write it down when I hear that replacing the relay solved the problem : )



if you log the drive side of the relay (or replace the relay) you should have something more definitive

cheers,
Chris

Originally Posted by scottevil (Post 919545)

Fair :-) Well, minimally, it was not the pump. For me, doing the jumper in the box on the driver's side did the trick. One can only deduce that it was the relay, as the computer seems to be reading temps correctly (based on Torque). If it wasn't the relay, it would have to be a glitch with the computer, which I find very implausible. Changing the relay though, is beyond what I want to do with this car :-)

Originally Posted by scottevil (Post 919590)

Chris,
That is dead on. Sorry for being lazy and not citing the N65 diagram and post. My brain is so overloaded with work stuff that I didn't have the energy to reply with detail. That bit about testing E5 is really, really interesting. I may do this, just because the engineer side of my brain hates not knowing. I have the car stored for the winter, but will dig it back out in the spring and test.

I would like to help others who might be in the same situation. Is the relay replaceable? I would prefer to fix this right, then have the jumper between E2 and E7...

Best Regards
Scott M