Perhaps I should have clarified more... the pics from Brian's thread are indeed ones of a resonator delete... but if you look closely, there are two connector flanges right after the cats, THEN you see the H-Pipe (post cats). Rob's downpipes are set up to use factory connection points IIRC... so the assembly should simply swap out with the OEM mid-section w/ cats. Therefore, the H-pipe would be in place to equalize flow. No "need" for an X-pipe.

That being said, the X-pipe does a better job of equalizing pressure while preserving HP. So, one could install an X-pipe after Rob's downpipes (in place of the H) and get an extra horse or two, plus a slightly different tone. We're not talking massive differences, but the sound might be noticeable.

BrianBrave used a NICE X-pipe from Burns Stainless. He gave all the specs in his resonator delete thread. If cost is an issue, Magnaflow makes a decent one as well. It can be found on ebay.

 

Doh! I see where you're goin now. My problem with the X pipe is what size of pipe. Brian shows a Y pipe with 2-3/4" size. Yet all I'm able to find is mainly 2-1/4, 2-1/2 & 3" Xs from Magnaflow, Duramax and others. I even asked in a separate thread whether anyone could give me the p/n to the one they have used with only vague responses about what others thought were being used. But never any definite answers.
I'm not worried so much about the cost as I am about the quality/workmanship of the part. Seen them running from $25 to over $100.

 

I'm really liking this discussion, as I am currently looking into how I'll go about it also. Although the X-pipe apparently produces better flow and scavenging and perhaps a little h.p., it may give up some of the low end torque that we all like. For all out race and 1/2 mile event(like Les), the better top end would be good, but for auto-x and daily grunt it may not be a good thing. I'd love to hear some feedback from those that have the downpipes and have added the X-pipe in addition to the H-pipe, or removed the H-pipe in favor of the X-pipe. Is it worth the time and money? Regarding the X-pipe size; Brians merge collector inlets are 2-3/8" I think, so the pipe going in would be 2-1/4" I believe. I'm going to climb under the car this afternoon w/ my calipers and see what I've got.

On edit: I also wanted to clarify. Les has graciously offered his shortened NW's downpipes to me, so I need to piece together the back half of Rob's DP's, and have the opportunity to throw an X-pipe in there if it's a no-brainer. I'm just not quite convinced yet that it's the way to go. Any X-men out there for feedback?

 

I think I've seen 2 1/2" for srt6 and 2 1/4" on the N/A. I hope to have someone correct me if I am wrong or verify with a source. I could not find it anywhere in the manual.


The last post in this thread a member measured his srt6 exhuast at two different places.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ng-tubing.html

 

An interesting thread...

H-pipe vs X-pipe - great article to clear up some of the confusion... - MBWorld.org Forums

So, if you do the pipes and feel the sound is a bit "harsh" then the X might be the way to go.

I will most likely have Burns whip up an X for me this summer... I like it fast and quiet(er).

 

I have the exhaust parts in a box that will work with slight modification. Do the X pipe. My shop tells me headers don't do anything for most modern cars (new Mustang 5.0's for example) but an X pipe does. Go figure. The SRT exhaust is 2 1/4 outside diameter until the resonator.

Les

 

Thank you Les, PM sent. I want to keep the H-pipe and back for easy return to stock, so I'm hoping an X-pipe(in place of where the rear cats once lived) and the stock H-pipe will be a good thing.

 

So remove the muffler and have a straight through exhaust??

Does that have any potential issues for the car??

Nice tail pipe by the way

 

I was never sold on the magnaflow sound, but I still love the sound of my setup. It is a custom 3 inch catback with a one in two out hooker aero chamber muffler. No resonater. It does have drone around 2500 RPM. I installed dynamat to the trunk area to drown some of the noise out.

 

As you probably know, it has been done many ways , and is a personal choice after perusing all the many threads about exhaust modifications. But; to answer your question, The only "potential issue" would be sound(decibels), and would have no ill affect on your car.

 

No doubt that Burns makes the sweetest SS parts and pieces, but have you checked out the cost of one of their X-pipes for us? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm seeing about $400.+ shipping. Looks like it's going to be a 2-1/4" SS Magnaflow for me. I've got an E-Bay seller willing to send me one for $82. I was considering a 304SS generic one I saw for a lot less on E-Bay, but I like the better shape(tru-X)of the Magnaflow; and the name brand assurance. All the parts and pieces are sure adding up; and then there's going to be some labor cost(welding)as well. All I have is an arc welder, and there's no way I'm going to try and attempt that. After fabbing, I'll probably get some 1/16"ss rod to tack it all up, and then bring the pipes to a good tig welder in town.

 

Very good prices here on Jones Exhaust SS X-pipes w/ free shipping...

Online performance car parts site Performance-Curve.com carries Nissan performan - Search - Page 2

 

I'll check that out; thanks for the link. Is this the one you went with?

 

After some lengthy discussions with Anthony, I'm considering something completely unorthodox.

Everyone is looking for the best system that makes power (none do) and one that doesn't increase drone (all do).

Rather than spend $1,000 for 5 horsepower and an intolerable interstate cruise, I'm simply going to weld in some cutouts (manual) to the existing mid-pipe for the track. Uncork them when I race, and cruise in silence and comfort the remaining 99.9% of the time. I have to retain one set of cats for emissions, so the catless $1,000 downpipes simply aren't an option. No other "downstream" exhaust mods have added power -- only noise.

Still considering the rear cat delete/X-pipe, simply because it's mild enough to not affect the drone adversely, removes some weight, and I can legally get away with it.

The cutouts are good for 4mph in the 1/4 mile... maybe even more in the 1/2 . When I get done, bolt the covers back on.

 

Still waiting to get some definitive answers from anyone who has done the mod. I keep seeing answers from members who THINK they know how it was done, but I can't find anyone who will divulge exactly how they did it and what size x-pipe they used. What I'd like to know is if they slid the exhaust over the x-pipe fitting, or if they got a larger dia. to slide over the exhaust pipe, or did they get the exact size to weld the butt joint? Also, does the center-to-center on the x-pipe matter? And does it matter as far as the material used? If our exhaust is made of steel, could you actually weld SS to it, or would we be better off with the regular steel type? If I get my answers, I'll be going with one of the stamped Jones pipes. They are on par with the Magnaflow for nearly 1/2 the price!

 

I'm using a custom 3" SS true dual exhaust with racing cats, x-over and magnaflow race specific mufflers.
Dyno results: EXHAUST ONLY on stock tune GAINS 17HP 18TQ

on the street:
on the dyno:

hope this helps.

 

I swapped out the stock H pipe w/4 cats on my Mustang GT for a PYPES X pipe with twin high flow cats. These pass emissions inspection (no MIL light either) and don't restrict flow. They sell them separately, so if you're up for some welding or have a custom exhaust shop near you, this is an option. X pipes give a nasty almost exotic sound to the exhaust, especially with straight through Magnaflow mufflers. I would think they'd have a similar effect on the SRT-6, but I'm leaving mine stock for now anyway.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here with this suggestion. Instal what you have, get some flexible tubing (Pep boys) and some clamps and hook it up yourself. That way you have time to think about it, see if you like it, don't have to deal with shop legalities etc. The stock section unbolts from the manifolds, transmission bracket and pulls out of the resonator in one ...... well one long piece each side. I'll bet you could get it together for $50.00.

Les

 

I want to have it done right the first time. I KNOW it's been done. Just need to know what size "X" was used by those who have done it. I'm only deleting the rear cats and H pipe and slapping an X pipe in their place. The resonator is staying put so no need for a "Y" custom.

If the pipes are 2-1/4" up to the res, then should I be using a 2-1/2" X-pipe to slide over, or 2-1/4" X-pipe and butt weld it?

 

2.25" X, and neither option.

Most exhaust shops have pipe "spreaders" that can flare the ends of a pips so they fit snugly over each other. Do that, and secure the pipes with a clamp. Butt-welding can create turbulence in the pipe, if the welder isn't very skilled.