my SRT6 will not manually shift gears no matter what I do. I'm not sure where to look for answers. I've checked the fluid - full, can't find a leak underneath. does this indicate the "selenoid plate" is bad? any suggestions would help.

 

Are you in "limp mode" where it basically won't shift out of 2nd gear?

 

no limp mode, just auto shift only. if I pull the shifter to the left no downshift, to the right no upshift.

 

Well, that's a new one for me. Perhaps someone else can chime in on a similar experience.

 

Just a wild thought.. I've never tried playing with mine with the S - W switch in the W mode... If your in W mode would the computer say "Really?" if you decided to performance shift?

And I only throw this out because after a day at work and out to lunch and nearing home I noticed I was in W mode..it was muddy in my drive and I went to it the night before.... Before the tune, throttle body, and intake upgrade it was real obvious in the NA. Figure A six is going to be even less obvious over my meager upgrades.

 

AFAIK the Winter mode only changes the take off gear.
In Summer you get to take off in 1st, in Winter mode it takes off in 2nd so that your wheels dont rotate so "quickly" in the snow.
I dont believe there are any other changes.

 

Like I said.. A long shot.. figured if someone "knew" better they would chime in.

 

if your shifter has an "implausible" input from the touchshift, it will disable the touch-shift. NOT saying this is a likely circumstance ... just saying that this will happen. The cause for this that I have seen is either up or down (in the touchshift part of the shifter) is shorted to ground, Normally, activating up,+ or down,- shorts that line to ground ... that is how that circuit works HOWEVER, when this is done while the shifter in NOT in DRIVE ... it can disable the touchshift until the next time you restart the car.

no simple way to detect this without hooking the car up to a star tester or reading the voltage at the switches (both are at 5vdc when open).

a foreign object may have made its way into your shifter and is shorting out one of the switches. wont say its the only way this would happen ... just the only way i am aware of .



OR, if the fingers in the down (-) switch have broken or are no longer making contact (when shifting down) this would also cause this same issue ....




I cant find a picture of the "fingers" of these switches, but here is the contact plate that they slide on completing there respective up and down circuits ...




swapping in another shifter or inspecting the internals of this one are what you are likely going to have to do.

Chris

 

I'm not sure this is still live SailorS, but we possibly need some more clarification.

Your car has an auto box with a +/-. Unless you have the TCU mod for mnual and auto (not quite clear from your post) your +/- will only limit the max gear the box will run to up to 6200rpm when it will auto shift regardless of what gear you have dialed in.

So for example: If you minus (-) to 3rd - where I spend most of my <35mph driving around town....it should show a 3 on the dash. Our car will only go to 1st....to about 2500rpm, 2nd....to about 2500rpm and then third....but stay there all the way up to 6000rpm....(numbers depend on load, throttle position and the tranny's memory of your style - adaptation)
If - during this time you hit plus (+) your dash should notch up to 4 - the same 1st and 2nd applies, but 3rd also will then change to 4th at or around 2500rpm. It'll stay in 4th until it hits 6200rpm (at about ~107mph mnd you!.....)

As I stated in a previous post, for a stock tranny - W only limits your intial takeoff gear to 2nd, whereas put it in S and it will take off in 1st gear. I dont believe there are any other idiosyncrasies with W. That is in as far as change rpm etc.

Now if you have the specific (and after market ...paid for....) TCU tune where W is manual mode - then it should hold all gears up unitl the preset change limit (normally 6200rpm but can be ordered from the supplier at a higher number) at which the more recent TCU tunes will autoshift up to the next gear. Older TCU tunes had a problem where they bounced of the rev limiter and didnt autoshift up.....not so good.....

As long as your dash advances to a certain gear as you plus/minus - it should follow the example above. Otherwise as latemodel has indicated, your selector switches may be playing up.

 

for clarification,


stock auto trans
no tune/mod
+/- has no effect at all at any rpm
dash shows no gear changes


I guess I'll have to remove the shifter and inspect/clean the "fingers" as suggested
and just to be clear there are no slippage, etc.
I changed the trans filter and fluid earlier this year.

 

If you have lost the conductor plate, then your car will be in limp mode and stuck in first gear (in S mode).
Try a TCU reset.

• Key in ignition to Position 2 (instrument cluster lights but not ignition).
• Place foot on throttle for at least 5 seconds
• With foot still on throttle...Turn key to off position but dont pull out
• Take foot off throttle
• Sit in the car for at least 2 minutes and dont touch anything - doors/windows or anything.
• Remove Key

Your TCU has been reset back to factory firmware and intermittent faults have been cleared.

PS - it's derivation of your driving style (adaptation) will also be lost and will require 40 shifts to relearn you, so drive it as you would like it to be remembered.

See if that helps.

$150-180 + install gets you an new conductor plate for the 722.6 tranny.
But much a DIY if you have some mech skills.