I recently purchased my car and since i had owned a SLK i noticed right off that it was not working. It just feels dead no click either way. There was also a side marker light out. During the negotiations they agreed to fix those problem's. Went there today and they were looking into it and the service manager said they were trying to source the part but it was comming back as a complete unit that costs over $2,000.

I was told to take it home while they look into it more. I think they are going to try a fast one with me even though i have it all in writing.

No real question here just yacking. Has any one else have that go out? I live in California so will probably never use it anyways

 

Side marker lights usually have a bad contact that should touch the bulb, bend it if that is the problem.
The switch is a different problem.

 

That S/W switch is in fact NOT a switch in the normal terms.
It moves a metal piece between a sensor, I'm not sure if the sensor is a Hall Effect or a photocell.
In "S", the sensor is blocked, unblocked in "W".
If yours acts like it is always in "S", then could be some trash in it.
A 193 545 0232 is on the sub assembly I have.

Both Mercedes and Chrysler say it is not a separate part, you have to buy the entire shift a$$embly.

I would suggest it is junkyard time.

 

I'm sure you know this already - but S=1st gear take off ok....W = 2nd gear takeoff engaged - to avoid wheel spinning in the snow.

 

Yes. Thanks for all the information all.

The dealer said when i bought it they would fix it for me. I bet now they wished they had never said that and it will be interesting where this goes with them.

 

ChrisA...Watch out for those Stealerships...they'll drain you financially dry!!!...Have you checked the bulb ( very inexpensive)...just take a credit card and pop the unit out...

Merry Christmas...Carl

 

Based on your description, could this be a prox sensor? They are pretty sensitive to excess current which would be rare in a well engineered system. However if the power lead to the sensor shorts to the trigger lead, the sensor would overload (unlikely as well). I vote (hope for) trash in the movement. I'd like to see internal pictures of this component if anyone has them. I'm an avionics electronics instructor and might be able to create a trouble tree or repair scenario with more info.

 

Here are pictures of the actuator and receiver :

 

Looks like a basic hall sensor. V supply/ground & Hall -+ V. This board "looks" ok. Can you possibly get a clean shot so I can see the values marked on the components? Hall sensors produce a typically low output voltage and require an amplifier stage which would be the typical culprit once the following issues are ruled out.
1) lack of power to card.
2) lack of supply voltage to sensor.
3) lack of output voltage from sensor
4) poor solder coonections can be tested with cold spray.

Thanks for the pix ala_xfire

I will provide some basic troubleshooting steps etc...after lunch and the conclusion of my Christmas shopping.

 

Shifter assembly on eBay. $200
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Chrysler-Crossfire-Floor-Shift-Assembly-Transmission-shifter-OEM-05-06-07-/131360507134?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e95b244fe&vxp=mtr

 

Billy,
Thanks for educating ME, I have had Crossfires for a total of 6 years on and off and never knew THAT. As I live in Houston, Texas, I have never bothered with this switch, as I never needed to use it, BUT interesting to know , all the same. LOL You learn something every day don't you.

 

For those of us that don't drive with the pedal to the floor all the time, you might find that leaving it in "W" will give you just slightly better gas mileage by eliminating 1st gear. ( you will have a 4 speed automatic )

 

Welcome to the Forum RyansXfire! You will be another great asset here w/ your electronics background; especially as our cars are around 10 years old now.

 

Thanks for all the great information.

 

here's some :


and this is the runs where the + and - shift brushes run :