Hi, I am still new to the SRT-6 and being I have nothing to compare it to I want to POSITIVELY test the IC Pump to see if it is working.
Can I run a couple of jumper leads from the battery to the pump and maybe hold my hand on the pump to feel if it is running or not.
The car seems to run good but I don't know if it is cooler weather we are having in Florida this time of year and that's keeping the IC cooler, it gets HOT here in Florida and I rather change the pump now if it NEEDS it before the hot weather comes.
Is there a better test then what I suggest (not a seat of the pants test).
IF I do need to change the pump which is better to use the Bosch or the Johnson ?
THANKS for the help guys haven't even has the car a week yet so hard to make comparisons on performance.
Ralph

 

You could do that, yes.
BUT ! The pump motor running doesn't necessarily mean all is well if, for instance, the impeller has shredded.
The true test is if the SC clutch is engaging.
Connect a small 12V light across the 2 pins of the SC clutch and place it under the wiper so you can see it.
When the bulb lights up, HANG ON !!!
( if the pump is not supplying sufficient cooling to the IC, then the SC will not engage, once everything gets up to temp )

And get rid of that BB gun, you'll shoot your eye out.

 

Ralph - Play it safe and swap out for the updated Bosch p/n 039202210, commonly referred to as the #10. It's a direct plug and play, whereas the Johnson requires the connector and mounting bracket be modified. Also the higher flow rate of the Johnson has been associated with causing cracks and leakage with the Intercooler. The OEM pump is notorious for failing because of the impeller disintegrating. Get the #10 pump here with free shipping and LIFETIME WARRANTY...
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ump-0392022010

 

GREAT info thanks guys !!

 

Yea, ^^^^^^ do that. syfi's a blowerhead like you and should know.
I just have a puny NA.

 

That would be a cool idea to mount a little red or green bulb or LED on the dash or console so you can always tell.

Yes I do wear protective eye wear when I use my Red Rider

 

You know you have TWO great members right near you, in Orlando, chuk and KIm they both work at a Chrysler dealership with member discounts ,,which means they are there to help, not steal your money, they also know what they are doing with the srt and the limited. you need to get in touch with them. jim here is a link to chuk_138

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...rts-cheap.html

 

Just ordered ! Great price !
Question, when removing about how much coolant can I expect to come running out of the two hoses that are attached ? And any idea what size hoses they are for the screw clamps ? Hate running to a parts store in the middle of a job.
THANKS
Ralph

 

As suggested by member onehundred80, get a set of 2 "hose pinch pliers" - with these, you won't lose enough coolant to even be concerned about.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Hose-Pinching-Pliers-New-Pinch-Off-Pliers-Radiator-Heaterhose-Clamp-/151432410499?hash=item2342133583&item=151432410499&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtrSince the inlet and outlet are 3/4" hose size, I'd think get some 1" to 1.5" SS clamps, or just reuse the old ones..

 

Great ! I have some of those SS screw hose clamps that size already, yep that tool may come in handy or I can make a couple of "plugs" from PVC pipe and end caps.
Thanks

 

Yes, but you gotta be quick and sure handed with those plugs.
( Been there, Done that )
The pump is at a low point in the system, so coolant is just waiting to pour out.
Take onehundred80's advise and remove the passenger wheel and the front inner fender liner. Make's it easy to get at.

 

Yep, me too, love that stuff running down your arm to your arm pit .......at least it's not gas.......been there too.
Sure will take the tire and inner fender liner off too, you never have enough room. Seen the pics on the Johnson pump install very good.
Thanks

 

I used a couple of C-Clamps to pinch off the hoses. Vise-grips work like a charm too!

 

I will bow to the experts and welcome others to chime in but personally I question the accuracy of these statements . . . While there was once a theory presented that the higher flow rate of the Johnson pump might contribute to leakage in the Intercooler, that theory was quickly disputed by most of the forum "experts". The OEM Intercooler leakage problems are related to poor manufacturing welds and factory pre-assembly re-welding / repair attempts. See representative photos and discussion in this link . . .

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post705318

Also the failure of the OEM Bosch supercharger pumps is actually caused by the round magnet part developing cracks and ultimately breaking into pieces . . . not by the impeller disintegrating. Either way the OEM Bosch pump is a problem waiting to happen and should be changed out regardless of whether it's still functioning or not.

Just sayin'

 

I think you meant to say "post-assembly", Bob.
Kinda hard to RE-weld something before it has been manufactured, huh ?
( now I've done my 180 for the day )

 

I see you've been paying attention and can do a pretty good 180 imitation . . .

No . . . My meaning was pre-assembly of the intercoolers onto the engines. MB had NOS (new old stock) intercoolers laying around when they decided to build the Crossfire SRT6 using spare parts from the SLK32 AMGs which ended production in 2004. All of the NOS intercoolers as well as additionally ordered intercoolers were leak tested before being assembled onto an engine. Many it seems required welding up / repair.

 

What I read was that the ICs were inspected at the maker and found to have leaks and were re-welded by them. I doubt that they were re-welded by MB. MB would expect parts ready for assembly.

Pictures here show the impeller cracked and fell to pieces. The part was a sintered molding and there were probably too sharp corners on it, the shaft to which it was molded and shrank onto caused stresses in the spindle bore area or the sintering process was faulty for some reason, wrong temp and pressure etc, that's my guess. There are photos of the broken impeller on the forum.

It is magnetic but it is the impeller.
Pump3.jpg

 

As I said . . . I'll bow to the experts . . .

Thanks for filling in some of the blanks here 180 . . . that all sounds reasonable and correct to me.

 

Since determined it was manufacturing process causing leaks, not flow from a Jonson CM30 that does not have the PRESSURE to cause that kind of damage.


If you want a Bosch pump go with a 03/04 Cobra or Lightning pump which is a true ic pump (as Bosch goes) and not a repurposed auxiliary heater pump.


A lot of better options out there than the Johnson CM30 for a upgrade also.

 

Anything other than the #10 Bosch requires modding the cradle holding the pump in place and rewiring the connectors. Why go through all the trouble when you can just remove the old and insert the new. Don't even bother with the Cobra/Lightning pump. Ford boys have had so many failures with them that most have gone with Meziere WP-136 pumps.