I have played with my car today, trying to figure out what's causing my intermittent power loss. The intercooler pump is running. When I go full throttle it has very little power. If I backoff the throttle and ease ot down, its back to fill power, then when it shifts, it's dead again, until I pedal it. A couple of times in second and third gear, it took 10 seconds or longer to rev from 2,500 rpms and stopped accelerating at 4,000 rpms. It toes the same thing at any spped or, any gear, or any rpm, unless I ease into it. Also, I noticed that the brake light is on,, but there don't appear to be any brake issues. I took the entire interior out, and reinstalled the console. It has a sprint boosted, which I haven't checked out yet. When the power comes on, it is really fast. It also has a Eurocharged tune in it. Last week, I was thinking it jad something to do with traction control, but I think I have eliminated that. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

you said the ic pump was working,,,,,i think you should recheck that,, I would remove the sprint booster and then hot wire the pump on (straight from the batt) then u have 100% eliminated the pump if it is good or bad,,, I say pump,, one,,,,the pump is worn out which under full power it can not pump enough water,,two,,,when the temp goes up(on sc water,not engine temp) the pump stops working but can come right back on with the release of the gas peddle, also if you are on the edge of the temp of the off switch the pump will go off and on within seconds of each cycle
USAF 1964 to 1968 jim

 

Thank you sir. I'll try that tomorrow. I saw a post on doing a throttle reset, which I'll try, and then I'm going to take the Sprint Booster out and see if that helps. I appreciate your suggestions.

 

The car does the same thing, warm or cold. But I'll double check the pump tomorrow. I ordered a new one from Rob, just in case.

 

Have you had a chance to read any codes?
The brake light also comes on if the ABS light is not working and there is a problem with the ABS.

 

Yes, the only code was P0410, secondary air injection, whic doesn't affect performance. Even tough my intercooler pump is working, I ordered a new one from Needswings, last week, and I'll install it next week, just to be sure mine wasn't working intermittently. I'm pretty sure that isn't the case, because I've replaced intercooler pumps in my other two SRT6s. I'm going to do a throttle reset today, and see if that's the problem. Thanks for your suggestion.

 

I had a variation of this transmission in a 300 and it developed intermittent transmission problems which cut back on the power, it finally went into limp mode permanently and the problem became obvious.
In limp mode it goes into second gear and moves like a snail with very slow acceleration.
It was a sticky solenoid in the electrical plate, prior to getting it fixed the car at times was very hard to get going. My wife had the problem first, it never happened to me so I thought she was imagining it until it happened to me.
I am not saying tat is your problem but it sounds similar.

 

How does it start and idle?

 

It starts and idles perfectly. It also run perfectly, when driving, except for that irritating problem with the power reduction when you try to hit it and go.
Thanks,

 

I'll think through that, but on first blush, I don't think it's the transmission. It always shifts and seems to function properly when driving, but you may be on to something. Thanks,

 

Are there any codes?

Might check Throttle Position Sensor or gas Pedal (reprogram).

 

AIT sensor could be bad Andrew...sorry to throw you another curve, but if the new pump doesn't fix it...I would replace the AIT sensor... Air Intake Sensor... I had one go bad on my roadster.

 

Well I eliminated one thing today. There was no Sprint Booster installed on my car. I guess I misunderstood the seller. I disconnected and reconnected the wiring connector on the kick down switch and the throttle pedal, just to verify that the connector was seating properly, and the car behaves the same way it has been. Today, there was no fault code.

When I floor it, it may take 10 seconds to accelerate from 2,000 rpm to 4,000 rpm, and will not go beyond 4,000 rpm. If I back off and play with it, it may take off like a rocket, until it shifts, and then it will bog again until I pedal it a little bit, and then go like hell again. It's making terrific power when the fire is on, but I can't keep the fire burning.

Is it possibly the throttle body actuator, not responding to the signal from the throttle pedal, or the throttle pedal itself? Could it be the MAP sensor? Could it be the ECU or the EC tune that has gotten corrupted? I'm baffled.

I'm going to install the new intercooler pump, when Rob gets it to me, just to eliminate that potential source of problem, but I don't think that's the problem. When the power falls off, it really falls off, maybe down to 40 or 50 hp. It wouldn't beat an old lady, on foot, across an intersection.

This issue is making me fall behind my schedule to get the car on the racetrack this March.

Thanks,

 

Could be the throttle body.

 

I would look into the brake light issue. I know hitting to brake while driving will cut the throttle.

 

just went thru something similar . bet a beer it is the accelerator pedal . they are pretty common to go out . I have a spare throttle body if you want to borrow it .

 

also do you have a obdII doggle ? you can buy one for 7 bucks and download a phone app for $5 that well allow you to read your engine . it well tell you if your ic pump is bad , it well tell you if your accelerator peddle is bad . this well save you lots of time and money changing parts you don't need.

 

I'd purge your IC system and make sure no bubbles are in the system . I had a problem like this and it was because of a bad solder on my RCM

 

I have one and there are no codes.

 

Thanks, I think you're right. I'll take one out of my other SRT6 and try it.