Anytime a "mechanic buddy" gives me information I difinitely check it out a little further. It's not the "mechanic buddy" problem when things don't work out like they said it would. This forum is a valuable resource that saved us all time/ money along with outstanding repair information, I'm just looking for clarification/assurance on BCM programing.

 

haha Yah I agree with that as well. I also used mitchells online mechanic info. He has a password etc for that site since the business he works for uses it. It said to disconnect negative cable, install new bcm, reconnect negative, leave the key in the on position for up to 30 seconds, then start the vehicle. So I felt pretty confident in putting it in and running through that process. I understand though why people are hesitant, not a cheap item to screw up if something was to go wrong... any ides on why the spoiler manual operation wont work????

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jv05

... any ides on why the spoiler manual operation wont work????

Well, at the risk of sounding like a smartarse...my guess would be that the BCM needs the dealer programming after all to get all the bits and pieces (sun and moon) aligned. The spoiler not functioning correctly - the switch in particular - was one of the many, many issues I had with my vehicle and it's related BCM, etc. problems. Not to say that there might not be a lay-person's work around for that (I just don't know what it is).

 

Yah I was thinking that it may be BCM related, however I thought maybe since the spoiler would work at 65 and shut off at 30 or whatever it is, and that only the manual mode wouldnt work, that possibly it was the switch itself... could possibly be that the bcm isnt picking up any signal from the switch, just wierd that it works at the required speeds.... wierd stuff, however a lot of the bcm problems can cause some crazzzzzy stuff to happen...

 

Hi Tlppsp:

I'll let you guys know shortly whether the BCM needs re-programming by the dealer. I haven't gotten around to installing the used BCM I purchased from Autosmarts Autoparts into my SRT-6 yet. I've been having only a passenger side window issue, so replacement hasn't been critical. My biggest concern is whether the "new" BCM will recognize my sentry key remotes. Although reprogramming those is described in the user's manual, and is not difficult.

 

Same here, windows (both) will start down and then stop. You must hold switch down to fully lower windows. It only does this when it's extreamly hot outside, (Florida location) and not al lthe time. I figure its the BCM but not sure. I have an SRT also so please let us know about programing. Thanks.......T

 

Finally got around to installing the used BCM purchased from Autosmarts Autoparts. First I disconnected the battery cable, removed the old BCM, put in the "new" BCM, reconnected the battery cable, turned the key to on to allow BCM to "learn" VIN. After 2 minutes, started the car.
NO PROBLEMO!!!
Everything worked perfectly, including the troublesome window. Thought that I would at least have to reprogram the sentry key remotes but even that wasn't necessary. Saved $200, since the dealer wanted $100 to install the BCM and $100 to "program". It was important that I had obtained a well-functioning BCM from the parts dealer.

 

Hey, that's great news, jmlasker! Glad to hear you got things worked out. How about you, jv05? Any luck with your spoiler?

 

Nope, unfortunately the spoiler still only goes up and down automatically, still no manual control. I checked the fuses , they all look good. Other than that I havent had much time to look at it, busy holiday season like usual. It still seems wierd to me that it works automatically, makes me think the bcm is actually doing its job, possibly a bad ground to the switch???? I dunno I'll check things out a thoroughly when I get some times, happy new years to you guys, god bless..

 

jv05.....did you try taking cable loose and re-installing...just a thought...you know how puters are

 

I think my car saw this thread and said: "Oh oh... me too, me too!" So, did anybody take a picture of this module for a step by step how too??? Mine started with one window, then an intermitent dash, then two windows with a stal out last night...now, interior light issues. I have checked the ground and it looks clean and feels tight. So, the only thing I have left is this module. Oh, or a part number, if there isn't a picture maybe a picture? My other car is a motorcycle and that isn't going to work in the snow.

 

Picture

HERE

 

Ah! I guess I just need to look a little more. THANKS! I know where that is!

 

i had a similar problem with my '05 coupe recently. My driver's side window went down and wouldn't come up. I took it to the dealer (reluctantly) and they said the motor and regulator were burned out and had to be replaced, to the tune of almost $900. They said it probably was caused by the body module and it probably was starting to fail.

When I picked the car up, the A/C didn't cool. They got it working and said they programmed the module. Everything worked fine for a couple of weeks, but now the window won't go down. Other side works fine. I am not taking it back tot he dealer, since they probably will charge me for another motor and the module (another $1800, they say).

I have a good local mechanic I trust and will probably take it there to see what things look like. He said they have someone who may be able to rebuild the module. I really don't want to spend the money the dealer wants but am concerned other things may start to fail if I con't do something with the module. Any suggestions or ideas??

Thanks

 

I wish we could get the message out there that you DO NOT take these cars to dealers for anything. (Actually, I wound not take ANY vehicle to the dealer anyway - the way dealer service departments are set up and managed, the "techs" there are not paid well and are treated like hell. The industry's training is actually kinda good, but since you have a Mercedes that Chrysler has not offered tech training on for some 8 or 9 years, the pool of trained techs is almost non-existent.)

Yank the console up, get in there with a cheap voltmeter (you can buy them at Lowes) and measure for switched power from the switch, if you have power coming from the switch, take the door panel apart and see if power it getting to the motor/regulator.

These tests will tell you where the issue is, sounds to me like they replaced the motor/regulator as a guess, as obviously that was not the problem.

You MIGHT take the cover off the module box under the hood and verify the BCM is dry and unplug and replug in the connectors on the BCM, can be a corroded pin on the wiring harness.

 

You know, it could be that they left a ground screw loose or they didn't plug the harness in tightly - may be something simple like that.

I don't buy the idea that the Body module is "going bad", unless it got wet.