So my problem is that twice this week I've had my engine stall on me while out driving. The first time I was sitting at a stop light, and the engine just stopped (I felt a slight bump and then noticed the engine had shut off). I was able to put it in park and restart the engine, and I noticed that the car was idling a bit low. Just tonight while coming home from work, I was coasting down my street when I felt the power steering go and noticed the engine shut off. Same deal, I stopped the car, and restarted it (though it idled fine afterwards).

I'm trying to figure out what could be causing this. I just had the service B done a few months ago so I don't think it has to do with the oil or whatnot. I did happen to fill up on gas the first day it happened (Chevron 93 octane). Could it be the gas? A sensor maybe? I'm afraid to take it in to the shop because I know they'll find something to blame it on and charge me for something really stupid.

Any ideas?

 

Sounds like the crank position sensor.

 

you could start there...seems to be an epidemic w/ crank sensors lately...

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...on-sensor.html

Link for ya.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. It may be going because of heat, as it's been in the mid 90's (occasionally 100+) for the whole summer. I'll have to find someone to run a check and see if they come up with the same thing.

 

DOn't waste time and money on "testing" or "checking" it. CPS's are $40 at Autohaus in Arizona. Just order one, they are SUPER EASY to put in, and let that be your "test".

 

Hey RapidFire, Have you figure out what was the problem?

I've similar issue with you, car stalled, able to restart immediately. I would say it stalled so smooth that I don't even notice it. (3x times already in a month)

Beside the stall, car runs and idles very smooth, no check engine light, no starting problems, which is different from regular crank position sensor issues that most people reported. Any ideas?

 

This is how the CPS problem started with me when I owned a ML320. Don't waste time on this. It will get progressively worse until you are stuck somewhere. The first signs are dying after you stop at a light. You got about week to fix this or get ready for a tow bill. It is easy to install yourself in minutes.

 

Funny you ask, I just got back from Autozone. The code I got was not for the crank sensor, but the P0410 code. The bad part is that looking up this code, it seems to only be something that trips the check engine light and the engine still runs fine. Mine, however, hasn't gotten a check engine light. And just the other night it stalled on me while just cruising along. Luckily there was little traffic and I could pull off the road.

Looks like I have quite a bit of investigating to do.

 

P0410 wouldn't cause the engine to stall. My old ML320 started off stalling with no check engine light at first. It also ran fine when not stalling. It finally tripped the code just before I fixed it. By that time it would stall and take many tries to get it started. Once started it ran fine until it stalled again. If it keeps stalling I would replace the crank sensor. It is a common issue.

 

Hey, so did your check engine light ever lights up? or did you just pull off the code with no check engine light?


First time it stalled about 5-6 weeks ago at a stop sign. able to restart right away, no check engine light.

2nd time it stalled was interesting, happened last week, I was cruising in a traffic jam on the freeway, it stalled, all lights on dashboard comes on like last time, the different was the car still cruising forward at around 30mph, I pressed the red triangle hazards light, and the engine restarted by itself in a few seconds, I keep on driving like nothing happened. May be the red triangle button was the secret to keep the engine rolling.

3rd time it stalled this morning at a stop sign again. I able to restart right away and keep on driving.

It seems happening more frequently (although it only happened 3 times...) I think I'll give it a try to change the crank sensor

 

Well I'm going to take it to the dealer Wednesday. I'm fairly sure it's the crank sensor, and that should be covered under my warranty (still have a few months left, suckers!). I don't know why I'd get the P0410 code though, since I havn't had my check engine light ever come on.

I'm just wondering what I'm going to do about this other code dealing with the air injection. I know they'll find it and want to fix it, though I don't know if it's still under warranty (if not I probably wont have them replace it).

I'll report back after everything is done.

 

check the wiring to the cps, mine sent me a code. The code won't trip until it has coded 2 or more trips. I saw the wires had been pinched by the clip holding the wires, after repositioning the wires and resetting the DTC codes it has not recoded. And to whom it may concern I am chillin.

 

Sorry I've waited a little while.

I decided to skip going to the dealer, because I knew they'd find something else and try to charge me out the wazoo to fix it. So I went ahead and bought the crank position sensor myself from NAPA for about $125 and installed it myself (20 minute proceedure my butt). Hopefully this fixed it, and hopefully it doesn't happen later in the week when I need to take the construction riddled highway to school.

 

Do you have any tips on the replacement process? I looked at mine, and there's a heat shield near the sensor that makes it difficult to reach, or even see the mounting bolt. My guess is that it would take a long extension to get down there. Did you have to take the heat shield off?

thanks for any hints/suggestions,
Bob

 

Replaced mine just last year, ( real fiddly little **** too!!!! ). However, mine now also idles real low after having a service, don't cut out, but a bit of a bog from the lights!!!! Took a look, and you can't adjust the idle anymore!!!!!

 

Bob, I removed that shield on my car and didnt put it back...much easier to change without the shield...
There are two bolts holding it on... long bolts that go through the bell housing....

 

I went to an autozone and paid like $57 for the actual mercedes/bosche part. I would even think about buying a new one from autozone or off the net and taking it back to napa (so you do not have to do the installation again).

Might be a way to save $60-$70. Every little bit helps.

 

^ The Autozones didn't have it, and the dealer wanted $260 for the part.

As for installing it, the heat shield wasn't the problem. It was the little black shield that looks like it was put there specifically to cover the sensor alone. It is bolted to the transmission so I didn't want to spend they day trying to take it off.

I had also bought an E8 socket, but it was too wide to reach the bolt because of the stupid shield. I ended up using a thin 8mm socket attached to one of those flexible extensions. It came out easily enough, though it was a very tight fit putting the new one in.

After a few days of driving and being on the highway, no problems so far.