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OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
You guys know the drill, idles rough, won't take throttle easily, big time power loss, won't even free rev well. Just feels like it's making 50 HP or so... I ordered the $186 CPS from MoParts, installed it, and it runs-the same:confused: What now? No check engine light. It sure seems like a problem serious enough to make my SRT6 run like this would throw a MIL light:(
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
crankshaft position sensors usually cost around the $45 range. Although I haven't heard of one going bad for awhile, the camshaft sensor can cause this as well. I am sure you have checked for vacuum hoses off, throttle body is tight, no intake hoses off coming from the sc...etc. All these things can cause the problem. Throttle position sensor...etc...
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Your symptoms dont sound like a typical Crankshaft or Camshaft sensor failing....
Doc's suggestion to look at vacuum lines and TB are good....leaks are semi-common...:( I have had two scenario's that causd a similar symptom to yours.... 1. The rubber gasket between the TB and the SC cracks/splits at the joint with the metal plates in it... 2. The TB was acting like it wasnt working right... did a Thottle reset and it cleared the issue. (I have had this happen to me two different times after working on the car) |
Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Did you check the O2 sensors on exhaust pipe 1 & 2? I had the same problem you had last week and the dealership found them to be defective. The repair cost me $1100.
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Still an intermittant problem and a real headscratcher. Car sat for 3 weeks, long enough for a rat to make a cozy little nest on top of the battery from a shop rag I had underhood:mad: He filed his teeth a bit on the first 1" of positive battery cable but I don't see any other chew damage:(
Started the car last night, drove it 4-5 miles gently then used the loud pedal agressively for a couple miles;) All was perfect. This am, gonna run an errand, fired up fine for 10-15 seconds then the stumble sets in. THe whole car shakes and the RPMS drop below 500, applying throttle in Park does almost nothing, RPMS will rize but very very slowly. I actually shut it off, restarted the engine and it ran fine for 30 seconds or so. Diagnosis is not my forte, I'm more willing to throw parts at it myself than overpay at the dealership. Will a bad cam sensor trigger a check engine light? No check engine light is on now. Thanks for the suggestions to look at lines and TB, all is well there, nice and secure with no splits. Cant really see the bottom T (I have the Needswings DCAI and teflon coated T) splitter but there is no way it would have ran so strong last night if that was separated. Any other ideas? I don't have access to a scan tool(or really know what to do with it anyway:p ) |
Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Originally Posted by MrSix
Still an intermittant problem and a real headscratcher. Car sat for 3 weeks, long enough for a rat to make a cozy little nest on top of the battery from a shop rag I had underhood:mad: He filed his teeth a bit on the first 1" of positive battery cable but I don't see any other chew damage:(
Started the car last night, drove it 4-5 miles gently then used the loud pedal agressively for a couple miles;) All was perfect. This am, gonna run an errand, fired up fine for 10-15 seconds then the stumble sets in. THe whole car shakes and the RPMS drop below 500, applying throttle in Park does almost nothing, RPMS will rize but very very slowly. I actually shut it off, restarted the engine and it ran fine for 30 seconds or so. Diagnosis is not my forte, I'm more willing to throw parts at it myself than overpay at the dealership. Will a bad cam sensor trigger a check engine light? No check engine light is on now. Thanks for the suggestions to look at lines and TB, all is well there, nice and secure with no splits. Cant really see the bottom T (I have the Needswings DCAI and teflon coated T) splitter but there is no way it would have ran so strong last night if that was separated. Any other ideas? I don't have access to a scan tool(or really know what to do with it anyway:p ) |
Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Could be the MAF failing. Try unplugging it to see if there is any change when/if the condition returns.
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Both good ideas, I'll check:cool:
Alan BTW Chuck I haven't been here as much these days, hows the MitsuFire project, is there an updated thread somewhere? |
Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
mice and rats like to get into all places...and have done a lot of damage to wiring as well...you need to pull everything apart, and start looking at all things at this point...good luck..
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Originally Posted by oledoc2u
mice and rats like to get into all places...and have done a lot of damage to wiring as well...you need to pull everything apart, and start looking at all things at this point...good luck..
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Possibility the fuel filter is clogged. May need to do a pressure test.
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Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Originally Posted by MrSix
(Post 614401)
You guys know the drill, idles rough, won't take throttle easily, big time power loss, won't even free rev well. Just feels like it's making 50 HP or so... I ordered the $186 CPS from MoParts, installed it, and it runs-the same:confused: What now? No check engine light. It sure seems like a problem serious enough to make my SRT6 run like this would throw a MIL light:(
-Jon |
Re: OK, so Crank Position Sensor didn't help...
Originally Posted by jonnyb0ii
(Post 691138)
did you ever find what was wrong? I'm experiencing this now. Heavy foot will make the car turn off as well as hitting 80mph. recently changed my CPS.
-Jon |
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