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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and DifferentialPost questions here that have to do with the engine, cooling system, air intake, exhaust, Transmission and Differential
took it to a driveshaft shop and had them cut it down, and reweld and reballanced.
had to go twice, they measured wrong.
they only took off for 1 plate off the measurement and not two like I said.
Specifically those two plates, they are not balanced with the odd patterns, where they in place when it was done.
Specifically those two plates, they are not balanced with the odd patterns, where they in place when it was done.
no reason why the plates would not be balanced.
dimensions are perfect.
the 3 bolt holes are perfect centered.
and the 4 bolt holes are.
Why do you mean by odd patterns.
3 bolt is normal and the 4 bolt is normal.
with them on the same plate the are perfect measurements.
even if the timing was off between the 3 and 4 bolt.
the 3 bolt hole is perfectly centered and the 4 bolt is perfectly centere.think of it as 2 different plates, one with 3 bolt holes and one with the 4 hole. If everything is right, thickness of the plate, centered prefect, and same with the 3 hole plate.
any reason each one would be out of balance?
then just think about mating both plates together, if each plate is perfect, if both plates where mounted together no reason it would make 2 balanced plates unbalanced.
no reason why the plates would not be balanced.
dimensions are perfect.
the 3 bolt holes are perfect centered.
and the 4 bolt holes are.
Why do you mean by odd patterns.
3 bolt is normal and the 4 bolt is normal.
with them on the same plate the are perfect measurements.
even if the timing was off between the 3 and 4 bolt.
the 3 bolt hole is perfectly centered and the 4 bolt is perfectly centere.think of it as 2 different plates, one with 3 bolt holes and one with the 4 hole. If everything is right, thickness of the plate, centered prefect, and same with the 3 hole plate.
any reason each one would be out of balance?
then just think about mating both plates together, if each plate is perfect, if both plates where mounted together no reason it would make 2 balanced plates unbalanced.
To be balanced they would have to have every hole filled with exactly the same weight as its counterparts presuming each hole was of the same dimensions. Laying out the patterns by hand was the initial mistake.
ok, 1st I took to a machine shop.
and they where unusable.
And wasted alot of time and money, the pilots where not even close to centered over 1/4 inch off center wtf.
what?????
not understanting how you would think this is way out of balance, all holes are exact dimensions and sizes to there balanced counter part.
the recessed bolt holes are exact same depths.
this is for a rotational balance from exact center of each disc.
ok, 1st I took to a machine shop.
and they where unusable.
And wasted alot of time and money, the pilots where not even close to centered over 1/4 inch off center wtf.
what?????
not understanting how you would think this is way out of balance, all holes are exact dimensions and sizes to there balanced counter part.
the recessed bolt holes are exact same depths.
this is for a rotational balance from exact center of each disc.
To be balanced they would have to have every hole filled with exactly the same weight as its counterparts presuming each hole was of the same dimensions. Laying out the patterns by hand was the initial mistake.
I think the disk before any drilling , being only 6" is balanced, ,drilling a pilot hole would not change that, drilling the three holes for the yoke would not change that ,,making a circle for the universal joint plate to center the driveshaft would not change that. , drilling the four holes for the universal joint plate, placed evenly between and inside the yoke holes and centered between the yoke holes, of course would not cause an unbalance. so i see it as YES, speedy you are right they are balanced. and testing to 110 is proof. glad to see you have it done waiting for the pictures. jim
just trying to figure out why you think they are not balanced.
If the plates were themselves balanced then laying them on a knife edge which passed through the centre of the pilot hole the plate would balance.
With the patterns being offset it would not but I guess adding the screws counteracted the imbalance.
You must have done an accurate job of machining to achieve the balance at 110mph.
Front off of transmission New shifter bracket on drivers side, bushing on bolt and the cast aluminum bracket for movement, cut part of the cast aluminum.
And with the aluminum bracket i made Passengers side shifter bracket.
Bith sides are made from aluminum angle, passe passengers side didn't need to be as long as i have it..
If the plates were themselves balanced then laying them on a knife edge which passed through the centre of the pilot hole the plate would balance.
With the patterns being offset it would not but I guess adding the screws counteracted the imbalance.
You must have done an accurate job of machining to achieve the balance at 110mph.
The plates I started with where not perfect flat, except perfect round.
I milled the plates perfect, then took to a machine shop, they screwed them up extremely bad and where unusable, so I milled down 4 more plates and took them to a shop and had just the pilots put in there cnc, then I did the rest, $50 for both pilots put in all 4 plates, I used a 18mm end mill for the recess for the cap cap bolts, all to perfect and exact same depths, to keep balance.
the 4 threaded holes are 3/8 fine thread, I wanted to do myself, then I know the threads would be perfect.
thickness of plates are exact.
diameter is exact, and pilots are exactly centered
all holes are exact spacing, dimensions and depths.
Cut off the bracket on passenger side for the carrier bearing, and coated the bare steel so will not rust.
and cut the back driveshaft safety bracket for extra clearance. That was in for the 2 piece driveshaft, if the carrier bearing broke, the driveshaft would not hit the ground.
would not be hard to put in a safety loop.
Not to be negative Speedy, but what is the purpose of the aluminum drive shaft? Save weight? Have issues with the flex plates? Think it will cut 60' times? Seems like a lot of work for a small improvement. I know of no other test of the stock drive shaft than Jim's V-8. Neither of my cars have had any issues. Especially the blue coupe with the 3:46 gear. If anyone was going to have drive shaft issues, I would have thought it would be me or one of the V-8's. I do see more re-enforcement of the torgue over in the rear end, but that is a suspension problem not a drive shaft issue. If it proves to improve 60' times, I will be impressed. I have my doubt's though. 60' times is more of a hooking up issue. Right suspension right tires and tire pressure. We won't even talk surface prep. Good luck to you on your quest for faster times though. Nothing wrong with that.
Not to be negative Speedy, but what is the purpose of the aluminum drive shaft? Save weight? Have issues with the flex plates? Think it will cut 60' times? Seems like a lot of work for a small improvement. I know of no other test of the stock drive shaft than Jim's V-8. Neither of my cars have had any issues. Especially the blue coupe with the 3:46 gear. If anyone was going to have drive shaft issues, I would have thought it would be me or one of the V-8's. I do see more re-enforcement of the torgue over in the rear end, but that is a suspension problem not a drive shaft issue. If it proves to improve 60' times, I will be impressed. I have my doubt's though. 60' times is more of a hooking up issue. Right suspension right tires and tire pressure. We won't even talk surface prep. Good luck to you on your quest for faster times though. Nothing wrong with that.
I never like the idea of a center carrier bearing.
I spend alot of time out of state away from home, and getting rid of flex discs and center carrier bearing is less things that I would have to worry about.
From a non rebuildable steel driveshaft due to the u joint, with 2 rubber flex discs and a center carrier bearing to a fully rebuild able driveshaft with standard 1310 joints, and 1.8 lbs lighter, yes if I was going to overtake the project I wanted aluminum and not steel, a single piece steel would be heavier.
I have a N/A 6 speed so did not do for drag, but is I could find out how to strengthen the nsg370, I would and do a N/A 550 engine, I have been looking and asking for awhile, but no luck.
I have 162k miles on my silverfox and was getting ready to rebuild driveshaft anyway, and when I change or rebuild something I always look at improving it, not a person that thinks good enough.
It would cut 60'times for acouple reasons, but another thing you would have to think about also, with the ones that have modded 5.5 engines the rubber flex discs does give alittle shock absorbing for the hard launches, so it helps on the output torque rating on the transmission, but I use mine as a daily driver doing long drives and that does not a problem for me, and with the 3.2 it will not get to the torque rating.
I will definitely not have a problem with flex discs
Where in indiana are you from doc?
I am working be evansville atm.
Not to be negative Speedy, but what is the purpose of the aluminum drive shaft? Save weight? Have issues with the flex plates? Think it will cut 60' times? Seems like a lot of work for a small improvement. Good luck to you on your quest for faster times though. Nothing wrong with that.
most of the work was due to it bot being done before and figuring out different ways to do it.
I also found out how to do the driveshaft without the adapter plates, with switching the props out to yokes.
if I had a spare set of props, I looked around.
the manual had a different prop than the rearend, they have the same pilots and same bolt circle diameter but different size / spline on output shaft and pinion.
if I could have found some props I would havery had that all figured out.
and also I went with a larger diameter shaft than I needed, well because it was $28 and $90 to cut it down and reballance.
For $600 I could have ordered online a 3" with slip and would have went in alot easier.
people with a automatic do not have to worry about making new mounting for the shifter linkage.
found a guy on mb forum that did a one piece but he cut off the pilots to put the yokes on, yokes would be cheaper, I found a place for $176 apiece custom make deepthroat yokes, and would not have to cut off the pilots.
but I went with the plates for if someone else wanted to do it, they could easily, I posted all dimensions and measurements for plates for all the bolts and pilots, with thickness off the plates and driveshaft length.
so if someone wanted to do, or had to redo theirs soon, they could have everything done and ready to go in.
and can do it cheaper than rebuilding oem shafts, and will end up with a fully rebuild able shaft, that is stronger and a hair lighter, steel would be alot heavier.
according to spicer the oem driveshaft should NOT be in our cars for the rpms, and it has a critical mass around 2,300 rpm, new shaft 6,800, I believe, will calculate it again in a bit.
but stronger, cheaper, rebuildable, and just alot better.
LOL...just curious. Seems like a lot of effort for little reward, but as long as you are happy. I'm 4 hrs from Evansville unfortunately. I do get down there from time to time since the company I work for has a place in Henderson Ky. I will keep watching your upgrade. And as far as the numbers, Jim has proven them all wrong with his V-8 and the many runs down the strip he has done. No one has put more stress on a rear end or drive shaft for that matter.
Jim has proven them all wrong with his V-8 and the many runs down the strip he has done. No one has put more stress on a rear end or drive shaft for that matter. that is true this week had another u joint go out,,last wed the 4 i picked up a spare drive shaft ,two days ago i put it in the car,, 50---5 0 less than fifty miles i blew out the u joint.
speedy4x4 is right ,, the best is a one peice drive shaft,, so I am next.
Hello,
I am repairing my Xfire and in Spain is hard to find spares for this car.
As you can see my flange is damaged so I am looking for a New one.
I checked on Moparts some references, but i dont know of they are correct.
It is a Crossfire 3.2V6 218hp 6-speed manual from 2004.
Re: Single piece aluminum driveshaft
