Okay:

Thanks to everyone's help here I have made tremendous progress on addressing my limp mode issue. As I previously related a shop indicated that I had 2 sensor codes causing the limp mode. I ordered the conductor plate/sensor kit from Euro and successfully replace the plate.

I then ordered the Autel Diaglink and successfully erased all codes. But sadly I am still in limp mode. But there are no longer any codes showing.

In all of my research here one of the forum members had the same issue after replacing the conductor plate and electronic connector. and was still in limp mode. He then wrote he purchased a used TCM and that fixed the problem.

I have a couple of questions. Does the OBD Code reader show a bad or malfunctioning TCM, because I am not getting a code for that?

If it does not then how do you analyze or troubleshoot to see if the tcl is bad?

Right now I am still in first or second gear with no shifting on my automatic transmission (2007 crossfire base model). I might add that on the auto trans you are able to move the shifter to the right to manually shift gears from drive to first and on up. But I am unable to shift with the shifter as it stays in drive. Hope this provides further insight

I am making process, you guys do not give up on me now.

Williams

 

There are a few things that cause limp mode
bad tcu,, got wet with tranny fluid,,, tcu not for that car,,,srt for srt limited for limited and sometime it has to be correct year
conductor plate,,,elect connector to tranny wet and leaking
drive to too hard,, car goes into limp mode to protect car.

There are a few things to get out of limp mode.
disconnect batt for 5 min.
replace tcu
replace elect connector at tranny
replace conductor plate (inside tranny)

what year and is it srt or limited
where are u

 

Thanks sir for replying to my thread. I have a 2007 automatic crossfire. It is a limited. I am in Houston Texas.

I have done extensive homework pertaining to the leads you suggest. Having changed the conductor plate and the electronic connector I am now going to take the following steps:

1. I had purchased the dipstick for our cars and had not checked the amount of tranny oil in the car after fill up. I read where the low oil could keep the car in limp mode. I did properly check the tranny oil this morning with the car running and it was drastically low. I went and purchased more tranny oil this morning (the same that Euro Parts sent me with their conductor plate kit) and am in the process of leveling the oil off properly.

2. If the above does not cure the problem. I am going to pull the TCM and see if it became soaked with tranny oil and clean. Will leave it unplugged (don't know for how long) in order to reset the TCM. The forum members did not specify how long to leave the TCM unplugged.

3. If above does not fix problem, I am going to look for a used TCM---wish there was a way to check if I have a bad TCM or am in need of a new one. Seem like there should be a way to troubleshoot a faulty TCM. It is not showing up on my code reader

Again, thank you for chiming in. I hope I on the right course

 

I would also put in your spare rcm, if you have one (just to check it) as the rcm does so much to these cars
if you don't have a spare rcm get one, you will need it.

 

Thanks sir for your guidance. To get a spare RCM should I purchase a new one or used and where do you suggest I get it

C

 

Why start another thread? Will you start another thread if the new RCM does not work?
Please for the sake of clarity keep your questions in the original thread or answers will appear in both threads and people will get confused and answer none of them.
Take out the RCM and look at the contacts for damage.
Did you by any chance remove a ground cable to the engine? It is underneath the car on the bell housing I hear.

 

Understand 180 your concern about starting additional threads pertaining to the same occurrence. Will refrain from doing moving forward. Was panicking and not keeping focus on proper protocol and will do so in the future

Williams

 

being that you cannot drive your car,, pull yours out send it to ( https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html)

for a new or used one try e bay ,, rockauto, Junk yard, if u get a used one send it to tighed1 No one can fix it as good as tighed1

 

There is not much point in getting it fixed if there is nothing wrong with it. Why suddenly does the car not start, too much of a coincidence to my mind. I’d guess something was changed or damaged in the rework or the battery is kaput or flat.

 

Okay, I want to again apologize to everyone for logging multiple threads. Forgive my panic and I will be conscious of that in the future. Okay our fellow forum member in the other thread was correct about it being a bad battery. As I previously related I charged the batters on my trickle charge 100% and then took it to the Autozone for their charge. It charged 100%. But when I put it in the car it tried to start the car a couple of times then the car went back to total no response. I took a fully charged battery out of one of my other cars and the car started and ran with no problem. So our forum member was correct I need a new battery.

Okay I drove the car around the block and am still in limp mode after changing conductor place, proper oil fill up and pulling the tcl and cleaning and inspecting, I also kept the TCM unplugged over night. Also, erased all codes. I wan to now consider purchasing a tcm others have said that was their final resolution.

I know ebay is selling used TCMs for our car. Do you guys recommend me going that route or buying one new and from whom. If I purchase a used on on ebay how can I be sure it will be the one for my car and not need any reprogramming?

So, the car is not running and I am now going to replace the TCM. You guys me on that step please

 

With this problem spread over four threads I did not see what codes you erased, what were they?
The codes often point to a specific problem, but sometimes they just give hints and sometimes they can be of no help at all.

 

Okay 180 I apologized to you and to all of the other forrum members twice about my issue being spread over 4 threads. You don't need to keep mentioning it as I earlier apologized. Thanks for all of your weigh ins thus far and I fully understand if you no longer choose to assist.

If anyone else can guide me on the best way to obtain a TCM---that is how would you go about securing one I would greatly appreciate it

Williams

 

I simply wanted to see what the error codes were and could not find them. I take it you did not write them down.
I am sure that others will help or search is an option.

 

I changed the conductor plate by studiously following all videos, Mounted everything with no problem. Had the hardest time seating the new electrical connector plug with the new o-rings but finally got it. But I am having the hardest time pushing in the electrical connector all the way. Many of the videos showing the repair on Mercedes the mechanics push the connector all the way in to where it is inside the plug or at least flush and then they are able to push the yellow ring all the way clockwise until it clicks.


When I install the connector it does not go all the way flush to inside the plug. It sits out some and I am able to push the yellow ring clockwise with it catching but not all the way until it clicks.

I am wondering if I did not tighten the 7mm center bolt on the plug all the way and maybe that is why my electrical connector is not sitting flush. I Tightened the center bolt to where it was snug but I was in fear of over tightening it to where it would snap. Some of the videos say tighten the center bolt 22 pound inches. Others say hand tighten only. I do not want to over tighten that bolt.

HAs anyone worked with the electrical connector and its plug. What was the tongue used and does the electrical connector seat all the down into the plug or does it extend out somewhat

 

[QUOTE=SrWilliams;935018]Okay:

Thanks to everyone's help here I have made tremendous progress on addressing my limp mode issue. As I previously related a shop indicated that I had 2 sensor codes causing the limp mode. I ordered the conductor plate/sensor kit from Euro and successfully replace the plate.

I then ordered the Autel Diaglink and successfully erased all codes. But sadly I am still in limp mode. But there are no longer any codes showing.

In all of my research here one of the forum members had the same issue after replacing the conductor plate and electronic connector. and was still in limp mode. He then wrote he purchased a used TCM and that fixed the problem.

I have a couple of questions. Does the OBD Code reader show a bad or malfunctioning TCM, because I am not getting a code for that?

If it does not then how do you analyze or troubleshoot to see if the tcl is bad?

Right now I am still in first or second gear with no shifting on my automatic transmission (2007 crossfire base model). I might add that on the auto trans you are able to move the shifter to the right to manually shift gears from drive to first and on up. But I am unable to shift with the shifter as it stays in drive. Hope this provides further insight

I am making process, you guys do not give up on me now.

Williams
Hey did you figure that out because mine's doing the same thing right now and I don't want to replace a bunch of stuff if somebody or if you know how to get it out a limp mode

 

First where are you? you have too many things that did not fix the problem,, things that keep you IN limp mode is
wheel sensor, conductor plate could have ONE bolt too tight in it , the may be not be install correctly electronic connector,
your shifter could also cause limp mode,, who did the installs? the tcu only exchanges with abase and some limited if you
have the TCU that came in the car ,,send it to tighted1 see here https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html
there are members that have electronics' background and we/they still send the tcu to him when we know(how do we know because we know the tcu from the
factory is going to fail every one that does not want to get stuck on a trip,,,, just to the store or a 1000 miles we carry a spare TCU if U or a other person tried to fix the solders on the tcu
then that was your problem from the start, now there are other things that cause limp mode but that is another day jim

 

Jim, your mixing up TCM and RCM. I think the new poster is in Missouri

 

jaysondf99:
"Hey did you figure that out because mine's doing the same thing right now and I don't want to replace a bunch of stuff if somebody or if you know how to get it out a limp mode"

There are many things that cause limp mode and no simple one stop fix. Best place to start is getting a good diagnostic scan of your car that will find not just generic OBD II codes but also the factory DTCs. If you do not have a scan tool some auto parts stores may help for free or get your car to an independent shop that specializes in European cars (no dealers). If the scan tool used doesn't recognize the Chrysler Crossfire, scan it as a 2003 Mercedes Benz SLK 320 if you have a natural aspirated car, or an Mercedes SLK 32 if it is a supercharged SRT6.

 

Zip, you are right, sorry about that ,,,getting old i guess. The tcu and tcm are the same transmission control unit / module,, and the RCM is what runs the entire car and should always
never do yourself and send to tighted 1for the best and correct repair..