I have almost 40k miles now, started at maybe 38k. its a deep knock, goes up with RPMS then stops at 1000. It is damn loud and if u have windows down next to another car or wall it gets really annoying. Someone told me it is probably the valve lifters. Anyone know how much this will run. I am out of warranty

 

Lifters are a tick that goes away with RPM. A spun bearing is a knock that is loud and goes up with RPM.

If it's a bearing you are looking at a rebuild.

 

I don't know as far as price but things like the oil and weight you choose sometimes effect things like that. Are you confident the correct lube is in there? My SRT tapped when I brought it home from the dealership where I bought it. They just performed service that included an oil change. I wanted to make sure the right oil was in the car so I changed it myself after I had it about two weeks. It went away and never returned in two years. Not saying this is a cure for mechanical issues but it is a simple thing that some overlook. The tolerences in these motors are very close thus my car calling for 0W40.

 

it goes up with RPM, but cuts off and runs smooth above 1000.

 

Here's an easy question for you:

Did you EVER run the car with low or no oil in it?

 

The last time I had to changed they put 5W-40. They said Chrysler recommended it now and 0W-40 was becoming discontinued

 

No. I checked the oil after each change, I checked it when I heard the knock, it was at max

 

If your car calls for 0W-40, you must run that weight. They are telling you the wrong thing. What brand did they put in?

 

not sure. I will go to my other place I had it done before that can get 0W-40 and have it changed.

 

If I am not mistaken, a lot of the new Dodge vehicles call for 0W-40. I also have a diesel Cherokee Jeep and without fail, they always want to put in the wrong oil. I just don't believe they have interest in stocking the correct oil for the Jeep.

 

I am going to have to go before work this week since Im going to the dragon. I am at about 4k miles into my change so its probably good

 

Make sure they are using a good quality filter. Some restrict oil flow which would not be good under any circumstances. I buy over the internet and use Mann Fleece. In order to save you some money, you may want to consider changing your oil filter yourself in between oil changes for more assurance. Say you go 6,000 between changes, then change the filter at 4,000 etc. Really simple to change and since it is on top, no mess to deal with.

 

Thanks Romio.

First of all, it is extremely unlikely that you have rod knock or a spun bearing if your oil was never empty.

Although 0W-40 should be used, it still shouldn't cause a knock in your engine.

Second, if it is truly knock, then it shouldn't go away at 1000 rpm, it would get worse with your RPMs.

My guess is that what you're hearing is something related to the emissions system.

 

what about valve lifters?

 

I know two Crossfires that had the tap/knock and both had the incorrect oil weight in them. I am not saying all Crossfires running 5W will experience a tap but it is worth the time to have it changed. I have been after Amsoil for a long time as I am a strong believer in that product to see where they stand on a 0W-40 and they keep telling me they are in testing with it. They said I could use their 5W oil as a replacement if I wanted but a guy that I confide in at Amsoil told me if it were him, he would stay with the 0W-40 so what does that tell you? Many shops just don't want to deal with carrying 0W-40 so they will tell you just about anything.

 

Just as a heads up, MB has changed all motors to 5w40 M-formula. 0w40 was deemed too thin at startup.

 

soooo... my 5W-40 is not wrong? and im guessing its not the cause of the knocking?

 

Check your waterpump. When my bearings went the pulley would wobble and cause a loud knocking sound(belt tensioner would get overextended). There should be minimal play in it. Didn't leak any water either. A quick check by hand on a non running engine with the belt on or off is a good idea as this is a common failure.

 

Another possibility, if the knock only occurs while moving, could be a bad CV joint on the drive shaft.

 

it does, but also at idle, and only under 1000 RPM, doesn't change with hot or cold engine