Just completed my LED signal light conversion. My intention was to have the white lens effect when not on and have the instant on, instant off effect. It just looks cool and up with the times.

2 load resistors are required per side. However, to keep the resistors out of sight, I have mounted both resistors on the taillight assy.

Correction: The thread title should have read: LED signal conversion

 

I am sure you are aware that those load resistors get VERY hot in use.... since they are on the turn signals it will likely not be an issue, but I would check them a few times after using the signals and ensure that they are not going to damage your light assembly.....


I used them on my license plate LED mod and mounted the resistors on the inside of the hatch frame so they would have heat sinks and not be an issue......

 

Nice job....very well done. Looks like you used GTF wiring?

 

They do get hot allright. However, they are not mounted on the light assy. See last pic

I have replaced most of the lighting in and outside the car with LED's. I reasoned that the "light out indicator system is unable to tell me when an LED is out, I have opted to cancel it and therefore avoid installing a load resistor for every converted bulb. Back to the good ol circle check!

 

Thanks Sparkie. Yes, the GTF wiring came with the load resistors.

 

As mentioned by MikeR those things must run hot because GTF is rated for 125C.

 

What controls the bulb out indicator. Could it be modified to be compatible with LEDs?

 

I looked at the wiring diagrams and see the bulb out lamp is controlled by the Illumination Control Module and don't think messin with that is a practical solution. But what if the lamp wire between the ICM and instruments is cut?

 

And the highest temp rating I have found for CABLE TIES is 100 C.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-ties/=emnhav

 

I get your point. Will have to get the infrared thermometer out.