I am just wanting to get my door pulls completely off. I got to here....

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Now, I want to get the back plate off. Do I have to remove the door panel to get it off? I loosened the screws as showed in the picture, but still cannot remove the back plate.

The chrome is peeling on the back of the hand pull, and I am concerned someone will cut themselves. I am going to cover them in a CF wrap.

 

Thanks for the instructions. I got my panels off and covered the door pulls and the tweeter/handle cover in CF. The size for the torxs are t-5 and t-25.
Also posting picture of back of door panel, the back of the door pulls which looks like some cheap crap.

The Door Pulls are plastic with a chrome like wrap and it's not a one piece wrap, thats why it peels.

If anyone wants to take off the door pulls without removing the whole panel, it is possible.
I don't recommend you doing it though. If you have something very small, thin, and sharp, you could shove it through the slots from the front of the pulls and cut off the tabs. It holds it on the door panel, but the torx screws will hold it in place anyways. Haven't turned up the music yet though, so I dont know if it will make the door rattle more or not. I hope it doesn't make it rattle cause I spent like 20 mins trying to take the pulls of the panel with the panel off the door and couldn't figure out how to. So I took a knife and cut off the tabs.

I can also turn ACRucrazy's instructions into pdf file if anyone wants.

 

If you break the sail panel like I did, get a replacement from the stealership.
I looked on the chrysler oem parts site and the listed price was $17 for this little piece of shi.. err plastic. I decided to go to the stealership and was expecting to pay $25+ for it, but to my surprise it was only $5, cheaper than any website I found. This must be a first that the stealership was cheaper.

Part Numbers
driver side 05098271AA
passenger side 05098272AA

 

I took off a door panel the other day to adjust the glass. Here is what the door looks like without the inner liner and speaker

 

Dave, any luck with the adjustment or just an exercise in futility?

 

Hopefully I have adjusted it, time will tell. My fishing buddy said the window was noisy in the top front corner, he is deaf in one ear but not that ear.
So I asked my wife and she said the whole car was noisy. Women!
I am writing a "How to" with pics, I have done the pictures. Now I have to write it up. Easy enough to do the job, one broken clip but it may have been already broken.
I just had to adjust the tilt, not the fore/aft or up/down. No rust in the door at all fortunately.

 

Sorry I missed your post. I cured one area but you can hear the air below the sail panel, so not 100%.

 

I removed the doors today to install Dynamat and new door speakers. After putting them back on, along with the trim pieces, I have discovered that I didn't seat them correctly along the top against the rubber seal. There is a small gap. Where exactly is the door panel supposed to hit the seal?

 

They, the panels, just hook over the top and then drop down, maybe the Dynamat is too close to the top? I have forgotten what it looks like now.

 

Thanks. Got it figured out. Like an idiot, I wasn't hooking the lips.

 

Awesome write up! Had an irritating window rattle when the window was down on the pass door. Got the panel off in about 5 mins. Luckily a simple fix...the top nut for the front window track vibrated off and the track rattled. Found the nut in the bottom of the door, tightened it up and good to go. Pulled the driver seat out today too to fix the heated seat and the bad driver subwoofer...so many little things to fix this winter!

 

Yes, I'm aware this is an older thread, but I'm just taking a break from the door removal.

It is stuck at the upper rear corner. Yes, tweeter wires are removed as is the cable hood from the door latch.

What is in essence holding up the removal are two minuscule Torx screws. I not only have a pretty good assortments of Torx tools, but I even have one that is even smaller, but my next one up is too big.

The edge of the plastic piece the two screws are holding is what is making removal Very Difficult. All I can see is to bend the plastic enough to get the door undone. Not how I like to do things.

Anyone have a source and size for this particular size of male Torx socket?

Biba

 

T-9
See this PDF.

 

Are you talking about this piece? 2-5.png

If so it's a size T8 or T9 both works. I use one of these

 

If A T-9 fits then you should only use a T-9. If you use a T-8 it can ruin the socket and then the T-9 will possibly not fit either after a while. ALWAYS use the biggest size that fits anything else will cause damage to the socket especially the larger sizes that are tightened with a lot more torque.
We have seen the damage done to the SRT6 belt tensioner bolt head because of the wrong socket was used and the steering wheel Torx screws because an undersize tool was used.

Moral; always use the correct tool.

 

Thank you for this. It really did help me and keep me from breaking old plastic clips.