I have a 2005 Roadster base model. I have manual seats in them. I came across a deal and picked up a pair of power leather seats out of a limited.

I need to know the best way to get power to seat. There are two connections with 2 wires a piece in the floor under manual seat. The 14 gauge (red and brown) wire connector was not even connected to anything on manual seat. But less than 1v of power is in it. How do I get 12v under both seats?

The only way I know offhand is running a wire through the firewall and fusing it with an online 30a fuse at the battery. Is there an easier way?

Thanks!
Matt

 

There are both battery and switched ignition tiepoints at the back of the underhood fuse box on the driver's side. You take the 'fuse deck' out and at the back you find 2 or 3 tiepoints in the form of stud-with-nut and oodles of wires connected there.

There is an EASY path from there into the area under the dash, once you get the "fuse deck' out of the box (you can pull it up and away maybe 2 inches), shine a bright light into the area near the studs in the back. NOW, open the driver's door and take the fuse cover off the end of the dash - you will see the light shining in there. Use a stiff (and preferably nonconductive) wire to fish the wire from the box under the hood to the area behind the light switch.

You can then run it down under the carpet to the seat area. YOu'd probably do well to remove the trim around the door opening to route the wire. Many of us have had to open that area up to run new, heavier speaker wires.

Do not try to find power enough for a seat motor under the dash. Sure, you can tap the feed to the ignition switch - but you are setting yourself up for a "Dr. Phil" moment, instead, get your power where they did for the seats and for most of the high current stuff in the car) - that tiepoint in the fuse box! (Now REALLY high current stuff, like hte 50 amp run to the engine fan, comes from the little black box next to the battery. THere is a 200 amp fuse in there that feeds the tiepoints that I spoke of above. )

 

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh, I forgot. I owned two Limiteds before I bought my SE (which is a Base) and I can tell you that the limited seats are crap.

That is, you are making a mistake putting them in the car. No, really, I never realized what CRAPPY seats they are.
You want comfort? You want your passenger staying put in the fast curves? Then you want BASE SEATS.

 

Keep the passenger in their seat by putting Velcro on their asses and on the seat.
You should have purchased an SRT rag top, they are better at keeping their value. Cheaper base models will be the first to tank when people realize what Special Edition means, base speaks for itself.
Look to the future, buy an SRT. You talked about it but let it tslide.

 

Had I already bought the truck, which is a stick, THEN bought the car, I think it may have been an SRT this time.
It was all timing. THis is Roadster #3, we will see what happens next.

As to resale on the car - I do NOT care. I can't see myself selling it, ever.


And I really am serious, I rode with Zach Joslyn to the parts store at our last tech day - I could not stand those damn seats. Seriously.

 

It Worked! Thanks for the advice. Just one more question:

Now that I have put in the powered seats and have them powered them with a new power run, the connector that connected to the original seats is just loose. This causes the Airbag light to be illuminated. What do I need to do to get the airbag light off?

By the way, I now have 2 base seats I would like to sell. As for buying the Base over SRT... Would have loved a SRT, just came across a deal. Only paid 4k for Base.

Thank you again for helping!

Matt

 

I'm guessing that at some point you powered up a circuit that was in the airbag system while that circuit was not complete. If so the dealer is the only one that can possibly reset that light although I doubt it.That loose connector is the cause of your problem it should have been correctly wired to the new seat wiring and not made redundant.

 

Apparently the Icarsoft MB II scanner will read and reset SRS system (airbag) on the R170, presumably on the Crossfire also. I picked one up mostly for the GLK, as I find the the cost of service at MB dealers to be outrageous. I hope I never have to use it, but just in case.

 

I have a bright idea, let's pull you steering wheel air bag and then disconnect the battery and then reconnect the battery and put the sir bag back on.
We will then test your new toy to see if it resets the light.
I can be at your place by ten Monday morning.

 

I have a brighter idea, let's test it out on your car.........see you @ 10!

 

Hello,

i would like to open again the conversación, because I have a crossfire with manual seats without leather and I want to upgrate the actual seats with límited edition seats. I'm going to but a pair of límited edition seats, even though, It would be helpful if someone has pictures, típs,... about the eléctrical instalation to power each electrical seat.

Thank you

 

You should download the service manual if you are going to try this.

There is no need to put in the seat relay and associated wiring. SImply run the power lead from each seat to the fuse box next to the battery and power both seats from one fuse.
I would use a 30 amp MIDI fuse as shown below.

Added fuse in fuse box:


Use AMI/MIDI fuses rated at 30 amp:

 

Thank you so much for the information and the quick response. Manual got it

Does the MIDI fuse 30A power both seats?
How many cables go to each seat? And, how many cables come from the MIDI fuse?
Do I need special connectors to plug the cables in the seat?

Sorry for the amount of questions 😅

Hopefully, the seats will be delivered to me this week, as soon as receive them I'll start the job.😁

Thanks

 

i have a set of 2001 slk320 black seats for anyone looking to do a conversion, we were going to put them into a 98 slk230 until we found the early slk's didnt have a wire harness under the seat either.