Is that correct thinking?

I had changed out the back woofers and maybe the body loom was affected during that operation.

I could just reroute a new (Pin 16) wire through the bottom of the trunk to get to the connector behind the passenger trunk separator latch and bypass the (potentially) bad body loom.

I am not sure of the body loom routing, but it might go in the back wall of the passenger compartment and be quite messy.

Any other suggestions?

I disconnected the PTCM cable end on the body loom and also the connector on the body loom behind the passenger trunk separator hook. That isolated the wiring loom in the body from the wiring loom in the trunk lid. I did not get a grounded signal on the latch retainer switch wire(Pin 16) on the trunk lid loom, but I did get a grounded signal on Pin 16 from body wiring loom.

That indicates to me the that the green/white (Pin 16) is getting grounded in the body loom causing a constant open trunk signal.

Sounds like you are one of the most experienced trunk lock wiring experts!

I followed your logic on the trunk not closed threads. I was getting a trunk open signal no matter what position that the trunk was in. So based on your description that means that wire 16 on the PTCM module is being grounded. In the case you were describing, the trunk retainer switch was malfunctioning ( closed) grounding out pin 16 on the PTCM. I chased that for a while by disconnecting the switch as you recommended and switch replacement, but I was still getting a trunk open signal on the DRBIII emulator.

sounds like the keyway is worn out,, you could have it welded up and recut lot cheaper than new one,,, i got mine from rob,,needswings I prefer a new one myself as harding the keyway is no easy to do.

Has anyone had success with replacing the high beam H7 55W bulbs with something brighter (not HID)