Forgot to mention. Today the mechanic attempted to correct the weak brakes by repacking the wheel bearings up front. I don't get the logic on that decision.

This is why I am leery of using mechanics: the mechanics called to tell me my car was finished, I asked what was wrong with it; why did ESP/ABS light come on? They didn't know there was a light. They didn't know the brakes didn't work when I picked it up. So, I said I can't take it back if it's not working and there is no explanation of the problem. They said everything g is fine now, come pick it up. I show up four hours later and the brakes drop to the floor with no grip until 90% compression. The lady at the front desk called he owner/ mechanic and he said he couldn't talk. He was in the car going out of town. So I had to leave my car again. Lead technician didn't know if they checked for a code and saw the problem both times and agreed with me that it's not right.

This is why I am always leery of mechanics: went to pick the car up today. They didn't notice anything weird about the transmission even though it kicks in the transition from four to three , like I told them. They didn't do anything about or have any opinion about the delay on the accelerator. The alignment all seems different, even though they weren't supposed to do an alignment. I work on it every weekend so am methodical about ride height and fitment. . The front is lower than in my pictures from recent, the rear left wheel isn't in the wheel well straight anymore. I can't imagine what happened there. And the big one, the one thing they said they fixed: brakes. Brake/ABS/ESP dash light is on and had to run the first red light I came to. Brakes didn't grab until 90% then the light came on. We'll see how the exhaust turned out when I get it back from them the second time. Hopefully, everything works out better than expected.

Brought the car into a shop- Eurosport Auto Care in Maryland. I have only gotten the preliminary diagnoisis from them, no work. I am so leery of mechanics, and here's a bit of why: I get under the car two days a week for a few hours and mostly focus on the suspension. They said multiple parts are loose. I've tightened everything three times and had other mechanics do the same. 150 bucks to tighten bolts. If I want better steering, replace all the control arms for 1400, and my rear upper control arms are bad and need replacing now. There are no rear upper control arms in this car according to the service manual. There are a set in the front. I'm going to go into the shop and point at the problem. Maybe it is just a naming scheme not used in my manual.

Edit: trailing link is the synonym for their word: rear upper rearward control arm. They said it's worn out and it's -four or six hundred to replace. I ordered for $30 each OEM on rockauto.

Brought the car into a shop- Eurosport Auto Care in Maryland. I have only gotten the preliminary diagnoisis from them, no work. I am so leery of mechanics, and here's a bit of why:I told them the brakes don't engage correctly, they don't do anything until you've pressed the pedal down to 20%, then they grab fine and don't display any signs of worn master cylinder or air in the lines. I've bled them twice. They came back and said they wanted to flush the fluid to get air out of the lines 180 bucks. We'll see. Is it just another wasted step in their attempt at diagnosis by replacing stuff shotgun style?

Brought the car into a shop- Eurosport Auto Care in Maryland. I have only gotten the preliminary diagnoisis from them, no work. I am so leery of mechanics, and here's a bit of why: I told them the exhaust is pulling itself loose due to shoddy work from the last mechanic. It has broken welds and pulled out a bolt because there aren't enough hooks, and the metal is too soft to hold the bolt. They came back and told me it'll be 140 bucks to put a bolt back in and tighten the exhaust clamps. I tightened the exhaust clamps 4 days ago. We'll see how it goes, I told them again that the exhaust bolt won't stay in the subframe, it is too soft. And there are broken welds on the downpipe that need fixed. To do it proper, they'll need to add hooks and support it better.

Fuel pump just cant do the difference, its a matter of exhaust restriction and flow. Greatly reduced drop in pressure causes the crackle and note, if this guy sounds the same, Iam a bit taken back. Good to have met up with you wednesday, Woody. If there is a meet up next week, I might be able to suprise you with something different.

Made a friend drive the car so I could turn around and pay attention to the clunking. Immediately noticed it happens at a variety of times at different noise levels. It happens when turning the wheel, but only while in gear and not moving. First thought was parking brake is squeaking or something, but pulling the parking brake tighter while driving didn't stop the clunk on bumps. So, I got out and felt stuff for vibration while she turned the wheel in drive at a stop. Everything I touched except the shock was vibrating. Differential, control arm (right), spring. The only things I can think of with enough oomph to vibrate the diff, are the engine and the brakes. I know the driveshaft support bearing is worn so that's my next possible Solution. I hold no hope.

I brought the track bar back to the original setting and instead moved camber and toe to adjust the wheel. Car feels the same or almost the same as when I started. Tracks easily right on slightly graded roads and resist tracking left. If it resisted both ways I would be happy. I'm doing both camber and toe by eye. Since I had a full alignment a month ago and all the tires were tight except this one, I just need to make it right and all should be well. I

Interestingly, after making the track bar too short, the steering wheel may be sideways but handling feels way tighter with the constant tension created by the back wheels trying to steer right. It also made the body roll on accel and decel way worse. Maybe the caster is too far forward and causing weird instability.