Hoping someone can help me. My SRT will not start, has 33K miles. I have owned it for 10 years, first time it has failed. The sequence of events:

-Old battery died, recharged it.
-Drove car, noticed soft brake pedal.
-BAS/ESP light came on.
-Did the turn steering wheel all the way to left/right, light still on.
-Couple days later, tried to start the car, started, wasn't running right, turned the key off within a couple seconda, it would not restart.
-Tried to start it again and will not turn over, just clicks and the lights on the dash flutter.
-Key fob won't work to open/lock doors.
-Replaced car battery with new one, kept new battery on battery tender.
-Put new batteries in key fob.
-Got key fob to work by pressing twice and turning key to on position.
-Tried to start the car, will not start, no change from before.
-Replaced RCM, no change
-Replaced camshaft sensor, no change
-Disconnected the battery, both + and -, turned key to on for 30 minutes, no change
-Bought an icarsoft scanner, after clearing the codes, the codes that keep coming back include:
P2300 under the transmission section
B1040
P1174
P1175
-Also noticed that with the key turned on, I cannot get the transmission out of park

Plan to change the crankshaft sensor this weekend. Could it be the brake switch?

I am not knowledgeable on electronics, so I have been trying things that I have read on other threads, any help is appreciated.

 

The break switch code would be PO571.
The code your giving , under Actron search , says.
P2300 : ignition coil "A" primary control circuit low.
P1174 : manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering.
P1175 : same as above.
B1040 : I could not find , but B is a body code.
The transmission will not come out of park until the car is running or you engage the emergency release. Trap door at the bottom of the gear selector.
Check your ground wires for corrosion at the fender grounding lug , also the cable itself up into the covering jacket. It's been a problem before.
Sorry , i have no more advice right now , but I'm following if anything else may turn up.

 

I replaced the brake switch a couple months back. My BAS/ESP light was on and the wing would not retract. The new brake light switch cured that problem, but the car would always start and ran fine. I doubt changing the brake light switch will help with your problems.
I would first be certain you have a good ground as Steve Jr recommends, and I would also test the starter to be certain that is not your problem. Isolate it from the car electrical, disconnect both positive and negative battery leads and then supply just the starter with 12v power to be certain it is good.

 

Thank you both for the info and suggestions. I am going to spend time this weekend working on it. Any suggestions on checking the ground? Again, pure novice when it comes to electric. I put a meter on pos side of battery and neg on motor, it reads the same as the battery out put. I put pos on battery and negative on the bolt on fender, same outcome. Not sure if what I did makes any sense?

I agree, I need to rule out the starter.

 

Update, put in new crankshaft sensor, tried to start, no change.

Decided to tap the starter from underneath with wooden handle. Car started, ran rough and died. I started it again ran ok, then missed while idling. Turned it off, started again ran better, noticed check engine light on. Now I have the following codes:

Still have B1040, P2300, P1174, P1175, new code P2034.

So happy to have the car start, now need to sort out the rest. Any suggestions welcome.

 

P2034 : Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor
. Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Could be the air pump is going bad or the exhaust sensor is bad. I don't know if that would be up stream or down stream. I would guess up stream sense its saying temperature. Maybe ask "padgett" , i believe he uses a icarsoft scanner on his vehicles.

 

Update: Replaced the starter, I can eliminate the starter as the issue. I have power to the starter from the battery, when the key is turned to crank the engine, I am not reading any power to the solenoid post.

Still have B1040, P2300, P1174, P1175 codes.

Any suggestions welcome, including suggestions on mechanics in the Cleveland OH area.

 

Go to the pulse module an see if it's getting 12 volts to it to supply the starter with power, If it does , then the pulse module would be your problem. If anyone else has a different diagnostic version please chime in now..
Did you buy a new RCM?
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First you need to download the 2005 service manual from the archives, it has most of the DTCs
What I get is:
B1040- NO CAN COMMUNICATIONS WITH YAW RATE/ACCELERATION SENSOR
P1174 - STEERING ANGLE SENSOR NOT INITIALIZED
P1175 - STEERING ANGLE SENSOR MOMENTARILY NOT INITIALIZED
P2300 - Ignition Coil 'A' Primary Control Circuit Low


Do not think any of these would keep it from starting but the RCM or SKREEM could.

 

Glad you chimed in, Padgett..... Have you recently spilled anything down in the console Nats65?

 

No but I always cover the shifter when parked with the top down. Was a surprise that the shifter module in a convertible is not waterproof.

 

Thank you both for your help. The rcm was replaced with a new rcm, nothing spilled inside the car.

Can you point me in the right direction in checking the pulse module.

 

The pulse module is located in the under hood fuse box at the very outside by the fender.
Do you have a buddy with a XF ? Swapping is the easiest way to check it.

 

Need a bit more information: is the starter working and the engine firing ? Or starter cranking and engine not starting ? Or the starter not cranking at all ? This has gotten confused since the first post.


ps shifter in console was something completely different.

 

The starter is not cranking at all.

It just occurred to me that I should try jumping the new starter to see if the car will start, does that make sense?

Unfortunately, I do not know anyone else with a crossfire to swap the pulse module.

 

Yes, that makes sense.
Where in 'US' are you located ?

 

This thread has got confusing, the car started after tapping the starter motor and now it does not even after a new starter has been installed.

The gear shift should come out of park without the engine running, you just turn the ignition key and put your foot on the brake. How would you pull the car up on to a tow truck bed otherwise?

I suggest an updated description of problems like the one shown in the first post.

 

I am outside of Cleveland OH

 

Update:

Discovered that my battery connection and the fender was not making good contact. Really frustrating, could not see any corrosion, discovered the negative battery cable was warm after trying to start the car and turning on the lights. Cleaned with a wire brush, the car now starts.

Thank you for all your help. Glad to have a running srt again.