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New Member IntroductionsWelcome new members !!
This is the place to post a new thread and introduce yourself and tell us a little about yourself and what model Crossfire you just bought or are looking to buy.
Threads created for anything other than introductions are subject to be moved to the appropriate section in the forum for the topic being posted.
Hail! I live in West Columbia, a suburb of Columbia SC. I just bought an automatic 2005 red crossfire convertible.
Here is a picture before purchase:
And finally in my driveway:
Like most old car, this girl is only 2 years away from being 20, they have issues. sigh. So me being a halfway capable, I will be bringing this car up to spec. I took it for a drive last night and developed a punch list. I will get into that at the end. Right now, I am going to *****, complain, laminate, how previous owners neglected, modified, attempted repairs ruining otherwise a very fine car.
The window fell out over the weekend. I did a glue rush job and suspect that I will be doing this over again. The previous owner said the top was recently done. I strongly suspect that was badly done or just old.
One of the previous owners, smoked the head lights. Well this is a bad idea, when I drove last night, I almost got hit a few times. And I could barely see the road with high beams on. So I will be looking for replacements and just pulling them apart and cleaning out the paint.
The guy I bought the cross fire replaced the tires with new wheels and did not put in new TPMS (tire pressure monitoring sensors). Should I keep the new wheels or go back stock?
I suspect the previous owners had issues with the automatic lift top. I had to cut off the tie wrap for the trunk divider sensor that overrode the microswitch. The top controller was tie wrapped in place. I had to wipe up hydraulic fluid.
I found this thing, what is it?
Does it have a mounting place in the trunk?
The guy messed up the coin/ash tray when installing an aftermarket radio. I suspect I will be switching out the aftermarket radio with something that supports Bluetooth. Or just keep it, and put a headset in the car.
He took out all the lightbulbs in the map light. ARRGGHHH, I plan to get LED lights and replace what I can.
A little 'bout me:
I am an firmware engineering working for a tool company. I write software for very expensive fastening tools used on production lines. My daily driver is a Hyundai Elantra GT. I like hatchbacks. I have a strong background in aviation and gliding. My most current hobby is ballroom or swing dancing. Hey, it's where the girls are!
Punch List of repairs. No particular order. Any specific advice on any of the items would be appreciated. I know a lot about cars, but I don't know the crossfire.
Smoke headlights, replaced or cleaned out, pronto. This is extreme safety issue.
Need bulbs for the map light
The car has a lamp indicator on the dash
When just starting the car BEEPS angerly and I have no idea what she is trying to say to me.
I have a tire indicator light on the dash. I suspect after market tires with no TPM sensors. Any advice on what to buy and how to get them programmed?
The tunnel between seats at the gear shift, gets really really warm when driving.
The convertible top does not work. No surprised there. I suspect that will have multiple issues including needing rebuilt hydraulics.
The locks don't work.
The car at idle when warm up hesitates and almost cuts off.
The car is really slow on acceleration on initial pedal push. But once there is some RPMS, the engine kicks.
The transmission fluid is suspect and should be flushed and changed.
The oil needs changing.
The brakes are squeaky
The hand brake or emergency brake does not work at all. How does the emergency brake work on this car? Cable to drums?
That's about all I can think of at this time.
Last edited by xintersecty; Aug 15, 2023 at 08:50 AM.
The window fell out over the weekend. I did a glue rush job and suspect that I will be doing this over again. The previous owner said the top was recently done. I strongly suspect that was badly done or just old.
One of the previous owners, smoked the head lights. Well this is a bad idea, when I drove last night, I almost got hit a few times. And I could barely see the road with high beams on. So I will be looking for replacements and just pulling them apart and cleaning out the paint.
The guy I bought the cross fire replaced the tires with new wheels and did not put in new TPMS (tire pressure monitoring sensors). Should I keep the new wheels or go back stock?
I suspect the previous owners had issues with the automatic lift top. I had to cut off the tie wrap for the trunk divider sensor that overrode the microswitch. The top controller was tie wrapped in place. I had to wipe up hydraulic fluid.
I found this thing, what is it?
Does it have a mounting place in the trunk?
The guy messed up the coin/ash tray when installing an aftermarket radio. I suspect I will be switching out the aftermarket radio with something that supports Bluetooth. Or just keep it, and put a headset in the car.
He took out all the lightbulbs in the map light. ARRGGHHH, I plan to get LED lights and replace what I can.
You bought the car from an asshat, but you already know that. Prepare yourself for a long path in getting this car back to where it should be.
You need a new top. BAS in the UK is where you go for them, $800 or so delivered to your door. Zach Joslyn lives near Savannah/Myrtle Beach, in SC, he can replace the top for $300 if you dont' want to bother.
The pump is the central locking pump / security system module (CLP/SSM) and it is prone to water following the wiring harness from around the fuel door, ruining the CLP/SSM. It goes UNDER the foam in an insulated blanket. He pulled it out to avoid water damage or because he had issues making hte top system work. (The CLP/SSM will make the top fail way more often than the top controller.)
The divider switch is a crappy, bad design. MANY of us have bypassed it.
IF you have fluid leaking, you will eventually be sending cylinders to Oregon for reworking, you have leaks and they are not going to get better.
I like those wheels, my car is a base and has no TPMS and thats fine. The TPMS is a PITA and expensive to keep working.
Here is Zach and Bob changing my top in a condo parking lot before breakfast during the Eureka Springs meet.
Make sure you attend this meet, Zach will be there as well as a ton of people who can help you with advice on what you have to deal with.
I'll be there (I think) but point is, it's a great social event but it's also a great place for a new owner - not only can we TELL you about the car, we can SHOW YOU; saves a lot of time when you start working on it. Click here to GET THERE.
TODAY, order a spare Crank Sensor and Relay Control Module, put them IN THE TRUNK so you are ready when the car stalls in traffic or refuses to start as you leave the store - it's gonna happen. With those parts, you need no mechanic.... without those parts, no mechanic can help you.
Be sure to visit your local Chrysler dealer any time anything goes wrong so they can take your money and not fix anything. Then go to the Mercedes dealer and hear them tell you it's not their car (it is). IOW, we are all you have for tech support, and it's why so many of us never leave here. I"m on my third Roadster since 2009.
WHen your RCM fails (it will fail, period) put the spare in and send the bad one to DJ in Arizona, for $65 it will come back to you with reflowed solder and four new relays.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Aug 15, 2023 at 10:22 AM.
Make sure you attend this meet, Zach will be there as well as a ton of people who can help you with advice on what you have to deal with. I'll be there (I think) but point is, it's a great social event but it's also a great place for a new owner - not only can we TELL you about the car, we can SHOW YOU; saves a lot of time when you start working on it. Click here to GET THERE.
I registered today. I will need to book the hotel room or find something close. Prsonally I need a freaking vacation
TODAY, order a spare Crank Sensor and Relay Control Module, put them IN THE TRUNK so you are ready when the car stalls in traffic or refuses to start as you leave the store - it's gonna happen. With those parts, you need no mechanic.... without those parts, no mechanic can help you.
I got them on my amazon list, just need to pay for them! Thank you!
Be sure to visit your local Chrysler dealer any time anything goes wrong so they can take your money and not fix anything. Then go to the Mercedes dealer and hear them tell you it's not their car (it is). IOW, we are all you have for tech support, and it's why so many of us never leave here. I"m on my third Roadster since 2009.
There is a reason why we call the stealership the stealership. I have turned enough wrenches to know my own bad mechanical work is better than the dealers shop.
Valuable info here. Also use the search feature in the top R/H corner. Others will probably give you specifics on issues.
Wonderful link! thank you zeracer
Since those guys live in SC, I might be taking a road trip to see Zach Joslyn .
You have a long road ahead of you, but in the end you will enjoy it. Good luck with your adventure. It appears the rear wheels are the same as the front, so the offset is wrong. The rear wheels are tucked under too far and smaller diameter than factory rear wheels. James
Punch List of repairs. No particular order. Any specific advice on any of the items would be appreciated. I know a lot about cars, but I don't know the crossfire.
Smoke headlights, replaced or cleaned out, pronto. This is extreme safety issue.
Need bulbs for the map light
The car has a lamp indicator on the dash
When just starting the car BEEPS angerly and I have no idea what she is trying to say to me.
I have a tire indicator light on the dash. I suspect after market tires with no TPM sensors. Any advice on what to buy and how to get them programmed?
The tunnel between seats at the gear shift, gets really really warm when driving.
The convertible top does not work. No surprised there. I suspect that will have multiple issues including needing rebuilt hydraulics.
The locks don't work.
The car at idle when warm up hesitates and almost cuts off.
The car is really slow on acceleration on initial pedal push. But once there is some RPMS, the engine kicks.
The transmission fluid is suspect and should be flushed and changed.
The oil needs changing.
The brakes are squeaky
The hand brake or emergency brake does not work at all. How does the emergency brake work on this car? Cable to drums?
That's about all I can think of at this time.
My car beeps also when I start it, that's normal.
Is this the beeping you're talking about?
My car beeps also when I start it, that's normal. Is this the beeping you're talking about?
Yes! Thank you, ok so that's normal. Once I start driving, I get the same beep beep beep beep pattern. I know the car is trying to say something....I I just don't know what. Of course I have many failure indicator lamps. I will take a picture of the failures and post. Some of them I understand, some I don't.
Yes! Thank you, ok so that's normal. Once I start driving, I get the same beep beep beep beep pattern. I know the car is trying to say something....I I just don't know what. Of course I have many failure indicator lamps. I will take a picture of the failures and post. Some of them I understand, some I don't.
If the red light on the top button is blinking or on, the beep is the PTCM telling you the top movement cycle did not complete or the PTCM is confused, most often due to sync loss or an error somewhere (the CLP/SSM is suspect here).
We will get you thru all of this, it just may take time and several threads here.
My latest questions. I am going to change the oil. Checking the manual. It's says MB 229.3 or Mobil 1 SAE 01w-40. the only thing I can get at my local advance auto is Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40, Any experience with this oil? oil type
I looked at the manual regarding the auto transmission. If the transmission fluid was changed at 80,000 miles as specified. Theoretically I should not need to change the fluid. Because this car is unknown, should I go ahead get the ATF and transmission filter and change the fluid? Rock auto has all in one kit including the harness plug sleeve. This weekend I plan to jack the car up and do a under the car inspection. I still need to figure out why the transmission shifter tunnel is getting hot. The car is at 130K miles Rock Auto Auto Trans PM Kit
I use what is local and available that has on the side:
"MB229.3 Approval" or "MB229.3 Approved".
I only run 5W40, I have used 5W50 but that was when I was pushing the Graphite car HARD in 90F weather.
MB no longer recommends 0W40, it is still approved, and if I lived where I did a lot of cold starts below 40F, I might use it.
As to the AUtomatic, as one transmission shop owner told me, "If you change fluid and filter every 50,000 miles, you would put my transmission shop out of business". If you expect the car to die by 200,000 miles, then don't service the fluid in the transmission after the first service (which should be well before 80,000 miles). ALL fluids take on moisture and contamination. Given the age of the car and the fact that most owners never service autos OR manuals, I'd NEVER buy an automatic with more than about 50,000 miles on it. In fact, I NEVER have. Take note: I've driven autos maybe a total of 100,000 miles. I've NEVER had a transmission issue, not once.
I go so far as to change my differential and manual fluid every 50,000 miles / 5-6 years.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Aug 17, 2023 at 03:04 PM.
I use what is local and available that has on the side: "MB229.3 Approval" or "MB229.3 Approved".
I only run 5W40, I have used 5W50 but that was when I was pushing the Graphite car HARD in 90F weather. MB no longer recommends 0W40, it is still approved, and if I lived where I did a lot of cold starts below 40F, I might use it.
This is beyond helpful. I was able to cross reference my brand preferred Castrol and buy at advance auto. I have built up a bunch of speed perk bucks that need to be spent. After this order, I will have even more speed perk bucks. LOL. I will be ordering the transmission stuff next week. One oily mess at a time.
After much research, I settled on buying the transmission stuff from Rock Auto. I got 2 gallons and the filter kit at a very reasonable price. The PENTOSIN is 236.14 approved transmission fluid.
Sadly I could not use any of my speed perks at Advance as they did not have any compliant 236.14 fluid in stock.
The headlights probably have film over the plastic. Just peal that film off and replace with clear film. A kit is available from XPEL.
Sigh, I wished; that would have been the SMART move. The person painted the headlights. To do a proper smoke job, it's a light coating on the inside of the lens. Fortunately (unfortunately) the outside was painted.
I took the bumper off to get better access to the headlights. This car was in a front end collision and was rebuilt. The front with much work.
Closeup of the driver side headlight after much sanding at 400 grit sand sand sand away
Whoever did something to the positive feed to the starter, ran the stupid cable through the electrical box. GAH! shade tree tech work, this is not how we do things
I moved some slack around and got the cable back behind the electrical box so I can actually close it.
Headlight update. Got them mostly recovered. I will need a passenger side headlight as it's really crazed and damaged. For now it works and now I can drive at night safely.
I can see the light!
The lights will need a final touch up and polishing!
Passenger side light after sanding. Passenger light
The driver side light Driver side
Made some progress on getting my back window glued onto the soft top. Rear Window Glue Up
2005 Red Convertible Columbia SC
