Sorry for the long title, not sure how to explain that better. So this is a continuation of this post I made about a week ago. This is for a SRT6 model so it may not apply to the N/A motor.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...e-problem.html

My warranty has taken care of everything and I'm listing all the work so far on the car and the problem still hasn't been solved.

The valve body has been replaced, new connector and seals to fix the leak problem before it shorted the connector, the transmission mount had twisted some and needed to be replaced, they covered the tranny fluid/filter change, it threw also threw a code which was why the valve body was replaced.

So I go to take off and same thing, the shifter is tugging toward neutral, although the clunk when shifting to reverse is gone (so far). The shop manager and I agreed it likely isn't the motor mounts as there's no rattle or clunk associated with a bad motor mount. I'm taking it back into the shop tomorrow and the rear end is getting checked out on a roller rack to simulate the problem.

 

I could be wrong here, but I thought there was no cable, all electronic shifter here. If no cable, how could this be related to the trans, mounts, etc? James

 

Our Crossies have a split shaft. Check the carrier bearing and it's mounts. That said, I would be caucious about the assumption that it is NOT the motor mounts.


Klunk or no Klunk.
This is a classic symptom of that failure.

 

After looking thru the service manual, there is a shift rod. So you could have some problems going on.

Personally I would chock the wheels, put on the parking brake, have someone hold the brake and torque the motor slightly in drive while you are looking under the car to see what is going on. It might give you some insight to what is happening.

Possibly the rod is adjusted close enough to work but on the edge of not far enough. Maybe a slight adjustment is needed.

 

The linkage is fine, that was part of the diagnostic on the car. The shifter itself sits in a large housing with the bottom of the shifter connected to the linkage rod which connects to the transmission. They'll be running it on a roller rack tomorrow so they can simulate open road driving while looking for anything moving that shouldn't be. I wont have time today to check but if the rear end doesn't show anything wrong then the only thing it really could be is the motor mounts. It's just been odd all around as there is no noise and the car itself drives perfectly fine (not even slight vibrations).

 

When they're bad, the motor mounts make no noise whatsoever... the engine simply moves a LOT under load.

Nick's motor mounts were completely dry, but the outward appearance was perfect. After changing the mounts, he immediately noticed a huge difference in the vehicle.

 

Please let us know what they find. James

 

From personal experience it is most likely the engine motor mounts. Easy check....... Put the hood up, get in the SRT. start her up with your foot on the brake, put her in drive (keep your foot on the brake) accelerate in a stopped position and don't freak out when the engine lifts up several inches.

 

I'm going to heavily suggest they check the motor mounts out in the morning before messing with the rear end. I'm not sure what the mounts on the SRT do when they go bad, on other vehicles I've owned it always came with a clunk and rattle (as the bushing goes bad first).

Having a bit of time and a nice warranty under my belt I tested it out some tonight. The problem occurs in first gear at pretty much any throttle amount, the amount of throttle relates to how far it pulls the shifter towards neutral. At full throttle it's so far up I can't upshift into second and have to let off or wind it out so the computer shifts it. In second the same thing only not as severe and by the time I redline it's pretty much stable. In third it doesn't do it at all with the exception of what feels like a 'hiccup', the shifter bumps towards neutral at around 3000 or so RPM then stabilizes. In fourth and fifth it does nothing and acts fine at any throttle amount. I tested from a stop up to around 80mph.

 

Motor Mounts, becareful. You can tearup a lot of stuff. Don't be redlining or even close. Get it in for the warranty replacement you mentioned, now!!!!

 

DTinker is spot on. Motor mounts.

Get in under that warranty.

 

Driver's side motor mount it is which in turn twisted my transmission mount (which has been replaced). Passenger side looked fine, doesn't mean there isn't stress fractures but it isn't leaking or broken so it cant be covered. The part will be in Monday. Thanks all for the help.

 

Can you key me know the cost of fixing this problem. I'm going through the same thing.

 

I think Aamco charged my warranty about $300 or so for the labor+part on the motor mount.