Do it as explained by the Pizzaguy but do not unplug it first.
Once it is out and the bolt removed you will find it easier to unclip the catch on the socket. Do it when the car is cooler, it is more pleasant without the risk of a burn.

 

I tried the CrankshaftPS because all the trouble shooting guides related the same symtoms . I had Two that were Bosch and one from Advance Auto. All did about the same thing. I checked voltage at the injectors and coil packs , all at 12.65VDC. Also decided to replace fuel filter as itv has been on a long time, but that was not the problem either. I also pulled the RMS and resoldered the three wires that did have cold solder joints. I thought they could be bridged on the back side ,so I desoldered and resolder again.
Still just cranks, but will not start. Sure would appreciate any help from the Houston area or a desent shop in Houston that will work on it,
I called several Chrylser and MB dealers to see if they would attempt a fix, but none would try it on for size.
Any ideas!!!! Don't have a code reader, so that is where I am.

Dtinker

 

Dave, need to know :
1. does it have spark ?
2. what is the measured pressure at the fuel rail test point ?
You said you don't have a code reader, they can be really inexpensive, like $12-$25. Is the CEL on ?
Also, could be a bad relay or contacts in the RCM, send it to tighed1 and have him give it the overhaul for $30.

 

Hi all,

I didn't have the opportunity to fully test drive my Xfire after having changed my CPS. My symptoms were the idle upping to 2200 rpm one in a while (at low speed or still) and then coming back to what I think is the regular idle rpm (around 600).

I've tested it today and it's more smooth, but twice it revs to 2000 but I think this was coming from my right foot ;-)

I'll change the other CPS (Camshaft) when I think problem is solved.

Thanks all for you advices, I'm very amazed how people in this awesome forum are helping each other. It's a real community of Xfire lovers !

 

I have the same CPScrank Bosch 170 and 171 plus the Advance auto parts. I tried to measure pressure at fuel rail but didn't work other than spraying gas everywhere. I'm going to try to see if it has spark later today. I could only get the number (i) cyl. wire loose from the plug. I have an old SUN timing light that I am going to try.
Does anyone know a mechanic in Houston that is good?

 

Test drive this morning, and even if it seems less frequent, same issue: idle reving erratically from around 500rpm up to 2200rpm, at low speed (neutral), but not always.
Changing the CPS seems to have solved a little the issue.

Next step: change the Camshaft PS.

Air filters already changed less than 50 miles.

Next? MAF sensor to clean up?

 

SO, OK now both CPSs are changed, and after a test drive of roughly 20 miles, no more surging idle

 

I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to add a note. I just finished replacing my CSPS. I was able to get the clip off without breaking anything, and get the screw out, but it was a T6 not T8. A trick I used to get it back in without dropping it, was to use a piece of electrical tape around the outside of the T6 socket and the edge of the screw. Once I got it screwed in a few turns, I just pulled the extension bar straight out, removed the tape and then went back in to tighten. Thanks again to all the great knowledge on this site. FP if your still around, your skateboard is still running like a champ. I've added KW adjustable shocks, new tires, and a new radio, speakers and amp with a backup camera, and double din screen, but other than that, still like you had it setup. Still love it. And it looks great next to my Saturn Sky Redline. : )

 

At 143,800 Kilometer last week my 2005 N/A XF had is first no start condition that only CPS sensor normaly give and sometime camshaft sensor also . . . the starter motor was engaging and turning the engine but, the engine was not starting .After the motor cool down for a while, it started and I was able to drive the 130 kilometer whithout problem on the way to get home.

Yesterday my OBD II took out the DTC P0335. Cleared the code . . . car engine started fine right after . Since I carry a spare CPS and it was a fine day to work in my garage, took the CPS out and followed the 2005 shop manual procedure . . . section 9 page 397 to 403 . Since voltage at the connector on circuit 1 and 2 was below the maximum recomended voltage and that the tone wheel pulse ring checked OK , at # 13 it say " change the CPS " it then brings you to the last page at the #14 where it say " The condition that caused this DTC to set is currently not present. Inspect the related wiring harness for a possible intermittent condition " . . . what about the CPS diagnostic ?

In my youg time I was a car mecanic and définitively was not a part changer. So i connected an OMH meter to the CPS and took a hair dryer and heated the old CPS and the circuit opened . . . cooled it and the circuit came back. Was able many time to reproduce the condition where this CPS would have cause a no start condition or a stall in the trafic when engine get hot egnough . Ran the same test on my spare CPS but did not get an open circuit.

Installed my spare one bought from them in 2016 Bosch 0031532828, 4440 Crankshaft Position Sensor; Rear; EZL Sender at Rear of Engine - Dodge, Mercedes | 0031532728 0261210170 05080352AA BSH076114 (autohausaz.com) This sensor is not identified as a Bosch but the thickness of the terminal are the same and it is mark " Made in Germany ".Their is no numbers on it. Just to be confident that i received a good spare, road tested it for two weeks in 2016 .

Now . . . How many place are selling marqued made in Germany but unmarked Bosch and no numbers at all on the CPS ? How many have subsequent problems following the installation of these CPS ?

The defective OEM original that my 2005 XF had on it is identified with the brand name Bosch, is marked has " Made in Germany " and have two series of numbers 0261210171 / 031532728 .

Where these numbers replaced by 0261210170 / 0031532828 ?

Daniel

 

As I recall there was a reduction of Mercedes CPS parts that were interchangeable. This initiated a reduction in the Bosch parts to match. Hence some part numbers became obsolete although some old parts remained on shelves until they were sold. The newer part numbers were then the only ones being sold. All this happened some ten years ago I think.
If you are the original owner then you can say you have quoted the initial CPS part number, if not it could have been changed before. The Mercedes part # is 026 121 01 71, I doubt #026 121 01 70 was the later part. The “71” part replaced the “70” part, the “01” was the first edition of the part, if it had been modified it would have become “02”.
The Mercedes numbering system is complicated.

 

Thanks for the answer onehundred80 . . . those informations are good to know. I am the second owner, the car had 63,000 kilometer when I bought it in November 2012. the previus owner,a Lady,bought and had the car serviced all the time, at the same dealer in a small town near by. The service manager and I followed the car mecanic course at the same school and he let me have the complete pedegre of the car . This car had an very pleasant life with her according to the record maintenance. So it was the original CPS according to the same record.

According to my research the current numbers for the CPS is . . . MB part number is 003 153 28 28 while the Bosch number is 026 121 01 70. I could be wrong and I will double check on those numbers on the OEM original that my 2005 XF had on it and have two series of numbers 026 121 01 71 / 003 153 27 28

Know I need to do is to buy a real bosch CPS sensor and not an CPS sensor in a stupid rebadged plastic bag like the one I have received from the link i left in my previous post. 22 kilometer from my place, but on the other side of the US border, in Enosburg fall ,VT. , there is an NAPA store and also an O'Reilly store where i could get the real one Crankshaft Position Sensors | Bosch Auto Part all I have to do is wait until the border reopen .

Daniel

 

Just went and verified the defective OEM original Bosch # from my 2005 . . . on one side of it " Mecedes Benz A 003 153 27 28 " on the other side " Bosch 0 261 210 171 Made in Germany "

Can anyone, Please post the marking of both side of a new genuine Bosch CPS recently aquired ?

Daniel

 

Received today a new Bosch Crank Sensor from FCP . . . in a bosch box ( not a rebaged bag ) clearly identified has made in Germany an with the # 0 261 210 170 on the label .

On the left side of the sensor " 20W 46 " only. On the right side " BOSCH 0 261 210 170 Made in Germany "

Daniel

 

Here are pics of the Bosch I received ordered through Amazon about a month ago... I've no idea what the __ 20__ on the other side means. Perhaps a factory run # that changes with each batch they run?

 

Does anyone have a picture of the MB one now I’m wondering if I did not get an authentic MB one.

 

This is what my MB version looks like. I removed it from my 2005 in 2018 and replaced it with the Bosch version shown in the photos in Post #334.
Sorry the photos aren't sharper.
The number on the side is "A 003 153 28 28" and "11 T280". Nothing on the other side except the MB symbol and "Made in Germany".
My Bosch version has the same numbers on the box in Post #334 but has "Bosch 0 261 210 170 Made in Germany" on one side and "18W3" on the other side.
I bought two of the Bosch version in 2018 so I would have a new one in the car and a spare one handy. The replacement has worked perfectly well since 2018.

 

The MB one I got off of eBay has none of that! Now we know what we are looking for!



Came in this package.

 

With a total of over 330 posts we do not know what we are looking for?
Where’s Waldo?

 

I wrote the seller and they stated it was manufactured by the Siemens company for Mercedes. Anyone heard of this before?

 

Well someone has to make them, Mercedes assembles cars others supply the parts for assembly.