Hi,
I just traded my 99 jeep wrangler for a 2004 crossfire this past weekend and I absolutely love this car. Needs some work but in a couple of months this car is going to be even better. One of the things that needs working on is the cruise control. When i first received the car it worked fine, but two days ago it stopped working. It seems like it wants to set at the speed I set it at but then turns off. I also noticed that it doesn't seem to have any responsiveness after 40 MPH. I've searched this forum and found a post from two years ago with a guy with a similar problem but no solution. so now 2 years later, does anyone have any solution to this problem?

 

One of the first things folks on this forum are going to ask you is if the battery is original. If it is, replace it. Things start going wonky with Crossfires with tired batteries.

 

true, first thing i noticed when inspecting the car was that the battery has some acid build up around the terminals. i was planning on changing it anyway because this is on my to do list with the crossfire, and if i can kill two birds with one stone that would be awesome!! any battery recommendations?

 

Okay, so I had my battery checked at local auto store and my battery is fine. Any other ideas?

 

Not sure but worth a look see. How are your breaks? Speed control sensors, at least in previous cars, can be affected if the breaks are worn. I've never done research on my Xfire Cruise system before but I know in some vehicles the cruize can be affected by this.

Also, don't assume your battery is OK just because it checks out. Lot's on here about people who have don that and under load, it doesn't check out so well.

Good luck. I love the cruise on my car. It holds speed very well, even on grades and it sure helps to keep me from going too fast

 

The recommendation was to change the battery if it is the original. These cars are very voltage sensitive.

 

This is a tricky item and relies on various inputs to do its job.
From the Shop Manual,

Control of the speed control system is accomplished by a
speed control switch (1) which is located just above the multifunction
switch (2). The speed control system also uses other
components of the vehicle to accomplish its tasks. The five
other major components used are as follows; The PCM, Accelerator
Pedal Position Sensor, Kickdown Simulator Switch,
Throttle Body and the Clutch Pedal Position Switch (Manual
Transmission). The speed control system is designed to operate

at speeds above 25 m.p.h. (40 km/h).
Any fault in one of these and there is trouble. Read the manual and see if you can do any of the tests.
I would look at the brake switch and the clutch pedal switch if you have a manual tranny first.
If your brake lights are on all the time you have your answer.

 

Good advice...I checked the brakes they are fine. It was the wheels and tires. They were not in the best of shape, unfortunately the previous owner didn't believe in putting good tires on his car. ( all four tires were a different tread -_-) anyways got my new set of wheels and tires today and now the cruise is working again!!!! Is it possible to reset the tpms or do I need to take it to a dealer? Thanks for the help I really like this forum...

 

Glad you got it figured out.

This forum is great. I've learned so much about our cars on this forum over the past year plus. The members are active, in tune with the cars, willing to share experiences and even willing to help out personally with repairs, checking out cars etc.

You'll learn a ton on here, even if you just peruse the daily postings. I read things regularly so if I ever have issues, I may be able to at minumum diagnos the issues, even if I can't repair it myself.

Enjoy the ride.

 

The TPMS sending units are in the valve stems and each have their own battery. When you got the new tires and wheels, if they changed the original valve stems out, you no longer have sensors and the light will not go off. If they kept the original valve stems, the battery,s are probably bad. Do a search on this site for TPMS and you will get all kinds of valuable info.

 

thanks...its because when i took it to discount tires, they told me 3 of the tpms were bad and they replaced them, but the light in the dash is still on.

 

They should have replaced all four as the one you did not have replaced will go soon I imagine, maybe it has gone and that is why the light is on.
You should ask them if they set them, I cannot see why they let it leave the shop with a light on, go back and get it corrected.

 

I need to go back for a checkup sometime this week, I'll speak to them about it when im there. which reminds me...I have one good rim from the stock set, the others are cracked and welded. also have two decent tires from the stock set, and four hub caps. how would you go about selling these to try and make the most money out of it???

 

Those in the know.. would this be most likely from different heights of the tires and too far a spread between the wheel speed sensors readings? Just a curious thought.

 

I believe that there is mention of this happening on another thread and the odd tires were the reason.

 

I know this is an old thread but just wanted to share my experience just so it might help somebody in the future. I went on a trip to the beach six hours from home this week. Car did great on the way down, drove around Panama City, FL all week and it did great there too. Today, I left for home. Drove one hundred or so miles. Everything is going good. Come to a small town on the way back to GA and stop for gas. Get back in, pull out onto the road, and go to set the cruise... nothing happens. WTF?!?! Look at my dash panel and sure enough the BAS ESP light is on. Next town is only ten miles away so I say the heck with it. We'll try and reset it with the steering wheel method. Also searched on here during that time. Saw tire pressure could be a cause. Stop in the next town to check tires... 36 psi in all four. Tried the steering wheel method before I pull out of the lot... no good she's still on. Go on down the road, do some more searching on here... oh geez, it's gonna be some sort of sensor. Those are so much fun foot starts getting tired, the little bit of gas I topped off with has burned up due to my bipolar lead foot not staying steady. Decide to pull over and try the steering wheel method again. Once with the engine running... nothing happens. Decide to turn it off and try it. BOOYAH!! No light on this car is just like a woman. As soon as you think you have it figured... she throws a curveball to keep you on your toes. But the enjoyment makes it all worth it. Happy Friday guys

 

What is the steering wheel method? I am having the same problem. Thanks

 

Per the owner's manual: page 88 Synchronizing ESP?
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/Run position.
2. Rotate the steering wheel to the center position.
3. Rotate the steering wheel completely to the left, and then rotate the steering wheel completely to the right.
4. Bring the steering back to the center position.
5. The BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light will go out.
If it doesn't, then service is needed.
__________________

 

The steering wheel method he is referring to, is to reset the BAS/ESP lights on the dash. Turn the wheel completely to right, then completely the left then, back to the centered position. This will reset the light if there are no other pending problems.

 

Lock to lock with no power steering, sounds a bit strange to me.
I have had that light on once when I disconnected the battery, I backed down the driveway and the light went, never seen that since except at start up.