Last month or so I bought a Crossfire SRT6 with 1900 miles (https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...y-someone.html) . I took it out for a drive each of the first 4 Sundays I owned it, the 5th Sunday it refused to start.

I've read through every "no start" tread I could find. This is what is happening and what I've done.

Car turns over once and then quits. Any further attempt to turn the key and the car does not turn over. However all the idiot lights and radio work.

Battery has been replaced. The RCM has been removed and all the points resoldered.

I think this is a key clue: Anytime the battery is disconnected and reconnected the car will turn over once and then quit. Before you try to start the car the horn and dome light work. After you try to start (car turns over once and quits) the horn no longer works and neither does the dome light. I was told that the dome light, horn and security are on the same fuse and the fuses have been checked and are fine.

All the threads I've read point to the SKREEM however a couple of them have mentioned their problem was resolved by the dealer replacing the "door lock module part number 5099541AA".

It looks a lot cheaper to replace that than to replace the SKREEM.

Are there any references I can use to figure out where it is and how to replace the door lock module? Looking online it appears to run a bit more than $100 so that's a lot cheaper than replacing the SKREEM.

Any other thoughts besides "take it to the dealer and have him replace the SKREEM"?

And is anyone here in the Long Island NY area that has a good Chrystler dealer that has expertise in Crossfires?

Thanks

 

Also both keys have been tried with the same results.

 

Does the car have the original battery? You might want to check the voltage output if its low it could be the problem. Plus there could be corrosion on a connection somewhere from not being driven much for almost 9 years.

 

Yes, the battery was replaced. The battery cables were inspected and appear to be corrosion free. And as far as I understand the car was stored in a climate controlled garage.

 

Get the fault codes read or else you are going to chase the problem all over town and the bills will pile up.

 

Is there a way to get the codes read without bringing it to a dealer? I have an OBDII reader but I don't think that is what you are talking about.

 

You need a DRBIII to read the codes for the skreem.

 

Just a heads up, I recently encountered all of the same symptoms you had and it turned out to be the SKREEM module. Install + SKREEM module came out to be around 420 bucks. According to the dealership, the SKREEM modules are core priced and are basically refurbished to keep up with demand and therefore are a bit cheaper than the new cost which is posted in several threads. - Goodluck!

 

Thanks for info. Probably skreem

 

Only place that causes me to hesitate on this "agreed" is the fact you only are getting 1 start attempt.. which is not typical.

 

Thanks mrmiata. To clarify the car turned over 2 times maybe even 3 with immediate stall the nothing but click after resetting battery. I haven't replaced the cps just to rule out otherwise not sure what to do next destined for dealer or Mercedes mechanic who knows crossfires. Not daily driver so no rush but just purchased car and feel snake bitten. My daily driver is ford focus st so holding me over for now. Any suggestions or ideas appreciated. I'm trying to use forum properly being a newbie. My nephew who is a mechanic traced the horn dome light and skreem link. I don't know if it is relevant

 

The horn is powered by Fuse 6 on the Relay control module (feeds the power to the relay contacts) and Fuse 4 of the Engine fuse block (feeds power to the horn ring/coil via the ignition switch.

Dome light is fed by fuse 9 of the underhood accessory fuse block which is fed from the above fuse 4.

THis "fuse 4" is a 200 amp fuse and is located in the little black box near the battery.

The fast that the horn and dome light quit working is a clue - and I can't see where the SKREEM has anything to do with this.

You better get someone to grab a voltmeter and see where the power is going when the dome and horn quit - fix THAT and you will have a running car again.

Open that damn little box and look for loose *anything*.
Also, "splice block 100" is suspect here, too. But I can't remember where the hell it is. I THINK it's in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side.

 

Like I was saying...


See pages 8W-10-9 to 8W-10-23 of the service manual and you can see the path the horn and dome light current takes from the battery to the horn and light. You have GOT to find out why this power is failing.

 

Reading just this.. tells me look a little further before going after a skreem solution. This is telling me low voltage somewhere in the line. "If" after resetting it's another 2 maybe three attempts of run and die then yes we're at typical skreem syndrome. Are you POSITIVE the battery is more than just "good"?

 

New battery no voltmeter used to check cable only visual inspection by mechanic nephew who thought cable lines in great shape and properly grounded. He couldn't believe the mint condition of the car. I agree we need to rule out low voltage issue. I will retest car and make sure dome light is being affected. This was reported by nephew not in my presence. Thanks so much and I will update over weekend once I perform testing. I will check voltage with voltmeter and look for any loose connections and get back.

 

I may be totally left field here... but impossible for bad cell on that battery? Just have to wonder how it reads under a load test..