Hi All,

I'm replacing my alternator. Thanks to the great info here, I was able to remove everything, including the two bolts holding the alternator in. I've also been able to pull it towards the fender (it's fully dislodged), but there just does not seem to be enough space to get to the wires I understand are behind it (a bolt too??), nor pull it out. Am I missing a trick or something? I've read where folks are getting these things out in a hour or so tops. I've spent that much just trying to pull it up and out. Please help if you can.

Thanks!

 

It will come out...it's a matter of turning and twisting it just to the right spot..I've taken mine out twice...granted it's a job to find the right position.. I really can't remember or what the angle is...but it will come out...Carl

 

Hold your mouth right along with the right combination of certain words

 

Make darn sure you have the negative battery cable disconnected !!!!!!

 

Good catch. LOL

 

Hi All,

Before I go into brief detail of my experience, I want really thank all for the feedback and encouragement, thank the members who through experience, continue to share, and thank the owners/group who created and continue to manage this site, keeping it fresh, valuable and alive. I imagine I have saved THOUSANDS of dollars by coming here first, then doing it myself. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

I was able to finally get the old alternator out and the new one in. Wound up taking a few casual hours, mostly spent on the positioning necessary to get it out, get it back in, feel my way for connecting the black cable/bolt to the back of the alternator, and finally, getting the serpentine belt back on.

Re: getting it out, I thought it was supposed to come straight up (over the passenger side fender), when in fact, it needs to come forward (towards the radiator). Also found that you must find and disconnect the black cable from the back of the alternator before attempting to pull it forward to get it out (did find that instruction on this site today, after the fact, lol. Should have done my homework in full prior to).

Re: the serpentine belt, could have used a 3rd hand, lol. I found a diagram which was life saving. Also, in starting, I found it useful to attach the the belt to the alternator pulley using small vise grips to hold it in place while I threaded (gentle pressure).

I used a DB Electrical ABO0224 alternator purchased on Amazon. Got it for $108.50. Pulley lines up fine, has the same number of grooves. One area of concern was a small , square cap it has which covers what appears to be a soldered contention. It popped off during installation and just would not stay on. It was not present on the original (Valeo). Moved on anyway. Hope it does not cause an issue in the future.

Once I jump started and ran it (2004 Crossfire -- not an SRT), it ran fine. Did notice an electrical smell for a short while, then again today as I ran it for about 60 miles. Will see what's up with that and provide any updates.

Overall, I'm pleased, thankful I was able to get this done, and appreciative for the Crossfire Forum. Have had this car since 2009. It has sat for several month stretches un-driven a few times and I've almost sold it more than once (after bumping into what seemed to be potentially super expensive, insurmountable issues). Can't seem to do it though. I'm totally mesmerized and magnetized. It's my iron-horse love affair that the Crossfire Forum helps to keep alive. Hi Ho Silver!!!

Thank you all again!

 

In the future on the serpentine belt, 2 ways to do it :

1. using a pull handle and 17 mm socket, relieve the tension and place a suitable sized hex wrench in the hole of the tensioner, then release the pressure.
( the hole is at about 4 oclock when viewed from the front )
It will stay in place and you can easily take off and replace the belt. Reverse to remove the pin when new belt in place.

2. Without using a pin, just relieve the pressure and remove the belt.
When putting back on, place it around all the pulleys except the idler above the alternator, then use the wrench to tension the tensioner pulley and pop the belt over that last idler.
This is the way I have always done it.

If you are doing something in the front engine area, it helps to remove the radiator fan.
Easy to do, remove the two top clips, unplug the plug then wiggle it up and out past all the radiator hoses.

 

I can only add the fact that the pin used to hold the tensioner in the locked out position should be the largest pin that goes in the hole - 6mm I believe. Too small and the pin may be forced out by the spring pressure or by it getting knocked accidentally. Whatever you do not get your fingers in the position that they could get trapped by the belt if the locking method failed.

 

^^^ I heard that !
That's why I prefer the non-pin method.

 

Me too on the Non-Pin method.

My first alternator change drove me nuts, the new Valeo was not quite the same in back - 3 hours or so to get it changed.
THEN the replacement failed in about six weeks. NAPA sent me a free one, it was configured like the original - in and out in 40 minutes.

 

Pin method? My alternator experience was eased by search, search and more search. No comfortable way to get one in and out exists. I lost lots of skin in the process.

Les

 

The pin method is where you put a pin in a hole behind the slot, the pin will then hit the end of the slot when the tensioner is near the max tension position. It is shown in the Servuce Manual.

 

Would be awesome to have a video or picture step by step guide. 😀

 

 

If you can hit the rear of the alternator with a rubber mallet you can move the two dowels that act as clamps that push the alternator to the rear against the rear location face. Then you do not have to pry it out using a crowbar. The bolts push against these dowels and they become really tight against the alternator.