All lights comes on
Ram ... Yes
Cops... No
Automatic

 

All lights comes on
Rcm... Yes
Cps... No

 

With an automatic, there is also the 'pulse module' involved.
It is located inside the under hood fuse box and serves to initiate the starter when commanded.
It serves two purposes :
1. stops turning the starter when the PTCM tells it the engine is running ( if you continue to hold the key in start position )
2. stops turning the starter after about 10-15 seconds if the engine does not start.

There was a forum member back early this year who found that one of the harness wires from the PTCM to the pulse module was intermittent. He was experiencing the same symptoms as you.

 

This sounds like Skreem problem. I had the classic Skreem symptoms. 3 tries to start then nothing. Tried spare battery, no luck, then tried spare (RCM), no luck, tried spare CPS, no luck. Each time tried to start, nothing.

I changed out the Skreem myself. $200 Fix myself. Most of removing the Skreem are the sticky fix procedures removing lower panels. Gives access to screws to remove instrument panel screws. Did not remove steering wheel. Took out instrument cluster. Skreem right behind it. Unplugged it and removed it. Called SOS in California, they said they just replace them. No reprogramming them. Quoted $395 for Skreem. I called my local dealer, quoted me $200 for Skreem. Asked for my vin number, and car mileage. Ordered it, came back in 3 days. Package wrap said came from MB in Texas for Chrysler. I plugged it in. Put back the instrument panel and lower panels. Turned the key with battery disconnected to drain capacitors. Then connected battery, turned key to on position for several minutes, sounded like things were reprogramming themselves, then turned key off for one minute. Them started car as normal. Fired right up on first try. Drives great again. Total work time to do it, maybe an hour and 10 minutes. And the 3 day wait for the new Skreem to arrive. No core required for old Skreem, no fore charge. Just $200 part plus tax. Done deal. Hope this helps.

 

It does. You packed a LOT of information in that post.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obdof3

Turned the key with battery disconnected to drain capacitors. Then connected battery, turned key to on position for several minutes, sounded like things were reprogramming themselves, then turned key off for one minute. Them started car as normal.

These instructions were followed by a member here some years back when he had SKREEM trouble.
He did not replace the SKREEM but followed these instructions which seemed to reprogram his SKREEM. His car started with no problems.

I think that it may work to solve many problems with the SKREEM which may get confused somehow and just need restarting from scratch, just like when you reboot your computer when it has a problem.

 

Just a thought.. memory serves.. 1 guys car was down for about 2 years.. "it was a fuse".. did not say what fuse or where.. few months back on the FB page.. we had run through everything.. no luck.. caught up with the member later down the road in a thread.. did you get your car going.. Oh yeah.. it was the coil pack fuse.. anybody know where this is located?

 

Fuse 11 :

 

Thank you.. will burn that into the memory banks..

It was late and time to call it a night.. research was not at the top of the list..

 

I find too much liquor blurs everything as well.

 

I have soilder the three pin back and i still have no start .. no crank. It has been 8 months that the car has not ran.. Dont know what to do now.

 

lay the Rcm on top the box there without the case.. turn key and see if relays 3 and 4 close..

 

If not .. manually close them and attempt to start the car..