Hi all I have a problem that I am trying to fix with my mother's '05 Crossfire convertible and have had no luck. I have read all related threads on this forum and others and nothing suggested thus far will help my situation. I would like to fix it for her by Christmas so she can drive without constant beeping this winter. I will try to explain the problem as simply as I can and the things I've tested so far. The car has only 50k miles, been garage kept, and got a new battery last year. It gets driven regularly even with low miles (less than 1 mile commute to work). Top hydraulic fluid is full and there are no warning lights. I'm an avid backyard mechanic type and maintain my family's cars and can usually solve every problems I run in to but this one is stumping me.

The top functions fine, it goes up and down and the automatic latches all work correctly. When the top is down the car is 100% fine. There are no beeps and the trunk opens.

When the top is up and locked, there is a constant beep above 8mph and the trunk will not open. The light in the convertible top switch blinks constantly.

When the top is up, but the D-ring is unlatched and the forward 1/3rd is still open there is no beep when driving above 8mph and the trunk will open.

All 3 switches function and I've been doing some tests by triggering them manually. From what I can tell all the hardware functions 100%, but the computer needs to re-learn the top-up position for the switches. I can press both the switch above the passenger seat and the switch in the windshield frame as well as in the trunk divider and manually trigger the beeping so I know all 3 switches are working. My mom said she thinks she didn't finish a full top up/down cycle (hold button until it beeps) and that's when the problems started, however I cannot find any way to reset the system. The dealers are all hopeless and some even refuse to pull the car into the repair bay.

Another thing is that the rear spoiler will not extend when pressing the spoiler button, it will only extend when driving at 62mph. After some reading both the convertible top and the spoiler are controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) so I have my sights set on that. Does anyone know how to reset the BCM or teach it the top switch positions so that my mother can drive without a constant beeping this winter? I have tried leaving the battery disconnected for over an hour with no changes. I tried to pull DTCs but I didn't have any come through, no check engine light either.

Thank you for any help you can provide!

 

It sounds like a similar problem to the one I am having . I just recently purchased my 2005 Crossfire Roadster , and oh boy have I found some issues . One of which I spent a ton of time researching , Something I would try is pulling the CPU re-soldering the joints and putting it back in this worked for me; temporarily . (But I think it may be because the CPU reset) .

Something else I would try is ; and I know it sounds cringe but hitting a bump with some speed, if your windows roll down , then the problem is for sure the same problem I am having ; the Head-bar convertible top sensor . The sensor is is what triggers the windows to move up and down when the top goes down . Apparently it isn't unheard of , and these sensors go out with some frequency .

My current problem is finding this part , I cannot find a place to purchase this sensor anywhere ! So If my help, helps you. Maybe you can link me to the Top Headbar Sensor .

Hope I could help a little , and I hope you solve the problem that you're having with your vehicle !

 

Your issue definitely sounds switch related. IMO the switch works fine, but you should adjust the latch so that it pushes on the switch with more authority. With age that latch can come out of tolerance and then the switch is contacted intermittently. In my experience with electronics if the switch works, it works, and they rarely go bad.

The first step of the top down procedure is to unlock the D-ring latch and that triggers the windows to roll down, which is caused by that switch releasing contact when you pop open the roof.

Good luck! The passenger side latch looks relatively easy to adjust.

 

You need to contact Klaus Witte at top hydraulics.

 

Thanks but what is he going to tell me? From what I can tell there is nothing wrong with the hydraulics.

 

I don't have a drop top, but I believe there is a procedure to "resync." the top. Maybe if one of our members catch this post or Klaus can help tell you how. Use the advanced search option, that might get cha there..

 

To re sync the top:

• Start engine
• MANUALLY put the top down, including locking the hex bolt
• MANUALLY put the top up
• Repeat bullets 2 and 3 once or twice more

In the cases where mine has become confused, that did it.

Now, since the trunk won't open with the top up, we know that the cycle is not completing (well, we know that the TCM does not THINK the cycle is completing, and due to that, it is not unlocking the trunk. If the re sync does not work, I'd suspect the electric trunk lock actuator or some other item not doing it's job. I'd have to think it over a bit....

Use this EXACT procedure to manually operate the top.

DO NOT neglect to use the Hex Key on the bolt in the trunk. Since your trunk will only open with the top down, start your manual operations with the top DOWN:

• Start engine
• MANUALLY put the top up, including locking the hex bolt
• MANUALLY put the top down
• Repeat bullets 2 and 3 once or twice more

Let us know how it goes. And yes, I know I tell you in the video to just turn the key on, trust me, to re sync the top, have the engine running the whole time.
At this time, I cant tell you why the wing wont' move automatically, but I suspect the TCM is telling the BCM to not move the wing for some reason having to do with the sync error, if we do indeed have a sync error.
For the time being, let's try to make the top work right and see what the wing does after that.

 

Thank you for the procedure. I had seen that video and have the tool but didn't realize that doing a cycle or two manually will re-learn the computer. I will be doing this asap!

 

In most cases, a chime/beep while driving with the top up and locked means that the controller reads the rear bow being unlocked. There are cases where the rear bow lock has developed enough play that it will show "locked" at first, but the striker gets pulled up enough to make the micro switch signal "unlocked" once the canvas has been pulled tight enough when latching the top in the front.

Note that the micro switch on the rear bow lock is electrically 'normally closed', and this is the reading the controller needs for a closed lock. This means, the metal lever that pushes the micro switch pushes down on the micro switch when the rear bow lock is open and it produces an open circuit. When the lever releases the micro switch enough, the switch will be electrically closed again. This happens before the lever actually fully releases the micro switch. Typically, the lever just about touches the micro switch when the lock is closed, but it does not push down far enough to trigger the switch into the electrically open position. When there is extra play in the rear bow lock, and you just locked the top in the front, then the lever can be pushed down far enough to trigger the switch again.

Unlock the front and open the trunk. Then lock the front and observe the lever on the micro switch of the rear bow lock. If you push up on the lever just a little (such as to move it away from the switch), do you hear the switch clicking? If so, then you found the culprit. If so, then bend up the lever a little bit - not more than a millimeter (or 1/32").

Klaus

 

Thank you Klaus for your expertise, now maybe the Op will understand why I advised him to contact you at top hydraulics. 😉👍

 

Great info. Thanks Klaus.

 

Thanks Klaus for the tips. However, I can manually depress both the switch in the windshield frame and the switch above the passenger seat and activate the chime without putting any tension on the top or rear bow. I will definitely give that a look though, I haven't had a chance to look at the car since the last time I posted.

 

Looking forward to reading what you find out, especially with respect to reset procedure.
Interesting that you can activate the chime by pushing those two switches. I don't own an XF, so I cannot verify, but would have thought that you would clearly get a warning if you drove with the top unlatched in the front.

The issue I described about the rear bow lock micro switch getting 'untriggered' once the canvas is pulled tight, will come up again in this forum in a few years. It took about 15 years to be an issue with Mercedes R129 SL-Class roadsters, which use similar locks above the windshield. Here is a thread on BenzWorld that tackles the issue: Soft top closed switches? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Klaus

 

I have put the top up and down about 100 times manually with the special tool and with the engine running and also with the engine off but key in run position - No change.
This is the entire point of this thread. It's not "interesting" to me
Lol!!! I do get the "Warning!" it's the constant beeping while I'm trying to drive! When the top latched completely = car thinks it's open. When it's unlatched = car thinks it's closed, no beep, all happy. Car is wrong!


No change. Switch was not affected by rear bow, maintained it's position.

 

I bought a replacement top control computer, however since the last time I posted now the top will not move at all and since it doesn't think it's closed all the way guess what...trunk won't open. Can't open trunk, can't replace module.

I can't believe what a POS this car is. 46k miles and it's bricked.

 

Use the procedure of going up through the POS driver side tag light hole with a POS hook end coat hanger.
There's pics somewhere on this POS forum.

 

You can actually drive around all day with the top unlatched and no "chimes".. just keep her under 10MPH..

 

See the attachment for the POS info.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try on this POS car sometime this week.

 

I can confirm that this guide did not help in any way. My trunk is still locked. The "spigot" as described in that diagram is engaged, but the trunk will not open. There is resistance on the handle. I can pull the "spigot" out or push it in, but I cannot open the trunk.

Confirmed POS.