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Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & ModificationsHave technical or modification questions about the Crossfire?
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I have done some searching and reading and have a rough understanding of how it works. Is there a comprehensive one stop description of the mechanism logic and interlocks? My father in law just passed and I have been charged with getting the car ready for sale and the top is non-functional. Here is where I am currently:
Beeping on startup with top up. After unlocking top with D ring and moving away no window movement until pressing button. Then windows come down and you can hear pump running but no progress with top. Trunk will not open. When you use the remote unlock, you can hear the trunk solenoid activate and the trunk handle cycles between blocked, where it simply wont move and free like it is disconnected - in either event, cant open trunk.
My thought was to manually cycle the top to attempt to resequence. Unfortunately it seems the rear hoop is captured by the center hook and I cant lift it and cant get into trunk to release with 6 mm key.
So I am thinking next step is to attempt trunk access via the license plate light?
Is there a good single description of the top system with all the interlocks?
Other than the top issues, the car runs and drives well and is beautiful.
Thanks in advance for any tips or pointers. I am patient and persistent.
I have done some searching and reading and have a rough understanding of how it works. Not good enough, you need more than that to get thru this.
Is there a comprehensive one stop description of the mechanism logic and interlocks? My father in law just passed and I have been charged with getting the car ready for sale and the top is non-functional. Here is where I am currently:
Beeping on startup with top up. This means the cycle never completed. This is your first clue.
After unlocking top with D ring and moving away no window movement until pressing button. This is clue number two - the switch in the frame of the windshield does not appear to have closed when you turned the D handle, so there was no message sent from the top module to the BCM telling it to lower the windows. So, when you put the top UP, the switch didn't close, therefore, the cycle is not complete.
Then windows come down and you can hear pump running but no progress with top. This is the worst news yet, sounds like low fluid, which means a leaking cylinder - get your checkbook out, cause this won't be cheap to fix. Klaus at Top Hydraulics is your best bet here.
Trunk will not open. When you use the remote unlock, you can hear the trunk solenoid activate and the trunk handle cycles between blocked, where it simply wont move and free like it is disconnected - in either event, cant open trunk. Ok, this gets confusing, there are TWO trunk locks:
Pneumatic lock that operates with the doors/fuel door/console lock system, the "lock" and "unlock" buttons on key fob operate the pump.
An electric lock that locks ONLY for the 24 seconds that the top is moving up or down. This lock is the first thing that activates at the start of a top-up or top-down cycle, and the last thing that happens at the end. If the switch in the frame of teh windshield frame does not work, this lock will never unlock. Sucks to be you at this point, because I have been telling owners to FIX THIS since 2009. We mod teh lock so it tells the TCM that the trunk is locked but it never actually locks - which saves you from this crap. You should do that mod NOW. Let's get back to this, keep reading.
My thought was to manually cycle the top to attempt to resequence. Unfortunately it seems the rear hoop is captured by the center hook and I cant lift it and cant get into trunk to release with 6 mm key.
So I am thinking next step is to attempt trunk access via the license plate light? Well, that's how I do it, but others here have improved on that by taking out the passenger side light and manually moving the cam to open the trunk. I"ve not had a chance to look into that, but it sounds better than my idea.
Is there a good single description of the top system with all the interlocks? No.The best way to learn it is to try to help others every time a problem comes up by playing with your top while trying to help the other person, which is what I've been doing for almost ten years now. YOu need a WORKING system plus the questions someone is asking in order to learn how things work. Doesn't help you, I know, but it's how it is.
Other than the top issues, the car runs and drives well and is beautiful.
Thanks in advance for any tips or pointers. I am patient and persistent.
Your first job is to open the trunk, use my technique of taking out the driver's side light and using a metal coat hanger to snag the emergency release cable OR use the other guy's idea of going in thru the passenger side light.
Once you get that out of the way, we can work on what is really going on with the top's sensor(s) and pump. DO NOT start another thread once you get started, keep everything in this thread as it makes it WAY easier to help you.
You will get thru this, but it will take time - in the end, you will know so much about the top system, you won't want to sell the car.
Directed to no one in particular, but it has to be said from time to time:
This is not helpful - if you don't put your city/town in your 'location', we don't know if you are in Valdosta or Oakwood.
I mention this because you have people near (maybe) you who can help. George comes to mind right away, as does Zach and others.
If you tell us where you are, you may find that someone lives in the next county that can help. I lived in Cumming until last June, in fact.
Thanks for the reply & guidance. Fixed my location. The car is across the state in Richmond Hill though, near Savannah. Not sure if I will bring it back here or just deal with it there.
Beeping on startup with top up. After unlocking top with D ring and moving away no window movement until pressing button. Then windows come down and you can hear pump running but no progress with top. Trunk will not open. When you use the remote unlock, you can hear the trunk solenoid activate and the trunk handle cycles between blocked, where it simply wont move and free like it is disconnected - in either event, cant open trunk.
GP
I did not mean to miss this, I wanted to explain something:
If you try to open the trunk and the button/handle "flops around", it means the pneumatic lock has locked. The pneumatic locks moves a cam out of the way so that the button/latch has nothing to work against to open the trunk.
If you try to open the trunk and the button/handle is "blocked" or "immovable", it is because the electric lock pushes a cam into the path of the button, blocking it's movement.
So in your case, the pneumatic lock is working (locking and unlocking) fine; but the electric lock is locked, because the TCM (Top Control Module) senses that the cycle is not complete - that is, the top is not fully "up" or fully "down", as we have discussed before.
OK - learning is occurring. It would seem the proximity switch in the windshield header may not be signalling the top is closed. Is there a way to trick the sensor or either physically close or open the circuit? Is the sensor readily accessible?
OK - learning is occurring. It would seem the proximity switch in the windshield header may not be signalling the top is closed. Is there a way to trick the sensor or either physically close or open the circuit? Is the sensor readily accessible?
It is not a proximity switch, it is a physically actuated switch.
You can access the wiring for all the top stuff in the SRT6 service manual in the below link.
Top mechanism troubleshooting.
