Dear Members
I have a Crossfire 2003 Coupe.My speedometer is not working,all warning lights on,spoiler up.So far my mechanic has put on new Battery,changed 4 ABS sensors,as the electrical mechanic found faults with them,it worked after that for about two days.Then he thought it was reluctant rings,changed two of them to no avail,it now says no CAN BUS communication with ABS module,and problem not sorted.Anyone here in this Forum had the same problem,I would be very GRATEFUL for some advise,I live in Scotland,and unfortunately we have no Chrysler dealers,or mechanics here😢😢

 

replace your rcm,,, k40 on mercedes read this ,,,all of it either get tighed1 to repair it or get a new one

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...gs-happen.html

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

 

Thank you very much amx1397,I forgot to mention that the Car runs fine,just all lights on and Speedometer not working,do you still think I should get RCM repaired or replaced
Thanks again for quick response!

 

yes ,everyone that owns a crossfire should have a spare with them at all times.

 

2003 ?

 

The first ones that were sold on the other side of the pond were considered 2003's.

 

Hi guys...help please,as I have posted before,I’ve had problems with my car for a while.Today we changed the battery again,and YES...YES...YES,the spoiler went down,all lights were out,took it for a wee run,and everything was fine.Washed the car,and moved it to park up and the spoiler and all lights were on again😡😡,we then disconnected the battery,and vupti spoiler went down,all lights out again,disconnected the earth so my mechanic now thinks it’s to do with earth connections.Any similar problems and suggestions as what to do please😢😢

 

Hope you get it figured out.

 

What pond are you talking about? He lives in Illinois.

 

Country of origin is GB and he's a she!

 

She is and yes,Scotland����

 

I looked at the wrong post for the location. coming from the UK originally I know how their year of registration works.
Open up the RCM and see if there are contacts that are burnt, also look at the three soldered spots known to cause problems.
CLICK for RCM repair and problems.

 

Hey so unfortunately/luckily we have the same issue and I’m very close to figuring it all out.. but it will be quite the goose chase if if my solution ends up working. So if you back probe the 1&11 connections on the c4 while the ignition is in the off position and while the connector is in the ecu check to see if it reads between 50-70ohms .. if so then proceed to back probe 11 on c4 and 16 on the CAB (abs module) if you’re not seeing 5ohms of resistance between those 2 connections then you need to replace/ repair the wire going to each of the terminations. So that would consist of ecu, cab(abs module), gauge cluster and skreem module.

I plan to to replace the wire with one I pulled from a xfire in the junk yard. I’ll document it for anyone else encounters this issue. I’ve been chasing down the route cause of it all.. first starting with the rcm then fuses then abs module and after getting a ship manual and running test at home this is where I’ve landed.

below I’ve attached some screen shots from the manual which covers in more detail what I was referring to.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted I’ll have results within the next week

 

Thank you for posting this,hope it sorts your problem,can’t wait to hear result

 

Yea so do I but you’re welcome. It’s very few of us who’ve actually had this issue so if I can figure it out and help anyone else who encounters this it’d make me feel good.

But the CAN connection (controller area network) is a braided pair of wires, one is green and the other is white, they connect from the ecu>abs/CAB module>skreem>Instrument cluster>Shift lever>TCM>BCM.

I personally think the reason the wires stop working is because of the style wire nuts/crimps they used; they’re made of this strange plastic and it sits directly over the transmission, and in my case the heat of the engine/trans would either make my car work properly or it wouldn’t. So on cold starts it wouldn’t work but once it got up to operating temp it would work

 

Is it a auto or manual ?

 

It’s a manual

 

All of the symptoms mentioned can be caused by a bad traction control relay in the relay control module.
Open the RCM (Video on YouTube) reinstall it, turn the key to the ON position.
2 of the 3 middle relays should stay engaged. If only one, you found the problem.

If only 1, turn off car. Manually close the failed relay (toothpick works).
Start car. You should be able to lower the wing. Other faults will clear after running for a bit.

Email me for RCM repair info if needed.

tighed1@hotmail.com

 

Hi Tighed1
So we did exactly what you suggested,and it seemed as if problem was sorted,but no...spoiler keeps coming back up,speedometer not working,but then now and again,it works fine.Yesterday I went out in it,spoiler up and no speedometer,then I went shopping for a couple of hours,when I came back and started car spoiler went back down,speedometer working but after 1/2 a mile spoiler came up as I was driving and speedometer out again.Really frustrating.Back home we could slowly put spoiler back down by pressing contact when turning power on and off,any idea what else could be wrong,Thanks for helping out