Hi again the mechanic is here and he said it’s showing a lot of codes from
the transmission to the fuel pump and a bunch in between them he offered to buy my car. Joking it seemed but who knows he also said it’s like any Chrysler but is it? He said the keyfob has nothing to do with the anti theft or starting it. That it only shuts down the fuel pump. He’s been working on it an hour and no news yet. Seem okay to anyone?

Hi my car will not start. I drove it about 900 miles straight then parked it and maybe something was left on maybe not but it will not try to start now. All lights are on but it does not crank just nothing.
So disconnected one cable from the battery (the red one) couple days later reconnected it put cables on it to try and jump it. This time it tried to start the first two times then nothing again. It’s seemed like it was going to start so we waited longer for the jumper things to charge but still nothing. Any ideas? Do I have to have it towed in to the dealer m? Is my battery maybe dead? Wouldn’t jumping it make it start then?
oh this may it may not have anything to do with it but the key fob would not work the doors so I used the key to get in and replaced the battery in the fob. But now I have both keys one works the doors one does not

 

I would check the solder connections on the relay control module (RCM) . There are several threads about that issue as well as a sticky. Never take your car to a dealer.

 

Replaced the battery it will start and immediately stop 3 times then nothing until I take the cables off again then 3 more starts that stop immediately

 

That sounds like a SKREEM issue.

 

Maggie Will check the Skreem issue next I reckon not sure how to do any of this and I lose the posts I have ADHD and this makes it hard for me to complete tasks

 

The SKREEM is not telling the ECM to start the car. THe three starts and nothing is a diagnostic put in the software so you can tell what is going on.

SO, either the SKREEM is bad OR the SKREEM is good but it can't read the RFID chip in the key, because the RFID chip is bad or missing.
The chips do not likely go bad, so unless you tampered with your key FOB or changed the FOB, I'd say you need a SKREEM.

There SHOULD be a message in the odometer window, "Start Error" (or something like that) when this occurs but most never mention it.
In any event, this is not an easy one to prove without ordering a SKREEM and putting it in - to see if that fixes it. Problem is, the SKREEM is now a $700 part.

If you have the car towed to a dealer, the cost of this will rise to at least $1000, perhaps way more, as they blunder and stumble and try to diagnose what they do not understand.

 

I soldered that RCM and put it back in and now the dash lights will not go out, there stay on but dim even with no key in it. I had to disconnect the battery to make those go out. Now I guess I call the dealer or a shop would be best I guess

 

Hi pizzaguy,
My first keybob was taken apart for a couple of weeks so I guess the chip could have gotten lost, and the second key I was using is a very old one. The car started all the way up three times but then immediately stalled out like the gas isn’t getting to it or something.well I think I soldered the RCM but it got really hot in the end and I think I ruined that since now the dash lights won’t go out unless I take the cable off the battery. I figured I shorted something out and I better not leave it like that long. So I disconnected the battery pretty fast and ordered a new one off amazon. Once that comes I reckon I will put that in and see what happens. There’s nothing reading in the odometer area. I’m not sure what you mean by put in the software?? Also
on the RCM the one wire spool thing in the end had a really black spot on it so I cleaned that off but it was really black.

 

Can you tell me how I would know if the fob was bad? The red panic area on the key is worn away. The click thing that used to click in the red area is gone also. I have a second key but it won’t work now either. The dash lights only go off if I turn them on now

 

My original OEM fobs had the red panic buttons worn away too. Dried out and crumbling. I bought two replacement fob cases from amazon or ebay for $10 or so planning to swap out the internals. BUT, I found the remaining outter section of the red button on the original OEM fob came off easily with an exacto blade tip. I took the good panic buttons from the new knockoff fobs off and pressed them on the original OEM fobs an "Bazinga!" I have decent looking almost good a new 15 year old OEM fobs.

 

That’s a good idea but I think I might need go get a new key and a Skreem thing and I don’t know I’m going to try jumping it now. I put a new RCM with in it thinking that would at least make the dash lights go out I’m not sure what happened anymore

 

The way it is giving you three tries and then nothing (until you disconnect and reconnect the battery) is a routine built into the SKREEM/ECM that tells you that the ECM is not being told it is OK to start.

This means the SKREEM is not telling the ECM to start.

This is either a bad SKREEM, or a bad RFID in your key or a bad 'antenna ring' around the key.

Unfortunately, this is not easy to diagnose. If you have not messed with the key and lost the RFID chip, it is almost certainly the SKREEM module. You can get one of those from Rob at Needswings for around $700.

 

Keep in mind I am not standing by your car, I have little more than your post to go on.

Let's look at this:

So no crank, nothing, but lights came on. So battery was not DEAD, might have been weak but not dead. A very weak battery in these cars will prohibit the pulse module from engaging the starter at all. But it COULD have been a bad RCM solder point, etc.

At this point, the starter engages but we get the "Bad SKREEM" symptom. So the SKREEM was ok, until this point. Sounds like the act of putting the jumper cables on blew the SKREEM - we have seen this before. Ok, so now the starter engages, now we know the RCM was fine and the no crank was due to a very low battery.

The door lock/unlock is in the SKREEM as well. With one FoB working and one not, sounds like the rolling code in the SKREEM for one key has changed, you can probalby reprogram the buttons in that FOB using the procedure - but that won't make the car start. This is a distraction, once you put a new SKREEM in, you can program both Key FOBs to lock/unlock the doors, it's easy, takes 30 seconds per key.

I really think you blew the SKREEM when you jumped the car. Again, I was not there, but from what you have typed here, that is what I think.

The replacement of the SKREEM is simple - it plugs in. But it's not easy: You gotta take the lower part of the dash loose, then pop the instrument panel out, the SKREEM sits behind the speedometer. Not as bad as it sounds - the worst part is the $700 for the SKREEM.

If BOTH keys cause a "three tries and nothing" , then it's the SKREEM. IF you find that one key starts the car and the other does not, well, you have a bad RFID chip in one of the keys. Disconnect the battery and reconnect it and try one key. If it starts and dies, try the other key. IF it starts and dies, you need SKREEM.

Don't disconnect/connect the battery and get three tries too many times - rumor has it the ECM will self destruct after so many tries. Then you need a $1500 ECM as well.

 

Thank you so much for breaking it down for me pizza guy. I really do have ADHD and have a hard time following what happened and trying to put it down. So this was a big help. I just tried to jump the car. It cranked one time then nothing else. But since I was in there I figured I would try to make the keyfob work so I double clicked the open button and put it in and turned it on it flashed the turn signals twice and then I tried to start it again nothing but it did lock the car and unlock the car and the red light is flashing for the tow away thing I think it is. But the keyfob will not unlock the car now. I didn’t mess with the keyfob that has the red panic button missing I wasn’t sure if that would mess things up worse than I already have. I truly appreciate all your help and the help of everyone else.
should I order a Skreem? I’m game to try to take it apart and try to fix it. I am willing and have a son nearby if I get too stuck.

 

Hi again I think I didn’t say things very well as I’ve been posting. When the car started the three times it was connected to the other car that was trying to jump it it wouldn’t ever start or crank on its own since it quit. Then we took off the cables and it would try to start three more times but only connected to the jumper car. Sorry I wasn’t more clear before and now I thought that might make a difference. Also I ordered and put in a new RCM so I’m not sure if it was bad at some point but I think I messed it up when I soldered it. So I replaced it.

 

SOunds like the battery is low - so it wont' engage the starter.
And when connected to a strong battery - it is doing the "three and nothing", sign of a blown SKREEM.


If you changed the SKREEM and got it to start, you may find that the battery is also bad, or there is a current drain with the car off -but that's minor compared to a blown SKREEM.

 

The battery was okay it was a new deep cycle battery (whatever that means) until I killed it when the dash lights wouldn’t turn off no matter what even when the keys were taken out. They still stay on when the lights are in the off spot and turn off when they are in the on spot. Weird

 

Did you check if you have water in the rear lower compartment (below the Styrofoam inserts under the rear carpet)? There is two rubber plugs under the rear compartment from under the car, stick a phillips screwdriver into the center of the right plug until it punctures that plug. If water comes out, you have a flooded locking module. Come back in to tell us if that right side is flooded. Good luck!

.

 

Also FYI, you said you disconnected and reconnected the red cable from the battery. NEVER ever disconnect and reconnect the positive (+) side if the battery. Always do the negative (-) side first so you don't short or spike the electrical connection. This causes all kinds of problems with computer modules.

 

I sure hope that’s not what happened to it.