Ok, here are the other part numbers listed under the Valeo logo:
SG12B023
2542319E
105121615
What am I trying to determine whether to see if it is repairable or the correct replacement alternator?

 

Frankly if it was me then I would get a rebuilt one for the Crossfire, it could be a Bosch which appears to have been the original brand on all the NAs. Valeo was used on the SRTs. It is quite possible that some NAs were fitted with Valeos though, it is also possible that this is a replacement on your car. Whatever you get it must have the correct pulley, the correct electrical connections and the correct mounting points.
I will attach a chart that lists the Valeo part numbers, it also refers to the Bosch alternators that the Valeo alternator replaces, so you have the correct Bosch and Valeo part numbers.
You will see that your parts number is referenced in the chart. Valeo alternators for the Crossfires. CLICK

 

I'd just take it somewhere and let them rebuild it. That way, you have no fit issues. I replaced my Valeo with a Valeo and the plastic housing around the B+ lug was different, had to struggle and cut the plastic to get the lug on.

Two months later, it died, got a free replacement - this one just went right it - the plastic housing was the same as the original.

If you can do without the car for a few days, let someone (who is known for good work, not cheap work) rebuild it.

 

Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated!

I just spoke with the alternator shop and its free to have it checked out so I am going to start there. I will let you know the out come; fixable or replace.

180, its the original alternator as I am the only owner and this is the first issue I have had with it.

 

SO, um, how many miles did it go?

 

You know sometimes it is as simple as cleaning your battery terminals. Corrosion will cause some of these symptoms... Check all connections clean as needed, make sure they are tight.

 

I have 24,500 and change on the odometer...not my daily driver!

Battery connections are all clean and good to go, just put in a new battery in conjunction with trying to resolve this issue.

Dropped the alternator off at the repair shop this AM and bench test reveals a steady draw...will know more later when they finish the diagnosis/repair. Will let you know what the internal alt issue was and the cost to repair.

 

Ok, get the damn thing fixed and get to the Dragon, with you, me and Erzer there, we will have three SEs !!!!

(Erzer is driving from Missouri, so don't tell me it's too far for YOU!


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...oct-1-2-a.html

 

Quick update on the Alt repair...parts did not come in today so it looks like it will be Monday at the earliest before I get it back.

Here is a pic of the back of the Alt with the part numbers; they are slightly different than the ones that are posted in this thread for the NAs:

 

This is the same alternator that was on my 05 na , I ordered a brand-new one from rock auto for 279.00 with Free shipping, solved all my issues and the car runs great ! 😀

 

I got one for my 07 SE at NAPA for $212 and it was here in four hours. But then, my local NAPA is 60 miles from their Atlanta warehouse...........


The replacement failed in three months and NAPA gave me a free replacement - that was almost a year ago. Fine so far, and now I can say that I've changed a Crossfire's alternator twice myself.

 

Here is an update on my alternator issue...the Valeo was beyond repair; rectifier and diodes all fried. The repair shop ordered a new alt and it arrived this past Monday. We have had rain on and off since then but this evening it was dry enough to install the new alt.

It is a Bosch and I thought that I was going to have potentially use a dremel to modify the back. But with one small mod, used the nut on B2 post to raise the contact point on the B1 post so that the odd shaped battery cable connector would have a solid contact. After starting the two mounting bolts I tried to attach the battery cable but could not turn it enough to get to slip on the post. I removed the bottom mounting bolt and with the alt pushed to the wheel well the cable went in to place. Once the cable was connected it was easy enough to get the bottom bolt threaded. Connected the small single wire harness and reinstalled the drive belt. Started up and producing 14.2 volts at idle. All is good again!

Thanks to all for your help!

 

BTW, that 14.2 volts at idle should drop back to about 13.8 once the battery is fully charged.
Thanks for the detailed description !

 

What is the number of the one you put in? That will help us to not use the same one as it is obviously not the correct one somehow.
Did it come with a pulley?